Choose the right combination of blade/rubbers

[mattia]

Hello everyone, I wanted to ask for advice regarding the combination of blade and rubbers to use. I'm a beginner and started about two months ago, I joined a table tennis club and one of the coaches told me I couldn't progress without a suitable racket and offered to make one for me. He glued a Chinese Loki Kirin 5 blade with 2 Donic Desto F4 (2.0mm Forehand, 1.8mm Backhand) for me. After the initial difficulties in using a custom racket, I calibrated power and movements and began to progress. However, I started having problems with the racket as the FL handle was bothering my hand. So, I took a Stiga Allround Classic ST frame and mounted Yasaka Mark V tires. Result: all the balls in the net and difficulty in getting over it. Just for fun, I took up the old racket and... surprise, all the balls inside the table. So thinking it was the rubbers, I mounted the Donic Desto F4 on the Stiga frame. Situation improved but still most of the balls in the net. I then think that the problem is the frame and switch to a Stiga Offensive Classic. Same feeling as the Kirin, all the balls inside and some out. So I start recording the training sessions to watch myself and improve the movement and notice with the coach that I don't close the movements, I always stop them halfway. Explanation: frame and tire combo too fast and to control I stop earlier. What do you advise me? To go back to the Stiga Allround frame with the Yasaka Mark V and focus on the movement to close it, or to continue with the Stiga Offensive with the Desto F4? My fear is that continuing with tensioned rubbers and an offensive frame I may learn wrong movements to control the power. At the same time, I'm afraid that getting used to a slow frame with classic (outdated?) rubbers like the Mark V will make it difficult when I’ll improve and I’ll need to switch to tensioned rubbers.

 

[Gozo Aruna]

1. Stiga All Round or Stiga in general in my memory tend to has more flex and hence is very suitable to play using hard tacky chinese rubber like H2 / neoH3. If you have the ability or have training to do chinese style looping, then go ahead.

2. But I am not a fan of chinese rubber nor have I been trained to do chinese style loopinng: so I personally prefer a stiffer iteration. In my mind, Tibhar Stratus Powerwood with two sheets of Donic Baracuda seems like an ideal combination as noob friendly starter kit.

3. Or, Butterfly Petr Korbel with two sheets of Rozena, that is also a doable set-up, especially if one is brand conscious.

4. Mark V is a poor choice. It may be useful during the era of small diameter ball or use in conjunction with speed-glue. If none of these, avoid it like the plague. ( my personal opinion ). I have used Mark V before and it is just yuck!

 

[NetProphet]

Every blade and rubber combo will play differently and the problem you had with the Mark V is that they're not sticky Chinese rubbers so they need a different bat angle and 'touch' for most shots but (apart from not suiting your current technique) there is nothing wrong with learning for 6-12 mths with a Mark V bat. Many beginners use them and do really well with them for the first year.
But there's nothing wrong with the Kirin and Chinese rubbers either.
I would sand/shave down the flared handle, it's pretty easy and I've done this on a few blades myself.
Regarding the half strokes and your 'under compensating' for the racket you have to either (a) persevere and learn the stroke properly. Get your coach and a robot and go at it, those Donic rubbers on that blade should not be uncontrollable. Or
(B) Commit to the Mark V for 4 or 5 months and learn correct technique with them.
It should be possible on either racket so it's just whatever works for you.
Moving from mark V to Chinese or other rubbers should not be a problem in 6 mths and you'll manage it fairly quickly as (with proper coaching and practice) you'll be a much better player by then!
In the meantime relax and enjoy yourself!! 😊👍

 

[mocker88]

I think you should stay with the Kirin 5 or the Stiga Classic blade and use non-tensor rubbers to learn the technique properly. There are no shortcuts in this sport, so start slow with a setup that you feel that you have control in all situations. In both offensive and defensive. Mark V should be a great start or any, more basic Chinese rubbers that aren't too hard, fast or grippy.

The thing with learning the technique is that you should work with your whole arm and body to make all strokes, and that's why it's good to have slower non-tensor rubbers to start with so you can put in sufficient power for all strokes and have good control when you're under pressure from your opponent.

 

[vossi39]

First of all. The choice of your blade is the most difficult but most important decision you need to make. So the blade needs to be

1. In the All, All+, Off- range for a beginner
2. Feel nice if you take in your hand. As soon as you notice any kind of discomfort, look for another blade
3. Need to give you enough feedback, where you hit the ball. If you can not decide if you hit the ball close to the top or more towards the handle, look for another blade
4. Suite your preferences with respect to stiffness or flex (usually the thicker the blade, the stiffer it gets). Try different thickness and see what you like best.

You can do this, by trying different blades in your club. Ask your club mates for short drive of their weapons (5 minutes will do the job). Concentrate on the 4 topics above and not on how well your strokes are.

Once you have found the right blade, it comes down to finding the right rubbers for this blade.
The difference between a Mark V and a Desto F4 are huuuuge. (Hardness and catapult are totally different).

Your coach gave you a soft rubber, because it makes learning a bit easier, but sometimes it takes away the feeling for the ball and you might be one, that is better off with a rubber with a firmer sponge. I would suggest to try something like Xiom Intro, Nittaku Factive, which is similar to your Mark V hardness, but with a bit of catapult support from the F4. So kind of best of both worlds.