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says toooooo much choice!!
says toooooo much choice!!
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I don't even think there is a 5 ply vs Carbon debate seriously anymore with the new plastic ball. The debate is really whether one should learn TT with a really fast blade and what it means to be a really stiff and fast blade. That's why I brought in the blade frequency chart to take the subjectivity out of it. Unless you are playing a smash/hitting style, anything above 1600Hz is definitely insane, and if you are a beginner anything above 1400Hz or even 1300Hz might be a bit much, absolute beginners should be closer to 1100Hz. It isn't just about All Wood, after all, a 1-ply hinoki is all wood, it is about what a reasonable things to use to build your game. Viscaria, especially the older slower ones, are very reasonable blades, more so with the plastic ball. 1-ply hinoki is closer to Garaydia T-5000/Schlager Carbon than to Viscaria.
1100Hz is a rocket launcher compared to my SDC 7+2 ply blade, which is rated at around 980Hz!!!
I have a TAMCA 5000, with the old smaller celluloid balls and Sriver I could handle the speed.
I think that even though the ball is bigger, and spin is (supposedly) less. It’s the modern rubbers that contribute more to the speed nowadays, spring sponges etc.
The reason I say this is because when I started playing again and stuck on a couple of sheets of Mantra M, it was too fast for me!!
 
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1100Hz is a rocket launcher compared to my SDC 7+2 ply blade, which is rated at around 980Hz!!!
I have a TAMCA 5000, with the old smaller celluloid balls and Sriver I could handle the speed.
I think that even though the ball is bigger, and spin is (supposedly) less. It’s the modern rubbers that contribute more to the speed nowadays, spring sponges etc.
The reason I say this is because when I started playing again and stuck on a couple of sheets of Mantra M, it was too fast for me!!
And what and how did you measure the frequency of the blade? Maybe a measurement error?
 
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Sergio, the blade maker (SDC blades) takes frequency measurements of all his blades. How he does it ??? You can see his blades on the forum. He posts regularly.
AAAA, got it. By the way, you can also do it yourself using the application for your phone. I measured all my blades, but I'm not sure about the correct method, since one blade has a pronounced single frequency peak, and the other can have one large peak, and the second is smaller nearby, how to interpret this?
 
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says toooooo much choice!!
says toooooo much choice!!
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And what and how did you measure the frequency of the blade? Maybe a measurement error?
I asked for DEF rated blade with carbon to try and increase the sweet spot, not speed.

The TAMCA 5000 was I believe BTY’s 1st carbon blade. It was marketed as a fast blade with an increased sweet spot as well.
 
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I asked for DEF rated blade with carbon to try and increase the sweet spot, not speed.

The TAMCA 5000 was I believe BTY’s 1st carbon blade. It was marketed as a fast blade with an increased sweet spot as well.
Tamca 5000 is the carbon in Butterfly Carbon blades. It is in many of their blades including the Primorac Carbon, Gergely, anything labelled T5000, and just about anything with the Carbon label that doesn't have another fiber (in those, it is woven with another fiber).
 
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AAAA, got it. By the way, you can also do it yourself using the application for your phone. I measured all my blades, but I'm not sure about the correct method, since one blade has a pronounced single frequency peak, and the other can have one large peak, and the second is smaller nearby, how to interpret this?
Take the highest peak, as that is the peak that we are most interested in for this exercise. There are other things that we probably can and should measure for understanding blade properties, but that would require some more investigation that some people have done, but I haven't deeply studied the importance of all those other nodes/frequencies.
 
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says toooooo much choice!!
says toooooo much choice!!
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Tamca 5000 is the carbon in Butterfly Carbon blades. It is in many of their blades including the Primorac Carbon, Gergely, anything labelled T5000, and just about anything with the Carbon label that doesn't have another fiber (in those, it is woven with another fiber).
Tamca 5000 was the name of the blade as well.
 
says toooooo much choice!!
says toooooo much choice!!
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Battle warn!!!
 
says Spin and more spin.
says Spin and more spin.
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I agree, when there was a celluloid ball, I played with a five-ply Stiga Tube Allround blade for a long time. When I trained a lot, I switched to a five-layer Stiga Tube Off blade and that was enough for me, now I can’t live without carbon :geek:
Those Tube All and Tube Off blades really felt great. But, yeah, these days, with the 40+ Poly ball, they are not quite fast enough for a player who is at a decent level.
 
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says Looking for a bat that makes me faster
says Looking for a bat that makes me faster
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Oh guys, I forget to mention, when I am doing stroke I can loop with nice trajectory but when it comes to match, I somehow flat slap the ball.

What is wrong? Any TT doctor in the house can diagnose this problem?
Almost 100% mental. Rushing to finish the point with a winner, either too excited or afraid that the ball might come back. Footwork and positioning can also contribute; people tend to go all out when they are out of position.

I once received advice from a really good player: "80% power/speed is all you need, better focus on recovery instead of overswing for a winner."
 
says Spin and more spin.
says Spin and more spin.
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Oh guys, I forget to mention, when I am doing stroke I can loop with nice trajectory but when it comes to match, I somehow flat slap the ball.

What is wrong? Any TT doctor in the house can diagnose this problem?
I think you have heard this before: when you being fed the ball by your coach, he is giving you good quality balls to loop and you are able to predict where the ball is going. The ball is being fed to you.

In match play, does the opponent try to hit the ball perfectly to your FH with the perfect amount of topspin for you to loop the ball? Or does the opponent try to give you awkward shots so it is hard for you to return them?

In one of your more recent videos, from that tournament, I was looking at your recovery after your serve. On at least one of them, you served, you watched your serve go over the net to the other side, you watched your opponent return (it was a push that was high and long to your FH). When the opponent was making contact on his return, you were still holding your racket with the grip for the serve. You were not ready at all. You did not recover to a position to be able to make a shot on the THIRD BALL. The push was high and to your FH, it was fairly deep. You backed up and backed up and moved towards your FH side in a BH stance. And you pushed the ball with your BH, all the way on the FH side, 2-3 feet behind the table.

The ball was high, the ball was slow, it was a push, it came way off the table, it was to your FH, and you pushed back with your BH. Even with terrible recovery to a neutral position after the serve, this ball was slow and high enough for you to have had the time to move into position and attack with your FH. But you were not perpared for the ball to come back at all. And if you are not prepared for the ball to come back and you are not in a ready position, it is pretty hard to loop. :)

Without being ready to loop, you cannot expect to be able to loop.
 
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Oh guys, I forget to mention, when I am doing stroke I can loop with nice trajectory but when it comes to match, I somehow flat slap the ball.

What is wrong? Any TT doctor in the house can diagnose this problem?
Without video, the only person who can help you is someone watching, especially if he is your coach. Carl and Hcl have given great answers but if you have the video, you can get better answers and often even figure it out yourself.
 
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says Spin and more spin.
says Spin and more spin.
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In the previous post I am talking about this video:


And Here: The point I am talking about begins with your serve at the 6:10 time on the video:

First screen grab: You are clearly still holding the racket with the grip from the serve while opponent is pushing:

Screen Shot 2023-03-22 at 9.25.17 PM.png


You have moved all the way to the FH side and back a few steps, and even though you are taking the ball with the BH, your racket is at least a foot to the FH side of your switching point so your racket is well to the RIGHT (FH Side) of your body while you are pushing with your BH.
Screen Shot 2023-03-22 at 9.25.44 PM.png


It is very hard to loop with FH like this. :)

Technically, your grip should be fully changed to a grip for any stroke (not serve) before your ball bounces on your opponent's side. If you are still holding with the serve grip while your opponent is making his shot, you have not reset or recovered and that will make you late to read and handle his return.

Also, if you want to judge how far to the right you moved, the tall guy with the blue shirt, yellow logo, and red & white pattern at the bottom with the glasses, he seems to be on your FH side after the serve and on your BH side as you are taking that push.
 
says Making a beautiful shot is most important; winning is...
says Making a beautiful shot is most important; winning is...
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Almost 100% mental. Rushing to finish the point with a winner, either too excited or afraid that the ball might come back. Footwork and positioning can also contribute; people tend to go all out when they are out of position.

I once received advice from a really good player: "80% power/speed is all you need, better focus on recovery instead of overswing for a winner."
Yeah, you are right, it is a mental / habit thing. It is not like I cannot FH topspin / loop. It is just I can't do it when under pressure during match play where my opponent is making things hard for me. It is something I need to practice and mentally remind myself.
 

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Oh guys, I forget to mention, when I am doing stroke I can loop with nice trajectory but when it comes to match, I somehow flat slap the ball.

What is wrong? Any TT doctor in the house can diagnose this problem?
imo it's bc you are thinking to hit the ball hard, with power. you want to loop but like a loop kill. this thought in your brain makes your muscles tense up and you lose the timing and fine motor control need to actually make a nice, safe, spinny loop.

try only looking at the ball and spinning it, without crushing it, might help
 
says Spin and more spin.
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Yeah, you are right, it is a mental / habit thing. It is not like I cannot FH topspin / loop. It is just I can't do it when under pressure during match play where my opponent is making things hard for me. It is something I need to practice and mentally remind myself.
You would need to practice it during game simulation, but the first thing you need to practice is being reset way way way way sooner.
 
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Oh guys, I forget to mention, when I am doing stroke I can loop with nice trajectory but when it comes to match, I somehow flat slap the ball.

What is wrong? Any TT doctor in the house can diagnose this problem?

Judging by what Carl said, you probably don't practice game points and don't have a plan for the point either. Practice some common game points where you should loop the ball.

A common point that almost everyone sees is, you serve, they push to the middle, you forehand loop. Do this 1000 times, or until it becomes your default response that you don't have to think about. Then you will just do the loop out of habit.

//////////////////

I just saw the vid that Carl posted now. You've likely done serve push push for so long it's become a habit and you don't trust yourself to serve and then loop right away.

To build trust, you need to do it until it becomes mostly successful (competence builds confidence). Then you need to think about it before you serve so you remember to use this training. If you repeat this a lot, you'll eventually even be able to do this unplanned.
 
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