Looks beautiful! 186 grams is an excellent weight, ideal for me. But don't expect too much right away. Inflated expectations provoke disappointment. This is just a tool for you to use.
Should I peel off the cover sheet from the top sheet when glue on the blade? Or it can stay and before cutting the rubber may be peeled off?
Hi TTD Community and DHS Fans,
I need your help!!!
I am going to unpack my brand new fresh DHS H3 Neo Prov rubbers and finally use them
2 things, had a bad start with my 1st attempt of Chinese rubber STN BS so I'm totally newbie in that matter. I'm from those who would like to be well prepared and do something later not earlier and to not correct it in couple of days.
Boosting and gluing chinese rubbers is the long term process so as mentioned above would like to do and 1st attempt good, to not re-glue it or something.
as for FH rubber this is H3 Neo BS Prov 2.1mm 40* hardness. At first I will put 1 layer of glue, waiting until it dries and 1st layer of Seamoon Standard booster. Will leave it for 24 hours and tomorrow I'm going to put 2nd layer of booster, wait next 24 hours, and then 3rd layer, wait 12-24 hours, layer of glue and on to the blade.
as for BH (and for this one I'm not sure because H3 is not commonly used on BH) this is H3 Neo OS Prov 2.1mm 37* hardness. I would the same operation as above for FH BS rubbers, but not sure how many layers of booster should apply? Is 3 layers not to much? Maybe I should do only 1 or max 2 layers?
Ahh and the blade will be Joola Freeze HRD, structure is the same as Viscaria, outer layer alc, and stiff Koto on top.
Your advice will be much appreciated. Please feel free to correct both FH and BH process described above.
Thanks in advance!
What exactly are the (dis-) advantages of taking off the plastic sheet while glueing, boosting and cutting?I peel it off before glueing, esp. if boosted, to reduce the tension. And I cut the shape from the cover sheet (with some overlap) and put it on, when clean/dry.
If you leave the plastic on then the topsheet is not able to stretch.What exactly are the (dis-) advantages of taking off the plastic sheet while glueing, boosting and cutting?
I kept it on for boosted R9, peeled it off from the boosted H3.
Does it change the playing characteristics?
I am boosting a Battle 3 and the cover is still on so far.
Good one ye . Glad you found the setup that works for you. It is a great feeling whenever that happens.In short…. I’m in love with this setup. I don’t how we one can say that STN vs H3 Neo BS has something in common. Maybe black topsheet and blue sponge😉
These are completely different rubbers or maybe I like @lodro (with his rxton 9) have something kind of exception among other STNs.
Even my trainer after training session was surprised how fast I can adjust to it and it was not bad bs the setup which I was playing longer and know well.
As for FH amazing spin and speed when increased power. Feel and placement where I wanted with low/mid power.
37 deg on bh was also good I have quite powerful bh so i had no problem to generate a o lot of spin and speed from bh. My main problem was/is consistency but it’s the same with other rubbers. But I started to be always in front of the ball, work with my freehand and work with my thumb and pointing finger also which indeed helps.
Joola Freeze HRD amazing blade.
As I said I’m in love in this setup. Taking into account Sales weekend on Ali I ordered 5x DHS h3 Neo to have a backup
There's a saying around here:Hi TT lovers!
I'm just wondering how you handle the situation when the boosting effect disappear from your H3 on your primary blade and you need to repeat the process which takes at least 2-3 days taking into account how many layers you are planning to put and the time required for sinking in.
Do you have 2nd rubber which is ready to use to replace the current one, and then repeat the process again w/o delaying usage of primary blade.
Or you use 2nd blade (training blade, other blade) until you main one will be ready.
Just asked those who boost and will still boost. I know that few of you h3 users look for alternative rubbers which do not require boosting and play similar to H3 due to boosting process and all those dis. around the process.
I'm just curios how you deal with it.
@latejI tried the Polestar P on a guy's racket, I just forgot to tell. It's pretty much like a very nicely boosted H3N OS. Maybe even prov or national grade too. I guess the price is around provincial H3N OS so maybe it's a good bet since no one will fake DF rubbers. I really can't say much more about it than this. Maybe the topsheet is a bit softer than H3 but it felt to catch the ball better and maybe even spin the ball better on opening loops.
It's surprisingly fast too.
The guy said it had the glue layer out of the pack so very comparable to H3N.
It will not disappear in a few days especially if you don't remove the glue from the sponge. If you remove the glue the booster will evaporate faster.Does the boosting effect disappear after removing the rubber from the blade a couple days after boosting?
Or does it stay for some time, no matter how many times we glue or remove it.