DHS fans unite!

[Egon]

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It's a nice, sunny day for you. It's cloudy and cloudy here

 

[Tony's Table Tennis]

Should I peel off the cover sheet from the top sheet when glue on the blade? Or it can stay and before cutting the rubber may be peeled off?

some people will take it off before boosting

 

[disaster3]

some people will take it off before boosting

I guess that probably it allows more to stretch the sponge. Cover can keep it somehow

 

[Tony's Table Tennis]

I guess that probably it allows more to stretch the sponge. Cover can keep it somehow

correct.
but many do keep it on,

 

[disaster3]

Ok, finally ready 😃
New toy for a big boys!!🤣😉
Tomorrow will be checked in action on training session with my coach, I hope I will not hurt myself 🤣

Probably 2-3g less in weight w/o covers.

 

[Egon]

Ok, finally ready 😃
New toy for a big boys!!🤣😉
Tomorrow will be checked in action on training session with my coach, I hope I will not hurt myself 🤣
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Probably 2-3g less in weight w/o covers.

Looks beautiful! 186 grams is an excellent weight, ideal for me. But don't expect too much right away. Inflated expectations provoke disappointment. This is just a tool for you to use.

 

[latej]

Should I peel off the cover sheet from the top sheet when glue on the blade? Or it can stay and before cutting the rubber may be peeled off?

I peel it off before glueing, esp. if boosted, to reduce the tension. And I cut the shape from the cover sheet (with some overlap) and put it on, when clean/dry.

Edit: Didn't read all the posts before. If I did, I'd not post ;-)

 

[jammmail]

That looks class @disaster3 - the Joola Freeze HRD seems interesting too - a Viscaria style blade?

DHS pros How long would you expect that level of boost to last with that kind of curl? Is it better to think in playing hours or time passed?

 

[jammmail]

Hi TTD Community and DHS Fans,

I need your help!!!
I am going to unpack my brand new fresh DHS H3 Neo Prov rubbers and finally use them
2 things, had a bad start with my 1st attempt of Chinese rubber STN BS so I'm totally newbie in that matter. I'm from those who would like to be well prepared and do something later not earlier and to not correct it in couple of days.
Boosting and gluing chinese rubbers is the long term process so as mentioned above would like to do and 1st attempt good, to not re-glue it or something.

as for FH rubber this is H3 Neo BS Prov 2.1mm 40* hardness. At first I will put 1 layer of glue, waiting until it dries and 1st layer of Seamoon Standard booster. Will leave it for 24 hours and tomorrow I'm going to put 2nd layer of booster, wait next 24 hours, and then 3rd layer, wait 12-24 hours, layer of glue and on to the blade.

as for BH (and for this one I'm not sure because H3 is not commonly used on BH) this is H3 Neo OS Prov 2.1mm 37* hardness. I would the same operation as above for FH BS rubbers, but not sure how many layers of booster should apply? Is 3 layers not to much? Maybe I should do only 1 or max 2 layers?

Ahh and the blade will be Joola Freeze HRD, structure is the same as Viscaria, outer layer alc, and stiff Koto on top.

Your advice will be much appreciated. Please feel free to correct both FH and BH process described above.

Thanks in advance!

Did you put a layer of glue on the neo glue layer before boosting? Or take that off then a layer? I think on one of TT11 videos they take it off to put the booster on i seem to remember.

 

[Emin]

I peel it off before glueing, esp. if boosted, to reduce the tension. And I cut the shape from the cover sheet (with some overlap) and put it on, when clean/dry.

What exactly are the (dis-) advantages of taking off the plastic sheet while glueing, boosting and cutting?
I kept it on for boosted R9, peeled it off from the boosted H3.
Does it change the playing characteristics?
I am boosting a Battle 3 and the cover is still on so far.

 

[Zwill]

What exactly are the (dis-) advantages of taking off the plastic sheet while glueing, boosting and cutting?
I kept it on for boosted R9, peeled it off from the boosted H3.
Does it change the playing characteristics?
I am boosting a Battle 3 and the cover is still on so far.

If you leave the plastic on then the topsheet is not able to stretch.

Shouldn't worry too much about the foil so much tbh. Nor the neo layer, leave it on, or remove... Remove and add a layer of glue... Just brush seamon directly on the sponge... All are OK ways.
I boost on the neo when new. If I reboost I remove all glue then add a layer of glue and then add booster.

Some say boosting lasts longer if there's a layer of glue on the sponge and H3 BS will be less prone to bubble.
I see Chinese add a layer of glue and then boost. Since they use millions of sheets they should know better so I copy them recently.

But I don't think it matters too much in the end.

 

[disaster3]

@jammmail i can’t answer your questions because I don’t know. I’m new with dhs h3 neo this would be the first attempt with completely new blade, too😂🤣 seems like approaching disaster 🤣😁👌
but I’m playing FZd ALC (Viscaria clone blade) and I like it With D09C on FH which I like it much, going forward I’m not expecting significant difference or maybe?🤔
as advised this was brand new H3 neo bs. Which is factory boosted. 1 seamoon layer domed it much. I don’t know how long boosting effect will last but if after a month (if it suits me) will spot decrease in performance will peel it off and boost again and then maybe 2 layers.
No I didn’t take factory layer off. I put dhs #15 directly, was waiting after it dries and 1st layer of booster.after 24 hrs put fresh layer of glue on the rubber and blade and put all together.

 

[disaster3]

In short…. I’m in love with this setup. I don’t how we one can say that STN vs H3 Neo BS has something in common. Maybe black topsheet and blue sponge😉
These are completely different rubbers or maybe I like @lodro (with his rxton 9) have something kind of exception among other STNs.
Even my trainer after training session was surprised how fast I can adjust to it and it was not bad bs the setup which I was playing longer and know well.
As for FH amazing spin and speed when increased power. Feel and placement where I wanted with low/mid power.
37 deg on bh was also good I have quite powerful bh so i had no problem to generate a o lot of spin and speed from bh. My main problem was/is consistency but it’s the same with other rubbers. But I started to be always in front of the ball, work with my freehand and work with my thumb and pointing finger also which indeed helps.
Joola Freeze HRD amazing blade.
As I said I’m in love in this setup. Taking into account Sales weekend on Ali I ordered 5x DHS h3 Neo to have a backup

 

[lodro]

In short…. I’m in love with this setup. I don’t how we one can say that STN vs H3 Neo BS has something in common. Maybe black topsheet and blue sponge😉
These are completely different rubbers or maybe I like @lodro (with his rxton 9) have something kind of exception among other STNs.
Even my trainer after training session was surprised how fast I can adjust to it and it was not bad bs the setup which I was playing longer and know well.
As for FH amazing spin and speed when increased power. Feel and placement where I wanted with low/mid power.
37 deg on bh was also good I have quite powerful bh so i had no problem to generate a o lot of spin and speed from bh. My main problem was/is consistency but it’s the same with other rubbers. But I started to be always in front of the ball, work with my freehand and work with my thumb and pointing finger also which indeed helps.
Joola Freeze HRD amazing blade.
As I said I’m in love in this setup. Taking into account Sales weekend on Ali I ordered 5x DHS h3 Neo to have a backup

Good one ye . Glad you found the setup that works for you. It is a great feeling whenever that happens.

Or shall I quote the old Cheyenne Chief from the old movie "little big man" :
Magic , sometimes it works and sometimes it does not .

 

[disaster3]

Hi TT lovers!
I'm just wondering how you handle the situation when the boosting effect disappear from your H3 on your primary blade and you need to repeat the process which takes at least 2-3 days taking into account how many layers you are planning to put and the time required for sinking in.
Do you have 2nd rubber which is ready to use to replace the current one, and then repeat the process again w/o delaying usage of primary blade.
Or you use 2nd blade (training blade, other blade) until you main one will be ready.
Just asked those who boost and will still boost. I know that few of you h3 users look for alternative rubbers which do not require boosting and play similar to H3 due to boosting process and all those dis. around the process.
I'm just curios how you deal with it.

 

[Zwill]

Hi TT lovers!
I'm just wondering how you handle the situation when the boosting effect disappear from your H3 on your primary blade and you need to repeat the process which takes at least 2-3 days taking into account how many layers you are planning to put and the time required for sinking in.
Do you have 2nd rubber which is ready to use to replace the current one, and then repeat the process again w/o delaying usage of primary blade.
Or you use 2nd blade (training blade, other blade) until you main one will be ready.
Just asked those who boost and will still boost. I know that few of you h3 users look for alternative rubbers which do not require boosting and play similar to H3 due to boosting process and all those dis. around the process.
I'm just curios how you deal with it.

There's a saying around here:

1 beer = no beer
2 beers = half beer
4 beers = one beer
one beer = no beer

You can apply this to H3.

 

[Emin]

Does the boosting effect disappear after removing the rubber from the blade a couple days after boosting?
Or does it stay for some time, no matter how many times we glue or remove it.

 

[Zwill]

I tried the Polestar P on a guy's racket, I just forgot to tell. It's pretty much like a very nicely boosted H3N OS. Maybe even prov or national grade too. I guess the price is around provincial H3N OS so maybe it's a good bet since no one will fake DF rubbers. I really can't say much more about it than this. Maybe the topsheet is a bit softer than H3 but it felt to catch the ball better and maybe even spin the ball better on opening loops.
It's surprisingly fast too.
The guy said it had the glue layer out of the pack so very comparable to H3N.

@latej
I am now trying a Dianchi D and as far as I can remember the Double Fish Polestar P smelled the same looked the same.
I think they are the same rubber with different logos on them.
But my point about being very similar to H3N OS is still valid.

Out of the pack the Polestar P and the Dianchi D are much nicer than H3N.

 

[Zwill]

Does the boosting effect disappear after removing the rubber from the blade a couple days after boosting?
Or does it stay for some time, no matter how many times we glue or remove it.

It will not disappear in a few days especially if you don't remove the glue from the sponge. If you remove the glue the booster will evaporate faster.
With Big Dipper I noticed before that I removed it from a blade, removed the factory glue and immediately put it back on another blade and the boost was noticeably gone.

 

[disaster3]

Does the boosting effect disappear after removing the rubber from the blade a couple days after boosting?
Or does it stay for some time, no matter how many times we glue or remove it.

this was not the case I asked. Many says that they reboost their rubbers after X time (some repeat it after 3-4 weeks, some after 3-4 months as they mentioned they are lazy and do not want to do it/do not have time to do it until it will be completely dead and will be replaced by the new one.)
Reply to your questions I don't think the effect disappear when you remove rubber from the blade. Booster sinks into the sponge and exists for some time and after X time process should be repeated again.