How to remove the glue from the rubber's sponge?

[Fedex78]

Thanks, I tried this with no success. I ended up using White Spirits but it was a really messes job. It kinda turns the glue into a wet mess so you still need to rub it off with something kinda carefully. It did do a better job than using a ball because the glue is less likely to tear the sponge.

Just don't use Butterfly glue is the conclusion everyone has already rightly landed on.

I'm sorry that it didn't work for you, I applied this method to Gewo Hydrotec glue, I was able to remove the glue without damaging the rubber and in less time than rubbing it off the glue carefully.

 

[Zwill]

Lol. All the trouble to use voc free glue and then acetone or thinner needed to remove it from the rubber 😂

Well yes I agree it defeats the purpose. I genuinely don't advise anyone to buy the German made glues unless they glue their rubber once and only remove once they are worn.

 

[riemsesy]

Well yes I agree it defeats the purpose. I genuinely don't advise anyone to buy the German made glues unless they glue their rubber once and only remove once they are worn.

I see an opportunity for premade paddles.. oh.. that's already a thing ;-)

My first glue was Pimplepark Viscoso Pro Velox. Spreads very evenly and removing was easy.

 

[Kolev]

My experiences so far:
-very difficult to remove glues from boosted sponges
-difficult to remove from soft or porous sponges
-chemicals worsen the removal
-applying boosters doesn't help much the removal
-the more the layers initially the easier to remove
-applying extra layer or 2 may help removing the old glue
-thin glue doesn't necessarily mean easier to remove
-"rubbing off" the glue with a piece of the same sponge is the least harmful to my fingers and the sponge I am cleaning
-do not apply pressure while removing. Repeat gently and have patience
-finally don't remove the glue if you're afraid to harm the sponge cause you'll probably do so
I have tried and still own quite a few glues and the best one to remove so far is the Dandoy's own(made by Falco). The worse experience for me was the DHS#15

 

[BHSlap]

I've tries all sorts of glues, I've yet to successfully remove any from Tenergies without any damage. I don't think it's Butterfly's plan for that to happen since removing glue from Dignics rubbers is very easy.

Just tried a new glue on my Tenergies and the result is the same as the sh1tty Free Chack II. The new glue is Joola Lex which is water latex based. Unfortunately it's also destroying the sponge when coming off. The glue is advertised as being easy to remove!

I even tried adding more layers to make it peel off like you see on the youtube videos, unfortunately it's affinity for the sponge is higher than it's affinity for itself, so it's a mm by mm process.

Apart from that, it dries quickly and seems to come off other rubbers (tibhar) pretty easily. Still waiting on my AliExpress order so I can get away from these German glues.

So maybe my issue is with Butterfly/Tenergy sponges rather than the glues.

 

[Fedex78]

free chack 2 pro is the worst glue ever, it's even difficult to remove with iron, i can't believe butterfly came out with such a bad product

Also i can't believe how good is this sueke glue, I'd hug the inventor of this glue!! 😆

 

[hopper]

FInally, a positive experience:
Having initially applied 2 layers of Donic Blue Contact (thicker type of glue) to assemble the racket, I was able to rub it off gently with top of my finger(s). Though working quite well, after a few minutes of rubbing and a painful blister on top of my finger, I gently used a microfiber cloth instead (also rubbing the surface with one or two fingers inside the cloth). This also turned out to work very well, since the glue kind off rolled up into small balls of glue that could be easily plucked off the surface.
This way it took me about 15 minutes to rub off all the glue without any single damage to the sponge (Rakza 7).

 

[Gaurgle]

Hi!
So, I have this issue.
I had troubles with my FZD ALC, mine just isn't a good particular exemplar, to light.
It has FH D09c, BH D09c on it.
Frustrated, I put on a new BH rubber for a last try, so now it has FH D09c and BH D05.
Unfortunately it didn't help with the perfomance.
So I bought a new blade, a Viscaria Super ALC.

On this new SALC blade I want to put the "old" but very fresh rubbers from the FZD blade.
The FH 09c is glued with BTY Free chack pro 2, and the BH D05 is glued with DHS no15.

After reading this thread my conclusion is that I WILL be able to peel of the old glue on the backhand rubber (D05) but I WILL NOT be able to peel of the forehand rubber (D09c)?

Since the rubbers are so new and fresh (and expensive...) - I do not want to try to remove the glue from the forehand rubber (D09c), but i will peel the glue off from the BH rubber.

I now wonder.. could I just glue the FH D09c on the new blade by just adding more glue?
Doing a regular glueing method with 2 layers on the sponge 1 on the blade, -but now with DHS no15 on top of the old BTY glue?
What will happen? Will it stick? Will the sponge soak up the new glue?
I'm aware it'll get thicker of course. But in my mind I can't see a reason why it wouldn't work.
But could there be any negative downsides by doing this? Else I would feel that I just wasted 90€..



**Disclaimer**
I'm aware that some might think "just work on your technique if you can't handle D09c!" etc..
But trust me, I have another Viscaria that has had both D09c and D05 on backhand, and that blade works like perfectly. No issues!

 

[BHSlap]

Hi!
So, I have this issue.
I had troubles with my FZD ALC, mine just isn't a good particular exemplar, to light.
It has FH D09c, BH D09c on it.
Frustrated, I put on a new BH rubber for a last try, so now it has FH D09c and BH D05.
Unfortunately it didn't help with the perfomance.
So I bought a new blade, a Viscaria Super ALC.

On this new SALC blade I want to put the "old" but very fresh rubbers from the FZD blade.
The FH 09c is glued with BTY Free chack pro 2, and the BH D05 is glued with DHS no15.

After reading this thread my conclusion is that I WILL be able to peel of the old glue on the backhand rubber (D05) but I WILL NOT be able to peel of the forehand rubber (D09c)?

Since the rubbers are so new and fresh (and expensive...) - I do not want to try to remove the glue from the forehand rubber (D09c), but i will peel the glue off from the BH rubber.

I now wonder.. could I just glue the FH D09c on the new blade by just adding more glue?
Doing a regular glueing method with 2 layers on the sponge 1 on the blade, -but now with DHS no15 on top of the old BTY glue?
What will happen? Will it stick? Will the sponge soak up the new glue?
I'm aware it'll get thicker of course. But in my mind I can't see a reason why it wouldn't work.
But could there be any negative downsides by doing this? Else I would feel that I just wasted 90€..



**Disclaimer**
I'm aware that some might think "just work on your technique if you can't handle D09c!" etc..
But trust me, I have another Viscaria that has had both D09c and D05 on backhand, and that blade works like perfectly. No issues!

I wish I had the cuttings from my Tenergy's so I could experiment with what works but it came made up from the place I ordered it (btw, they said it was simple to remove Free Chack II, pack of bullsh1t).

If you still have cuttings from your rubbers I'd experiment on those to see what will work for your combination of rubber and glue. Or if you can get your hands on someone's new cuttings that might be an option to experiment.

If the surface looks smooth when you remove it I think reglueing over the top is the safest option given my recent experience, your experience of glue removal might be better.

Things I've tried on Tenergy -

Free Chack II

1) Rubbing with finger - crap, takes ages, can rip the sponge
2) Rubbing with a ball - crap, takes ages, can rip the sponge but it felt less likely to do so that using a finger
3) Heating up with an iron - no difference at all
4) White Spirits (Solvent) - made the glue into a sticky mess, not convinced it didn't change the playing characteristics of the rubber, easier to remove than without, less likely to rip the sponge.

Joola Lex

Same experience as everything above. It does seem to come off easily by just rubbing on Tibhar sponges that I've tried so far.

I'm keeping all my cuttings from now on to find the right sponge glue combo's. These things are far too expensive to be one use when you're still trying to find a good setup.

 

[7sagittarius7]

I made a comparison of the 4 most famous glues and you can see how easily each of them comes off the sponge. REvolution No.3 was a huge shock to me.

 

[BHSlap]

I made a comparison of the 4 most famous glues and you can see how easily each of them comes off the sponge. REvolution No.3 was a huge shock to me.

Great video! This matches my experience of sitting and slowly slowly peeling away small bits of glue. It would be interesting to see you try it with Tenergies, but that's an expensive experiment.

I wonder if they are such small batches that the quality control on these glues is very low and each batch might be different.

 

[disaster3]

I made a comparison of the 4 most famous glues and you can see how easily each of them comes off the sponge. REvolution No.3 was a huge shock to me.

Based on that I have the similar conclusion. Now I’m using #15 but it is also not the best. In terms of Chinese dense sponges like BS or similar removal of old glue is masterpiece but I mentioned it on other thread and you mentioned in the video, rubber after couple of training session can peeled off from the blade. I’ve this problem with my Joola ZHQ-90.
In case of esn/jpn rubbers with porous sponge removal of #15 is not such as easy. I almost damage my g-1 and gewo SuperSelect-45. But comparing to my bty free chack is as night and day. Free chack is good if you glue once and play until it wore off.
For Chinese denser sponge rubbers I’m looking for something which will have better adhesion strength but it will be as nice as #15 in terms of removal.
Do you think Nittaku Finezip would be something which is good to interesting in?
What about Sueke no2?
Everyone recommends it as it is better than #15 but what about the adhesion strength ?

Ps. I would kill myself by my fist if had to remove the revolution glue from the sponge. It was nightmare to remove from BS. I can’t even imagine how to remove it from esn/jpn sponge!!!🤦‍♂️

 

[7sagittarius7]

Do you think Nittaku Finezip would be something which is good to interesting in?
What about Sueke no2?

As I said in the video, Finezip is a bit weaker than Free Chack II and removing old glue is easier with Finezip than Free Chack, but nowhere near DHS #15. So for regular removal of glue from rubber, you won't be too happy with Finezip either, but it keeps the rubber glued to the blade well .

I will do an additional test for Sueke when it arrives.

 

[disaster3]

As I said in the video, Finezip is a bit weaker than Free Chack II and removing old glue is easier with Finezip than Free Chack, but nowhere near DHS #15. So for regular removal of glue from rubber, you won't be too happy with Finezip either, but it keeps the rubber glued to the blade well .

I will do an additional test for Sueke when it arrives.

That’s why I’m thinking of finezip. I’m ok with #15 except of adhesion strength. It drives me crazy when after 2-3 training session I see that in some of places rubber peeled off. Then every lost point I drop blame that it is due to this fact 🤣
it goes against my high concept of aesthetics.
That why I’m looking for something with higher adhesion strength in parallel to quite ease of removal from denser sponge like BS.
Finezip seems to be ok. It’s not similar to #15 but it is manageable and not pain in the ass as Rev3 or Bty glue.
#15 will be used for porous sponge rubbers like esn/jpn. Or maybe Sueke will be the winner in the future.

 

[lodro]

As I said in the video, Finezip is a bit weaker than Free Chack II and removing old glue is easier with Finezip than Free Chack, but nowhere near DHS #15. So for regular removal of glue from rubber, you won't be too happy with Finezip either, but it keeps the rubber glued to the blade well .

I will do an additional test for Sueke when it arrives.

I have done the tests already.
Sueke2 has the stronger adhesion than DHS 15 and comes off easy. It also performs much better than Revo3

 

[disaster3]

Ok, so will check because owns one unopened before buying Finezip. If it works, then will stick with Sueke.

 

[Zwill]

Sueke No2 is pretty much the perfect glue. I am still waiting for the No1 to arrive so I will test that too.
Somewhere I read that Sueke No1 makes the rubber faster but as always I am open-minded but doubtful.

I tried a lot, No15, Finezip as Stiga Attach, Revo normal and high viscosity, German shit, cheap Chinese like Lidu or Dianchi for 2 EUR for 150ml... No2 is by far the best and I just discovered it by accident as I got some 50ml samples free with Stiga Mantra Pros my gf bought on taobao.

I skimmed through Darios video and it's pretty good. I would say using H3 BS as base to remove these glues is the best case. If it's some pored sponges like MX-P, god forbid FX-P, the sponges would have been pretty damaged with all glues except maybe for DHS No15. I think Revo needed more layers to be peeled better then it would not damage the sponge, and maybe Finezip too. But Butterfly Free Chack... you can pour the whole 500ml bottle and still kill the sponge.

 

[lodro]

I think Revo needed more layers to be peeled better then it would not damage the sponge

so true, there is a big difference between the revo-demo videos where they pull off the glue in one piece and the home-reality where after applying the 2 recommended layers you end up yanking little rubber bits the size of snow flakes of the rubbers.
I think for the demo video they used at least 4 layer of what is now pretty much the most expensive glue on the market except maybe the Butterfly crap, which is worth it's weight in gold.

 

[Zwill]

so true, there is a big difference between the revo-demo videos where they pull off the glue in one piece and the home-reality where after applying the 2 recommended layers you end up yanking little rubber bits the size of snow flakes of the rubbers.
I think for the demo video they used at least 4 layer of what is now pretty much the most expensive glue on the market except maybe the Butterfly crap, which is worth it's weight in gold.

Hahh, what a poor choice of words. Worth it's its weight in gold... More like worth its weight in needles sticking in your toes. But your point is well conveyed in a weird and obscure way.

The price of Sueke No2 is ~10EUR per 260ML SHIPPED, TAXED to EU... that is an insane deal. For 10EUR you barely get an edge tape from any big TT brand.

 

[lodro]

your point is well conveyed in a weird and obscure way.

what do you expect ? I AM weird and obscure 🤣