Recommend me a super slow control oriented setup , for someone who basically just puts everything back ?

[NextLevel]

So I would go in a different direction. I would try one or the Butterfly Balsacarbo blades, the X5 or the X7. They allow for easy controlled blocking because they are stiff but they don't rebound the ball much. And you can play an offensive game with them if you put in the work.

 

[Topspinslinger]

so basicly
- wants to play like its 1990 again
- doesnt like looping with modern rubbers.

Just go back to being a classic material player with Mark V or Sriver.
More spin in rally -> Mark V
Better placement in rally -> Sriver.

For blade that are most used with these rubbers are old Joola 5 ply or lightweight balsa carbon blades.

Flat hits and block are Balsa and spin/ flat hit are 5 ply wood

 

[TTDailyLess12]

so basicly
- wants to play like its 1990 again
- doesnt like looping with modern rubbers.

Just go back to being a classic material player with Mark V or Sriver.
More spin in rally -> Mark V
Better placement in rally -> Sriver.

For blade that are most used with these rubbers are old Joola 5 ply or lightweight balsa carbon blades.

Flat hits and block are Balsa and spin/ flat hit are 5 ply wood

Ha nothing to do with 1990 style , lots of players still play that way it's just I have a special ability of picking up impossible balls in defence and movement due to my squash and badminton background and for some reason I prefer defending to attacking I have no idea why it's kinda instinctive in me.

Also it's not like I don't like loops , but I don't want rubber to be too loopy, as I don't apply a lot of top spin , just enough sometimes especially when hitting a forehand winner from left to right after opening up my body .As of now rakza 7 soft is bit to loopy for me I always end up hitting either the corner of table or missing the table so I would prefer something with more control less throw , not to say I don't like loops at all though.

Thanks for the recommendations but pretty much that's the list now for rubbers mark V , Sriver , Andrew good and yinhe mercure 2 more or less. I will try and find if I can try some of these from players in clubs if anyone uses them else take a gamble on one of em.

Any specific blade recommendations ? So far I have been recommended tibhar defensive rackets and couple of butterfly ones which I am looking at. Also there are balsa blades which aren't carbon right ?

 

[TTDailyLess12]

Also I had couple other small question, is VKM also a good blade option for my style of game , only thing is It also has a large head size like defplay I think which I want to avoid ? And is there some website where I can look aand compare the head size of all these blades as I don't think tabletennis11 ( from where I purchase my goodies ) has that specificly mention in blades section.

 

[Gozo Aruna]

Any five ply wood with a OFF- rating with Mark V on both side. Then fish and lob to your heart content.

 

[lodro]

Ha nothing to do with 1990 style , lots of players still play that way it's just I have a special ability of picking up impossible balls in defence and movement due to my squash and badminton background and for some reason I prefer defending to attacking I have no idea why it's kinda instinctive in me.

Also it's not like I don't like loops , but I don't want rubber to be too loopy, as I don't apply a lot of top spin , just enough sometimes especially when hitting a forehand winner from left to right after opening up my body .As of now rakza 7 soft is bit to loopy for me I always end up hitting either the corner of table or missing the table so I would prefer something with more control less throw , not to say I don't like loops at all though.

Thanks for the recommendations but pretty much that's the list now for rubbers mark V , Sriver , Andrew good and yinhe mercure 2 more or less. I will try and find if I can try some of these from players in clubs if anyone uses them else take a gamble on one of em.

Any specific blade recommendations ? So far I have been recommended tibhar defensive rackets and couple of butterfly ones which I am looking at. Also there are balsa blades which aren't carbon right ?

https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/H524b9d307834487faafcb53a70151ff49.jpg?width=799&height=837&hash=1636

 

[TTDailyLess12]

So I am pretty much set on the rubbers between mark V , Sriver , andro and mercury 2 and will get to try them when I practice on Thursday as coach has them but was also wondering is xiom bega Europe is an option as well ? But either way can't seem to figure out the blade still ugh.

Anyway , if there's anyone else still using such setup opinion is still welcome till I make a final decision. Thanks !

 

[Lowday20298]

Butterfly primorac or stiga allround classic and butterfly sriver fx, yasaka mark v.

Way too slow for modern game, but could be fine for beginners, older folk, defenders or pure blockers. Plus these rubbers last a quite a long time, especially the mkv.

 

[Lazer]

So I am pretty much set on the rubbers between mark V , Sriver , andro and mercury 2 and will get to try them when I practice on Thursday as coach has them but was also wondering is xiom bega Europe is an option as well ? But either way can't seem to figure out the blade still ugh.

Anyway , if there's anyone else still using such setup opinion is still welcome till I make a final decision. Thanks !

Vega Europe will be faster than Mark V and Sriver.

Don’t believe anybody who says those are not for modern game, we’re all individuals. A slow setup is good for most people. This will give you a chance to develop your game, you will less afraid to hit long and thus hit better.

My buddy uses a Yasaka Sweden defensive with Mark V 1.5 on both sides. He is doing just grate, tons of spin and hard drives too…

Cheers
L-zr

 

[TTDailyLess12]

Vega Europe will be faster than Mark V and Sriver.

Don’t believe anybody who says those are not for modern game, we’re all individuals. A slow setup is good for most people. This will give you a chance to develop your game, you will less afraid to hit long and thus hit better.

My buddy uses a Yasaka Sweden defensive with Mark V 1.5 on both sides. He is doing just grate, tons of spin and hard drives too…

Cheers
L-zr

Thanks for the reply Lazer .

First things first , I am thinking of an idea where I would order two of the same blades with Andro Good / mark V on both sides on one ( btw which variation of mark V you suggest if I get that ? ) and yinhe mercury on second and then see which one suits me better .

But is it a good idea to get two of the same blades or should I order two different similar ones ? The idea is once I stck with a setup I want to stick for long and not EJ much to maintain consistency.

The only thing with blades is generally it's hard to figure out the right blade until you hold it in hand so having hard time deciding and Donic defplays super big head ( almost like a pan ) was annoying .

 

[TTDailyLess12]

Ok , so doing a bit of research how would Donic applegreen allplay pair with mark V for my kind of gamestyle ? From what I understands seems like a good combination ? Or should I still consider a blade geared towards def more ?

 

[Lazer]

Thanks for the reply Lazer .

First things first , I am thinking of an idea where I would order two of the same blades with Andro Good / mark V on both sides on one ( btw which variation of mark V you suggest if I get that ? ) and yinhe mercury on second and then see which one suits me better .

But is it a good idea to get two of the same blades or should I order two different similar ones ? The idea is once I stck with a setup I want to stick for long and not EJ much to maintain consistency.

The only thing with blades is generally it's hard to figure out the right blade until you hold it in hand so having hard time deciding and Donic defplays super big head ( almost like a pan ) was annoying .

OK, if you’re goal is a defensive style 1.5, if offensive 2.0 an up.

Appelgren all play is a good blade but it vibrates too much for my liking. Again it depends on your target style. If offensive a 5 ply allwood 5.8-6.0mm thick. A Mark V on this one would be plenty slow even a 2.0…

Mark V will pair well with almost any blade.

Cheers
L-zr

 

[riemsesy]

I am looking for a new setup which should be slow not much loopy and has immense control so I can put everything back with accuracy as I stand at a distance from table and return everything but just enough power to end the point with a flat smash ( my smashes are flat not loopy hence also why I need a slow rubber ) when opportunity arrives and great with chops .

So would need both blade and rubber recommendations, a lighter and smaller blade would be better as defplay is both heavy and big and in terms of rubbers I am not sure where to look I was thinking of some Chinese rubbers or even mark V , but my new coach after looking at my game recommends me andro good for my style of play to just have control and put everything back on table

Any recommendations would be helpful. Thank you.

I recently asked something like this for a friend of mine on this forum
result was:
KTL Pro XT 1.8mm
https://ttdd.eu/

729 FX - 1.8mm
https://topsas.lt

and he was very happy with it.. just what he wanted.
I am not so happy... normally he'd win with 11-8 per game.. it's now 11-3 or something :-(

 

[TTDailyLess12]

OK, if you’re goal is a defensive style 1.5, if offensive 2.0 an up.

Appelgren all play is a good blade but it vibrates too much for my liking. Again it depends on your target style. If offensive a 5 ply allwood 5.8-6.0mm thick. A Mark V on this one would be plenty slow even a 2.0…

Mark V will pair well with almost any blade.

Cheers
L-zr

Ohh I thought of applegreen because reading here apparently it has great feedback and feel and so on but if it vibrates it's out .

So basically you recommend yasaka sweden defensive ? Anything that will be consistent with great feel / feedback / touch should be good . I was looking at sweden extra too but maybe sweden defensive is better .

 

[Lazer]

Ohh I thought of applegreen because reading here apparently it has great feedback and feel and so on but if it vibrates it's out .

So basically you recommend yasaka sweden defensive ? Anything that will be consistent with great feel / feedback / touch should be good . I was looking at sweden extra too but maybe sweden defensive is better .

I don’t recommend a blade at all. Sweden defensive is a really slow blade. If you intend to be a defensive player then OK yes. For a more allround style I would select in that case Sweden, and for aon offensive style I would select Sweden extra. The Sweden defensive is a thin blade so it will vibrate some too.

Cheers
L-zr

 

[Louisgenius]

just stick with your current blade and chuck butterfly flextra rubbers in both sides. Excellent spin and control and is very affordable. Good for chopping, blocking, and some attacking shots.

 

[Johnniedarko]

I have both the Yasaka Sweden Classic and the Donic Appelgren Allplay with Yinhe/Galaxy Mercury 2 on both sides. I'm a beginner but if you're debating between these two, these are the differences I've noticed:

The Appelgren vibrates with a harder, more distinct click. The Sweden Classic has a more muted thud.

As far as playing characteristics go, very similar but at slow hits or passive blocks, the Appelgren hits just a bit harder. At harder shots I didn't notice a difference but my technique isn't yet consistent anyways.

The handles, both flared, are quite different. The Appelgren has a beefy handle that is easy to grip with your full hand.
The Sweden has a much thinner middle part, so you mostly touch it at the blade side and at the end of the handle, but not so much in the middle. Personally it feels easier to flick at the expense of a secure feeling.

For what its worth, a friend who plays a good spin and control type game prefers the Sweden, and really loves this setup with the Mercury 2, as do I. But most people prefer the Appelgren for the handle. Hope this helps.

 

[Brs]

Your style self-description cries out for anti-spin. Cannot believe nobody recommended it yet.

Dr Neubauer ABS is a frictionless anti for playing every ball back on the table. If you want a faster anti for attacking then Yasaka antipower. Or put one on each side for the dreaded double anti bat.

If the title of the thread is truly what you want, you want anti-spin.

 

[PoorPingPong&PianoPlayer]

Your style self-description cries out for anti-spin. Cannot believe nobody recommended it yet.

Dr Neubauer ABS is a frictionless anti for playing every ball back on the table. If you want a faster anti for attacking then Yasaka antipower. Or put one on each side for the dreaded double anti bat.

If the title of the thread is truly what you want, you want anti-spin.

"...can keep chopping for hours but at the same time I do tend finish off points more with backhand smash..."

IMHO it doesn't sound like anti-style. I played such a guy yesterday. He chopped everything and sometimes smashed me. Regular inverted rubbers on both sides. I lost both games just by two points as his stroke consistency was better than mine.

Of course, anti is an option, still I don't believe that without any previous experience with LP/MP/SP it's a good idea to start to play anti as the primary style. Especially if their current stroke consistency is high enough.

And last but not least, block is a dominant anti-style stroke, but not chop, I think. As far as I understood that some solid chopping possibility gives you TTR-KILLER or SABOTAGE only... BUT in reality it's not so easy like in these videos, right?

 

[TTDailyLess12]

I don’t recommend a blade at all. Sweden defensive is a really slow blade. If you intend to be a defensive player then OK yes. For a more allround style I would select in that case Sweden, and for aon offensive style I would select Sweden extra. The Sweden defensive is a thin blade so it will vibrate some too.

Cheers
L-zr

Lastly since a friend has an extra tibhar stratus power wood lying around which hes willing to giveaway do you think it would pair well with mark v as well for now till i get a new blade ?