I've been using hide glue for some time, but I believe your blade was made with PU glue.
Do you (and your customers) generally have a preference between hide-glue and polyurethane glues? I've been experimenting with hide glue during this coronavirus time period and find it very pleasant to clean up (compared to poly-glue, especially), though the long dry time is less ideal, and the fact that it doesn't permeate into the wood layers makes those blades a bit more fragile than my poly-glue based blades. I haven't had a chance to hit with any of my new hide-glue blades, so I'm still left wondering how the feel differs from poly-glue.
I have some experience with Bty Primo clones with hide glue. To be honest, I really can't tell why but I really like the feel I got at the handle with that specific composition of the Primo with hide glue. For me this is maybe in the same region why old Stiga blades are popular among some players. The really old ones are also something down the line with Ayous inside and Limba outside and done with hide glue. The "instrument" series from Nittaku also tries to get some $$$ out of it being done with hide glue and a lot of people like them. (Might be also only a psychological effect)Do you (and your customers) generally have a preference between hide-glue and polyurethane glues?
THIS really is new to me and thanks for that info! My Western Red Cedar blade was specifically made with epoxy(?) as the blade builder shared some experience with me. He said that with hide glue a blade is normally "softer" and "flexier" which might be too much with something that soft like WRC. A lot of blade builders also told me that hide glue doesn't work that well with fibers. This makes sense for me, hide glue is water based, something like "poly glues" are really often based on organic solvents. The majority of fibers are hydrophobic so a water based glue will not work that well. My thought was that wood is not that "picky" and neither hydrophilic nor hydrophobic. But thinking of it, all paints for wood were made with organic solvents. Only recently, water based paints were developed but still, something like an Alkyd is still superior. So maybe wood is more hydrophobic and yes, there has to be a difference between hide glue and something with organic solvents. I would even tend to say that blade weight can be easily adjusted with organic solvent based glues as you can just add more glue which is absorbed by the wood. This should also give more stiffness to the blade and also more hardness. (Which is indeed the case)I've been experimenting with hide glue during this coronavirus time period and find it very pleasant to clean up (compared to poly-glue, especially), though the long dry time is less ideal, and the fact that it doesn't permeate into the wood layers makes those blades a bit more fragile than my poly-glue based blades.
I'll be totally honest here, I do use hide glue if requested, but it's not my favorite glue to use. Hide glue is heavier, so it's only suitable for certain compositions, and it's harder to use. I get a much stronger bond using half the amount of glue with PU. And Forget about using it consistently in lower temperatures...
Hide glue is used in instrument building because of the reversibility. It's mostly used in the neck joint of acoustic guitars and other stringed instruments because it allows for very easy repairs. Every acoustic guitar will eventually need a neck reset, the wood deforms under the string tension and this changes the original neck angle. Just inject some water vapor in the neck joint and the glue melts. But this property of being sensible to moisture is not ideal in TT blades.
Like you said, the glue forms a layer over the material, unlike PU which penetrates the material. Will this cause a difference in feeling? I'm not sure... I've built two similar blades using hide glue and PU, but at different points in time, so I don't have a direct comparison. But I did prefer the PU one. I have to make a more scientific approach on this and build a set of identical blades using these glues so I can directly compare them.
I thought this would benefit the larger group.
What is the main difference between Aramid Carbon vs Innegra Carbon?
I believe it was mentioned before that closest thing to Aramid Carbon would be ALC.
What about Innegra Carbon?
What is the point of me posting this? Information. Xiom for sure uses the same chemical compound as Butterfly and calls it Aramid because, then it seems similar but different. So, for branding, or maybe some other reason, they want it to sound like Arylate, but not to use the same word Butterfly uses. However, Xiom has not found the same spin or weave that Butterfly uses so, even though it is the same chemical, it does not feel quite the same.
Thanks Carl, you always step in with interesting information.
All you said is correct, I was simplifying things a bit but essentially the message is the same. The truth is we are dealing with high performance fibers meant to be used in much more demanding applications than a TT blade. For the use we give them, Arylate and Kevlar are similar enough, the differences that matters the most are weave pattern and cloth density.
I'm assuming this, but I believe that Butterfly has a proprietary weave pattern for their ALC. At least I've seen the weave pattern and it's not something you would normally find, that's one of the reason for their unique feel. I don't know if Xiom tried to copy this, but I'm sure they have a full team dismantling Butterfly blades