SDC Handmade Blades

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Here we go again... 16 blades for immediate sale, that I will start posting next week. I know I always say this, but I think we have some very interesting blades in this batch.
 
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Wow, the 5+2 inner, first on the left, looks like my 1st blade from you, with the ultra-dense ayous core... Does it differ only in weight?

On Tuesday I had a hit with it again, because a friend tested the Andro Chintac I have on the 2nd blade from you. I still love the feeling.
 
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Wow, the 5+2 inner, first on the left, looks like my 1st blade from you, with the ultra-dense ayous core... Does it differ only in weight?

On Tuesday I had a hit with it again, because a friend tested the Andro Chintac I have on the 2nd blade from you. I still love the feeling.
Yes, same design as yours but different composition. It actually has a "sad" story, I'll tell more about it when I post it.
 
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hey @SDC , a friend of mine saw a video by zhang juke where he recommended to sand of 2-3g from the top layer to remove the print and give more feeling.
personally i think that is bs and think he destroyed his rare silver tag viscaria and created an uneven surface, but would love to hear the opinion from a professional blade maker what this tip actually does to a blade and what effects this will create for feeling and playing properties in the example of an outer layer blade like the viscaria.
thanks :)
 
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hey @SDC , a friend of mine saw a video by zhang juke where he recommended to sand of 2-3g from the top layer to remove the print and give more feeling.
personally i think that is bs and think he destroyed his rare silver tag viscaria and created an uneven surface, but would love to hear the opinion from a professional blade maker what this tip actually does to a blade and what effects this will create for feeling and playing properties in the example of an outer layer blade like the viscaria.
thanks :)
I wouldn't say he is necessarily wrong, but it depends on the case. I'm generally against printing but for other reasons, I think it's completely unnecessary since you are going to cover it with rubbers anyway, so I only do it if the customer requests it, or very rarely if it's a special blade and I know that others will value it. But that's just my personal take. Printing nowadays is very thin, and doesn't affect feeling at all. Removing a bit of the top layer can be beneficial (in terms of feeling), if the blade has a really thick and dense Koto layer to begin with, which is not always the case...

Chinese players used to (they still do?) sand their blades but for other reasons, to create more space for boosted rubbers and not get caught. A well boosted H3 does give more feeling 😅
 

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#1424 - Outer B-S - OFF-/OFF

There's nothing too special going on with this blade, I always say that wood density means more than wood species, and this is just an example of it. In terms of structure, it's just another Vis style composition, but I used really low density Koto outer veneers, and a high density Kiri core. This reduces the reaction of the blade, makes it less responsive in the short game and with a more linear output when you start to swing harder. The denser core also removes the hollowness that sometimes these types of blades have. The core is also the thickest layer in the blade, so naturally the weight of the composition increases, making it more head heavy. I think that all of this makes it a more Fh oriented blade, meaning you can swing harder without the ball flying off, the power comes from you and not the blade necessarily, but still with that general outer blade feel.

- Koto / B-S / Ayous / Kiri core
- 86.7g
- 5.7mm
- 157x150mm
- FL (100x25.0-22.4mm)
- Balance: 3.3cm (Med)

1424-1.jpg


1424-2.jpg


1424-3.jpg
 

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#1453 - 7 Wood - ALL+/OFF-

All the layers in this blade were "cooked" before gluing, it's a fully thermo treated blade, which I believe I've never seen before, but to be honest, I don't think I will make again. I've spoken about thermo treated wood before, but let me do a quick summary. When you cook wood past a certain point, you force out all the residual moisture it has, the inner vessels shrink and do not return to their original size. This makes the wood much more resistant to environmental changes, and that's the reason why you see it being used so much in outdoor furniture, or pieces that don't require a big structural response. Why? Because the wood also loses a lot of structural integrity, it becomes very brittle, meaning it breaks much more easily and without warning (it doesn't bend before it breaks). In TT blades, I've seen more broken thermo treated cores than anything else for example. I'm always honest about the blades that I post here, and frankly this blade turned out slower than what it was supposed too. It is a little lighter, given that the Ayous I used was very dense to begin with, but that's also an important thing I want to mention.

I usually hear people say: "wood must be as dry as possible", and that's really not true. Wood must be as dry as possible, for the intent it's being used and the environment it will be exposed, otherwise it will just absorb moisture from the environment to reach a new equilibrium and warp... The wood I normally use is already at a relatively low moisture content, usually 5-8%, so the weight gain we have by making it 0-1%, for me does not make up for the structural integrity we lose.

So yeah, this blade feels slower than what it was supposed to because the wood lost elasticity, there isn't that snap, the ball just kinda stays there... But here's the silver lining, the ball just stays there, which means it has a fantastic dwell time. The feeling is also a bit different, it's soft but dry, kinda hard to explain... All in all, a very unique blade.

By the way, all the things I've stated that make it a disadvantage to use thermo treated wood in the composition, make it perfect to use in the handle. Normally I don't use Ayous in handles because it's too light colored, which means it gets dirty quickly. It's also soft, so it absorbs a lot of moisture and gets soggy if you sweat a lot. The thermo treatment solves all these issues, and in this case the loss of structural integrity isn't an issue. The lightness of the material allows me to keep the handle fully solid, and capable to absorb all the bending forces. So, you will be seeing a few more handles like this. I almost burnt my house down, but it was totally worth it 😂.

- Limba / Ayous / Ayous / Ayous //
- 89.3g
- 6.2mm
- 150x157mm
- ST (23.0x28.5x100mm)
- Balance: 3.5cm (Med)

1453-1.jpg


1453-2.jpg


1453-3.jpg
 
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#1424 - Outer B-S - OFF-/OFF

There's nothing too special going on with this blade, I always say that wood density means more than wood species, and this is just an example of it. In terms of structure, it's just another Vis style composition, but I used really low density Koto outer veneers, and a high density Kiri core. This reduces the reaction of the blade, makes it less responsive in the short game and with a more linear output when you start to swing harder. The denser core also removes the hollowness that sometimes these types of blades have. The core is also the thickest layer in the blade, so naturally the weight of the composition increases, making it more head heavy. I think that all of this makes it a more Fh oriented blade, meaning you can swing harder without the ball flying off, the power comes from you and not the blade necessarily, but still with that general outer blade feel.

- Koto / B-S / Ayous / Kiri core
- 86.7g
- 5.7mm
- 157x150mm
- FL (100x25.0-22.4mm)
- Balance: 3.3cm (Med)

1424-1.jpg


1424-2.jpg


1424-3.jpg
This seems like a smart way to make a powerful but controlled outer blade.
 
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#1482 - Inner A-C - OFF-/OFF

N301 style blade, so basically a W968 with a Koto top ply, which doesn't really translate well in the photo, but it's super fish scaly in this one. Slightly crisper than its Limba counter part, it feels soft and kinda slow on passive shots, until you whack the ball and watch it go "Weeeeeee...". Yes, it has temperament issues, but it's very fun to play with and a dangerous weapon in the right hands.

- Koto / Ayous / A-C / Ayous core
- 92.1g
- 6.1mm
- 160x151mm
- FL (24.0x100mm)
- Balance: 3.4cm (Med)

1482-1.jpg


1482-2.jpg


1482-3.jpg
 
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#1482 - Inner A-C - OFF-/OFF

N301 style blade, so basically a W968 with a Koto top ply, which doesn't really translate well in the photo, but it's super fish scaly in this one. Slightly crisper than its Limba counter part, it feels soft and kinda slow on passive shots, until you whack the ball and watch it go "Weeeeeee...". Yes, it has temperament issues, but it's very fun to play with and a dangerous weapon in the right hands.

- Koto / Ayous / A-C / Ayous core
- 92.1g
- 6.1mm
- 160x151mm
- FL (24.0x100mm)
- Balance: 3.4cm (Med)

1482-1.jpg


1482-2.jpg


1482-3.jpg
The Ayous outer ply seems very thick, at least more than on a 301. Is my perception wrong? Otherwise, what's the purpose?

This is the composition I like the most and experimented on the 301, king acB and the Cybershape Carbon (though I don't know the kind of composite Stiga uses).
 
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The Ayous outer ply seems very thick, at least more than on a 301. Is my perception wrong? Otherwise, what's the purpose?

This is the composition I like the most and experimented on the 301, king acB and the Cybershape Carbon (though I don't know the kind of composite Stiga uses).
It's about 0.8mm thick, so within the parameters for this type of blade. Keep in mind that the original may also vary a bit, the blades are made to spec and that is one of the things they "play" with. In this case, the Ayous intermediate layer is a bit darker, and the top ply is light, so it pops out more.
 
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Can you elaborate on the balance?

I value actually the grip and balance over the playing characteristics first. Had too many good blades play really great, but that I don't want to use because it always slightly feeling off.
 
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