How to remove the glue from the rubber's sponge?

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Yes, don't buy Butterfly, Donic, Andro, Tibhar etc glues, they have the same style of bottle and the glue is the same shit in all of them.

You should buy Revolution No3 or DHS No15. If you stack 3-4 layers you can remove them in one go without damaging the sponge. This is also true for cake sponge like Tenergy.

Since now you are in a pickle what you can do is get a solvent and first spread it on the glue and let it get a bit dissolved. After that probably you can remove the glue without much damage to the sponge.
A great solvent would be a booster. Possibly other solvents could be used too like baby oil or something with VOC, but not sure what that will do to your rubbers.

Oh no... I just bought this glue and use it to attach my new Fastarc C1 rubber yesterday... :'(

I actually intend to use my rubber as long as possible and even reuse it on my new blade (if I ever buy a new one, since my current blade splinters easily)

Have any of you tried this glue? is it easy to remove this glue from the sponge?
 
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Oh no... I just bought this glue and use it to attach my new Fastarc C1 rubber yesterday... :'(

I actually intend to use my rubber as long as possible and even reuse it on my new blade (if I ever buy a new one, since my current blade splinters easily)

Have any of you tried this glue? is it easy to remove this glue from the sponge?
This one I have not seen yet, but the tube is different from the German made glues like Andro Turbo Fix so it might be something else. (and better)

If you open the bottle give it a sniff, if it smells like ammonia and almost hurts you to sniff it, then it's probably a good glue, similar to Revolution.

If it smells sweet then it's more worrying since the German glues have this sweet smell.
 
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I'm sticking now to CHinese glues, I was cured from BTY one, as posted above in this thread. Still have big bottle DHS #15 which I like much, and will give a try Sueke Suke no 2 which will come to me from Alliexpress, if it will be similar and good to remove maybe I will switch to it as it is really cheap, ~12 USD free ship for 260ml bottle from AliExpress
 
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This one I have not seen yet, but the tube is different from the German made glues like Andro Turbo Fix so it might be something else. (and better)

If you open the bottle give it a sniff, if it smells like ammonia and almost hurts you to sniff it, then it's probably a good glue, similar to Revolution.

If it smells sweet then it's more worrying since the German glues have this sweet smell.
Hi Zwill. Thanks for the tips, I'll check how it smell. Hopefully it can be peeled normally 😅
 
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@Zwill my FZD ALC survived, as it was made very well. The problem I had only with G-1 sponge. It was nightmare. But finished already and the sponge is maybe not ideal but not bad at all. can be used later.
Yep I've 500ml DHS #15 bottle sealed because would like to finish 90ml Free Chack but avoiding similar situation in the future for esn/jpn tensor rubber will use DHS glue and for Chinese denser sponge rubbers Bty to finish it, w/o giving it a try once again in the future :)
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You can apply the first layer of No.15, which comes off easily from the sponge, and then you can apply stickier glue on top. I have been practicing this for a long time. The first layer of good glue prevents subsequent layers of glue from coming into contact with the sponge, so removing glue from the sponge will not be a problem. This way you can use the remaining sticky BTY glue.
 
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You can apply the first layer of No.15, which comes off easily from the sponge, and then you can apply stickier glue on top. I have been practicing this for a long time. The first layer of good glue prevents subsequent layers of glue from coming into contact with the sponge, so removing glue from the sponge will not be a problem. This way you can use the remaining sticky BTY glue.
I also found out that, if need to replace the rubber to different blade, after removing rubber, I put one layer of cheap glue on the rubber it is usually the 3rd layer of glue (before applying rubber on to the blade a use 2 layers on rubber and 1 on blade) after it dries, all 3 layers is quite easily removed after rolling it.
Above was noticed recently when I changed something
 
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How do you actually do this with an iron? What the process - and how do you not ruin the iron :) ?
Here you need to worry more about not damaging the rubber by overheating. For me, this method works when there is a lot of glue and it is difficult to remove mechanically. In any other cases it is easier to clean mechanically.
You just take an old iron, or a new one, but so that your wife doesn’t see it :D, heat it up and carefully remove the old glue with the edge of the iron, like using a scraper. At the same time, the glue heats up, softens and is easily separated from the rubber. Yes, the rubber may heat up and even increase in size, but then it cools down and takes on its normal size, so you need to choose the minimum possible temperature and how to train your hands in any task.
 
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Really helpful thread.

I've used Gewo Hydrotec and it's a pain to remove from rubber.

Recently I've switched to Free Chack II and is also a pain to remove from rubber, but a bit better than Gewo.

Now, I'm thinking about getting this Sueke No.2 but there's no review about it, also I'd like to know the difference with the Sueke No.1 ...

I might go to DHS #15 but hey, it's pricey, 19€ for 98ml...

Also, Loki Glue caught my attention, 11€ for 100ml shipped, Loki lately is making good stuff...
 
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Really helpful thread.

I've used Gewo Hydrotec and it's a pain to remove from rubber.

Recently I've switched to Free Chack II and is also a pain to remove from rubber, but a bit better than Gewo.

Now, I'm thinking about getting this Sueke No.2 but there's no review about it, also I'd like to know the difference with the Sueke No.1 ...

I might go to DHS #15 but hey, it's pricey, 19€ for 98ml...

Also, Loki Glue caught my attention, 11€ for 100ml shipped, Loki lately is making good stuff...
I tried Sueke No 2, it is fantastic. I don't know what is the difference between No1 and No2 but I like the Sueke No2 more than DHS no15 and I really love DHS No15.
 
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I tried Sueke No 2, it is fantastic. I don't know what is the difference between No1 and No2 but I like the Sueke No2 more than DHS no15 and I really love DHS No15.
I asked the seller what the difference was between no1 and no2 and his reply was "the color of the bottle" 😁
I know we are as usual getting off topic but No2 Sueke with the standard application = 2 on the rubber 1 on the blade, the glue sticks better then both DHS 15 and Revol 3. But wait, that is not all, when removing a rubber the film of glue really does come off the rubber in 1 sheet just like they show it in the revol3 videos but it hardly ever worked there unless I applied another 2-3 layers. Now don't go all crazy and buy the No2 otherwise they will put the price up.😂
 
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I tried Sueke No 2, it is fantastic. I don't know what is the difference between No1 and No2 but I like the Sueke No2 more than DHS no15 and I really love DHS No15.
Guys finally I've received and used for the first time the Sueke no.2

This is absolute a great glue! Easy to spread, even on blades. Great quality, better than tons of TT glues, including Revo no.3 and its terrible ammonia smell. I'll report back about removing it from rubbers.
 
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Guys finally I've received and used for the first time the Sueke no.2

This is absolute a great glue! Easy to spread, even on blades. Great quality, better than tons of TT glues, including Revo no.3 and its terrible ammonia smell. I'll report back about removing it from rubbers.
I just ordered some of the Sueke no2 glue from Ali - keen to try it.
 
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Does this Sueke glue really stick the rubber to the blade enough? I like the DHS 15 for everything but the thing it is supposed to do - stick a rubber to a blade. Other glues are a pain in the behind to remove from rubber but you don't have to worry about the rubber suddenly fly free during a game.
 
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