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There are tons of similar threads going on. Check a few of those. Cheers L-zr

It was probably a customer order, now THAT does NOT qualify as a premade. 😉 The players I am talking about can’t telll the difference… 🤣 Cheers L-zr

Remove them slowly. From side to side. All blades I know has the grains running top to bottom and wood is stronger against the grains. Cheers L-zr

Don’t forget that 1/2 of the game is in your head. I think it sounds you already gave up. When I get agitated or disturbed I can loose to almost anybody. And when my head is on and I have a good self confidence I surprise myself. Don’t put yourself down it’s just a game. I am struggling a lot...

I see it a bit differently. Premade means that someone else than yourself has put it together. And they cost less than buying each individual peace. There is nothing wrong with Yasaka 2040 and Mark V either. For someone who is not a TT connoisseur it is probably enough to start with. Better...

Its good for a whole lot of players, but because of all the haters they don't know about it. Rakza 7 is simply too bouncy for many. They say they like it... I know a player who just loves his Primorac carbon with dual Tenergy 05. Its so easy to make him hit long so it isn't funny anymore...

I say Rakza 7 is too much for an absolute beginner. Mark V is much better. I know advanced players that still plays with Mark V. The topsheet is one of the markets best. It lives longer than anything else and has almost as much spin as the spinniest ESN rubbers. And not all premades all shite...

It prevents oxidation by not letting air come in contact with the rubber. I think the oxygen in the air also prevent some stickiness… Cheers L-zr

If you use a cleaning agent instead it dries in 5 seconds and I haven’t seen any water spots whatsoever… Just one squirt on each side, then wipe. Wait 5 seconds, until it looks dry then put covers on. Works on both stickies and ESNs… Cheers L-zr

All those options are fine. If you are going to use water, use it sparely so that it doesn’t damage the blade. I use just any table tennis cleaning agent and the soft side of a dishwashing sponge. If your rubber is non sticky use the sticky covers and vice versa. Cheers L-zr

Only plain water doesn’t quite do it. Just a few drops from any table tennis cleaner. Wipe off with a sponge. Done deal. No different than other rubbers. I haven’t seen any detrimental effects. It will slowly regain the stickiness after a few hours under protective sheets… I am planning to...

There is no real reason you can not play rpb with a J-pen. I removed the cork and put a long pips rubber on the backside, works like a champ. I selected long pips because I could keep the racket light. Maybe I could find a short pips rubber with a thin sponge but that wasn’t important. I had to...

H3 is not harder to control. It is slower and has a lower trajectory than most ESN rubbers. This means hit harder and with a little more open racket. It is better to brush more and engage the sponge less. As the tackiness dissappears close the racket angle little by little and try to engage the...

What’s important here is NOT whether it’s carbon or not. It’s whether it’s too fast. With a too fast setup you will start hesitating and that is severely detrimental for your development. A good slow carbon blade is Donic Appelgren WC 89. But you probably be best off with an allwood 5 ply...

BTY ALC.S is really slow and vibraty… If you like carbon blades I don’t think You would like this… But You may be playing with a blade that is too fast for You. Donic Appelgren WC 89 is a slow outer carbon blade that feels like a carbon blade. Another one is Nittaku S-CZ. The Nittaku is a...

Seal first THEN sand. If you only sand you probably make the glue stick harder and without a good sealer it becomes worse. He wants you to buy many blades 😀. Cheers L-zr

Have to agree on this, I am constantly looking for a rubber that SUITS my technique and level. Basically what I like… I the technique changes the rubber comes after this. Cheers L-zr

Month and year is enough. In this case I would keep the date part of the number. But that’s not important. I would like to: 1 - Make the blade unique 2 - Now the date it was made. If it was me I would have labeled it: 2024-08-23 (+ a serial number of some kind) This way you can keep records...

I would like a date and a number. The number could start at one each day. To get a number burnt or stamped makes it feel so much better, somehow it makes it unique and since it is hand made it is really. I would pay extra for this. Cheers L-zr

Good one 🤣🤣🤣… Cheers L-zr