Damage on my FZD ALC

[joshmak10]

I just peeled my old rubbers off my FZD ALC and noticed this on my backhand side. Is there gonna be any regluing or performance issues when I paste new rubbers onto it?

 

[PaddyPolar]

I doesn't look too bad... on the edge so it won't really effect the rubber.

It is an excuse to buy a new one though😉

 

[lodro]

I just peeled my old rubbers off my FZD ALC and noticed this on my backhand side. Is there gonna be any regluing or performance issues when I paste new rubbers onto it?

If you have the skills and the proper glue and some micro -balloons you could make a paste and fill the cracks. Apart from the visible missing little bits of veneer is there actually a delamination of the top sheet ??
If there is no delamination and you can not make the paste to fill the cracks I would suggest you buy a top quality superglue and carefully add a tiny drop of glue on each of the cracks and let it seep in , do nothing else. Out on the edges there will be no performance issues.

P.S. Has the blade been lacquered and when you are pulling off the old rubbers are you pulling from the side and not from bottom to the top ??

 

[joshmak10]

If you have the skills and the proper glue and some micro -balloons you could make a paste and fill the cracks. Apart from the visible missing little bits of veneer is there actually a delamination of the top sheet ??
If there is no delamination and you can not make the paste to fill the cracks I would suggest you buy a top quality superglue and carefully add a tiny drop of glue on each of the cracks and let it seep in , do nothing else. Out on the edges there will be no performance issues.

P.S. Has the blade been lacquered and when you are pulling off the old rubbers are you pulling from the side and not from bottom to the top ??

I didn’t lacquer the blade and i always peel from bottom left diagonally to top right

 

[joshmak10]

I doesn't look too bad... on the edge so it won't really effect the rubber.

It is an excuse to buy a new one though😉

Lol BTF blades so expensive 🥲

 

[lodro]

I didn’t lacquer the blade and i always peel from bottom left diagonally to top right

well there ye go, and it is on the top right where you ripped out the little woody bits, right ???
Start from the side and go across and ehhmm, lacquer the blades.

 

[joshmak10]

well there ye go, and it is on the top right where you ripped out the little woody bits, right ???
Start from the side and go across and ehhmm, lacquer the blades.

thanks for the advice

 

[lodro]

thanks for the advice

it is not really advise, just a friendly suggestion

 

[Stella]

Using a bit of Titebond II, stick a bit of wood shavings on it and sand it flat to avoid the whole surface being ripped off in subsequent uses.

 

[joshmak10]

UPDATE: When I look at the blade again i noticed this that some wood has completely peeled off and now i can see the ALC layer. will it be okay to paste rubbers on this? Or should i just buy a new blade or try to find someone to repair

 

[joshmak10]

it is not really advise, just a friendly suggestion

still very much appreciated

 

[lodro]

now i can see the ALC layer. will it be okay to paste rubbers on this?

NO !
I am sure that if you stick another rubber on, the blade will suffer badly and when the rubber needs to come off again it might be difficult to repair. If it would not be for the distance and the postage costs I would offer to repair it for you. For somebody who has experience this is not a difficult job but it can't be done by just any woodworker. They are likely to make a mess out of it. I have repaired quite a few blades , some my own and some for club members and unfortunately there were quite a few expensive Butterfly blades involved.

 

[piligrim]

What glue you was using?

 

[joshmak10]

NO !
I am sure that if you stick another rubber on, the blade will suffer badly and when the rubber needs to come off again it might be difficult to repair. If it would not be for the distance and the postage costs I would offer to repair it for you. For somebody who has experience this is not a difficult job but it can't be done by just any woodworker. They are likely to make a mess out of it. I have repaired quite a few blades , some my own and some for club members and unfortunately there were quite a few expensive Butterfly blades involved.

Ah ok I think I might just buy a new blade then, but thanks for the offer!

 

[joshmak10]

What glue you was using?

DHS No 15 Glue

 

[lodro]

Ah ok I think I might just buy a new blade then, but thanks for the offer!

Keep the blade in a safe spot. Sooner or later you will come across somebody that can fix it. If done properly this blade can be restored and will play as a new blade. Or you might hear of someone who plans a holiday in NZ.

 

[riemsesy]

Some polyurethane matte floor lacquer, a woodfiller and a sandpaper can restore this easily.

 

[lodro]

Some polyurethane matte floor lacquer, a woodfiller and a sandpaper can restore this easily.

Some polyurethane matte floor lacquer, a woodfiller and a sandpaper can restore this easily.

and which of the 3 items you mentioned will fix the de-lamination of the top-veneer ?

 

[pong99]

For delamination I apply a small bit of super glue with a toothpick and put the blade under a C clamp. Use as little glue as possible After this repair the holes can be filled. If you want more margin for error, then use liquid epoxy, like the type used for assembling golf clubs. This epoxy will take several hours to cure, so you will have plenty of time to clamp/reclamp to wipe off the excess epoxy.

For filler I use wood epoxy, it's mixes up as a putty which can be sanded after curing

 

[riemsesy]

and which of the 3 items you mentioned will fix the de-lamination of the top-veneer ?

Didn’t notice on the pictures that delamination went further.
If delamination goes further then pong99 gave a good way to fix it. Maybe I would use hot hide glue, clamp it etc.
Or I’d just let some of the thinned pu run where it’s delaminated, clamp it etc