Blade damage opinion w968 provincial

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New Member
Mar 2024
Blade damage provincial w968 opinion

I just hit my blade with the table and this is how it looks like I would like an opinion about it.
Its a provincial w968 and Iam worried about that crack that its there since its on the core and not the outer layers, also the outer layer splintered pretty badly and after changing rubbers how long do you guys think it will last? Since its a expensive blade i really want it to last a long time, sadly i havent had time to seal it so i am going to do it with my next rubber change. Also curious what those blue threads on the dent are since it doesnt look like conventional alc.


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No problem that’s fixable. I would probably put some glue in the core crack before I ripped the rubber off. If the other layer wood seem to be there I would do the same. If not cut off a small part and fill with a thin ply, wood type does not matter.

says Serve, top, edge. Repeat.
says Serve, top, edge. Repeat.
Active Member
May 2020
Read 1 reviews
Don't seal it. I've fixed a couple of my blades with my viscaria being my greatest save.

1 - Take off the rubbers and put even pressure on the point of contact from the 2 faces of the racket. I would recommend a wood press or if you can't find anything like that, then get a plastic mallet and start trying to flatten the wood.

2 - Use TINY portions of LIQUID super glue and then pepper it with saw dust from on top to fill in the hole and give it strong structure. Then when it dries, put some more TINY amount of superglue and pepper it with sawdust. Repeat many times to the point where the filler is bigger than the hole and starts to go out of the original shape of the blade, so you can shape it without worrying of damaging the wood underneath even more. I cannot stress this enough, add more material to the hit area than you think is nessesary so you can shape it back to perfection.

This step is important cause if done wrong then you'll end up having a cavity inside of the blade. So take your time and do it correctly, slow and steady.

3 - Take a heavy sandpaper and start giving the basic shape, then take a lighter and start finishing it to make it smooth, even and straight. If you end up sanding a bit of the wood from the top ply don't worry, just make sure it's even, even if the plies from underneath appear, they don't affect the blade's playing characteristics in any way.

4 - When you get it all uniform, add one more small layer of bare super glue, very small, to seal the wood and make sure it doesn't splinter. Take your lightest sandpaper and slowly even that out as well. The wood underneath will have drank the liquid super glue and will have gotten a good bond.

The blade should be fine now. Just keep in mind that white wood sawdust turns a pale reddish colour when mixed with super glue. The reason we mix sawdust with superglue is so that the rigid superglue bonds better with the characteristics of the wood and end up feeling like normal wood. It's very important to the blade that it's superglue with sawdust.

Also, here's the viscaria I was talking about, it may look like crap, but it's completely even and it plays beautifully.


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Just fix it before it gets worst, buy a limba veneer and wood glue cut it horizontal replace that part sand it with very fine sand paper that's it. In the part that is missing wood use wood filler i personally use superglue with a sharp cutter remove the excess and sand it. I sand it with a hand nail shinnig kit with super fine sand sticks in this way you wont oversand it, dont do it like the guy in the video that sand paper is too coarse that part will be thinner and possibly will play different and will be too reactive.

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