Dignics 09c vs DHS Hurricane 3 Blue versions

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I'm not sure what to choose. Help me to choose a hard tacky rubber.
Here's the video of me taking under spins. I'm lifting the ball more to compensate for my lower speed. In actual matches, I'm not comfortable with my forehand which results in net or out of the table. Of course, I need to work on my technique it's not good yet, but it's little difficult with D05 in the forehand.

That's the reason I'm looking for a slow rubber with a good arc like the tacky rubbers we are discussing now.


 
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Here's the video of me taking under spins. I'm lifting the ball more to compensate for my lower speed. In actual matches, I'm not comfortable with my forehand which results in net or out of the table. Of course, I need to work on my technique it's not good yet, but it's little difficult with D05 in the forehand.

That's the reason I'm looking for a slow rubber with a good arc like the tacky rubbers we are discussing now.


You can fix this with technical adjustments. Not necessary to change rubber.
 
Here's the video of me taking under spins. I'm lifting the ball more to compensate for my lower speed. In actual matches, I'm not comfortable with my forehand which results in net or out of the table. Of course, I need to work on my technique it's not good yet, but it's little difficult with D05 in the forehand.

That's the reason I'm looking for a slow rubber with a good arc like the tacky rubbers we are discussing now.


Use your legs more instead of your arm/shoulder -- crouch down and think about touching your elbow to your knee before your stroke. You really need to brush the ball upwards instead of forwards.

The most crucial point, though: your racket cannot be angled down, not even a little bit. Your racket should be perpendicular to the floor when making contact, and if you make a slight error, it should be by pointing the racket slightly upwards. Don't make errors in the other direction -- if your racket points even slightly downwards when looping heavy underspin, the ball will go into the net.

Also, you are hitting way too fast and hard. Just focus on putting the ball back on the table, with a slow and relaxed motion. Doesn't matter if the arc is high.

D09c won't solve the problem of pointing your racket downwards, but switching away from D05 will probably help you play slower and more controlled. Alternatively, you could switch away from your Viscaria -- D05 would be a suitable rubber if you used something like BTY Korbel all-wood blade. D09c is not a slow rubber -- it is rated by Butterfly as being faster than T05.

This is just my opinion, but playing with Viscaria + D05 at your level seems like it is interfering with progress. This is the kind of setup that professionals play with. I'd recommend a slower rubber like H3, or a slower blade made of all wood. H3 will give you more contact time on the ball, and the tackiness will let you lift the ball and feel it as you do so. Personally if I were you, I'd go for Hurricane 3.
 
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Use your legs more instead of your arm/shoulder -- crouch down and think about touching your elbow to your knee before your stroke. You really need to brush the ball upwards instead of forwards.

The most crucial point, though: your racket cannot be angled down, not even a little bit. Your racket should be perpendicular to the floor when making contact, and if you make a slight error, it should be by pointing the racket slightly upwards. Don't make errors in the other direction -- if your racket points even slightly downwards when looping heavy underspin, the ball will go into the net.

Also, you are hitting way too fast and hard. Just focus on putting the ball back on the table, with a slow and relaxed motion. Doesn't matter if the arc is high.

D09c won't solve the problem of pointing your racket downwards, but switching away from D05 will probably help you play slower and more controlled. Alternatively, you could switch away from your Viscaria -- D05 would be a suitable rubber if you used something like BTY Korbel all-wood blade. D09c is not a slow rubber -- it is rated by Butterfly as being faster than T05.

This is just my opinion, but playing with Viscaria + D05 at your level seems like it is interfering with progress. This is the kind of setup that professionals play with. I'd recommend a slower rubber like H3, or a slower blade made of all wood. H3 will give you more contact time on the ball, and the tackiness will let you lift the ball and feel it as you do so. Personally if I were you, I'd go for Hurricane 3.
I've been using this FZD ALC for almost a year now for my daily training and I got used to its feel now and I'm scared to change it again. I've even tried a Butterfly wood blade + Rozena combo of my friend's, yeah sure it was controlled but the feeling of the blade was completely different.
Yeah sure I'll try H3 in my club first before buying one. Thanks :).
 
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But surely you must acknowledge that having a high throw angle helps you play over the table against underspin. And I imagine you don't do a lot of looping from below the table, because this is hard to do with high-throw rubber. Throw angle definitely affects playing style subconsciously, by encouraging the shots that are easier to make with that rubber.

It's objectively harder to flick underspin with a low throw rubber -- you have to generate more lift because your rubber is not giving it to you. Likewise, it is objectively harder to loop from under the table with a high-throw rubber -- you need to be much more precise with your angle. In fact, in some cases the geometry of looping below the table just doesn't work out with high-throw rubber -- the angles are just impossible because you have to close your racket while simultaneously hitting the ball upwards.
I do also like looping from under the table, with W968 D09c, yea its a bit tricky, but what absolutely helps this and it's a killer, is when you brush that ball not just towards up, but side as well, if you brush it both up and side, you can put always much more power into it and it has nice topspin and also side spin
 
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I want to hijack this topic for my own question, as the discussion has been very good so far.

I've recently switched from a light Korbel to a better weighted Korbel Japan. On FH, I have been playing H3 Neo 39 for a while now, but I've been struggling to get good power on my shots.
I've found my slow, spinny opening loop after struggling with a few FH issues for quite a while, and it's a shot I'm now able to easily play whenever I want. Spinny as hell, and it confuses most opponents at my level.

What I don't seem to be producing is dangerous speed. Anything I play faster than a slow, spinny loop is easily blocked which means it is lacking in spin, speed, or both. The balls are *just* clearing the net as well, which doesn't give me a feeling of confidence.

I've been considering two options concerning FH:
- go to a faster blade (Yinhe Pro 01) and stick with a "slower" rubber (H3 or G09c)
- stay with this blade and use a faster, higher-arcing rubber (D09c)

I know both blades, have been playing the Pro 01 here and there so it won't take miles until I get used to it. So the basic question is: faster blade with slower rubber, or slower blade with faster rubber?
 
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I want to hijack this topic for my own question, as the discussion has been very good so far.

I've recently switched from a light Korbel to a better weighted Korbel Japan. On FH, I have been playing H3 Neo 39 for a while now, but I've been struggling to get good power on my shots.
I've found my slow, spinny opening loop after struggling with a few FH issues for quite a while, and it's a shot I'm now able to easily play whenever I want. Spinny as hell, and it confuses most opponents at my level.

What I don't seem to be producing is dangerous speed. Anything I play faster than a slow, spinny loop is easily blocked which means it is lacking in spin, speed, or both. The balls are *just* clearing the net as well, which doesn't give me a feeling of confidence.

I've been considering two options concerning FH:
- go to a faster blade (Yinhe Pro 01) and stick with a "slower" rubber (H3 or G09c)
- stay with this blade and use a faster, higher-arcing rubber (D09c)

I know both blades, have been playing the Pro 01 here and there so it won't take miles until I get used to it. So the basic question is: faster blade with slower rubber, or slower blade with faster rubber?
faster blade definitely, Pro 01 has good speed, it can go with all above rubbers quite well. But for me I'd rather go for faster blade + faster rubber
 
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I want to hijack this topic for my own question, as the discussion has been very good so far.

I've recently switched from a light Korbel to a better weighted Korbel Japan. On FH, I have been playing H3 Neo 39 for a while now, but I've been struggling to get good power on my shots.
I've found my slow, spinny opening loop after struggling with a few FH issues for quite a while, and it's a shot I'm now able to easily play whenever I want. Spinny as hell, and it confuses most opponents at my level.

What I don't seem to be producing is dangerous speed. Anything I play faster than a slow, spinny loop is easily blocked which means it is lacking in spin, speed, or both. The balls are *just* clearing the net as well, which doesn't give me a feeling of confidence.

I've been considering two options concerning FH:
- go to a faster blade (Yinhe Pro 01) and stick with a "slower" rubber (H3 or G09c)
- stay with this blade and use a faster, higher-arcing rubber (D09c)

I know both blades, have been playing the Pro 01 here and there so it won't take miles until I get used to it. So the basic question is: faster blade with slower rubber, or slower blade with faster rubber?
Maybe adjust the technique of the shot to hit through the blade and engage the wood (if you're not doing this already)? Some will do spiny shots by mainly brushing the rubber, which lacks power.

I am not saying this is the case here, just record yourself when hitting and play it to find if the right form is there. I did that recently and surprised myself in a bad way :D I have to adjust my move again.
 
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I've been considering two options concerning FH:
- go to a faster blade (Yinhe Pro 01) and stick with a "slower" rubber (H3 or G09c)
- stay with this blade and use a faster, higher-arcing rubber (D09c)

Definitely agree with the faster blade recommendation, but I'd like to warn you a bit about the D09C. I'm playing with it for 1 month now and my conclusion now is that it's a rubber for profi-players ;-) First, it's not really fast, and Btfly rating here is a marketing. Yes, you can get some speed of it if you hit hard, and it is built for it with its rel. hard sponge. And yes, it is faster than G09C if you hit hard. The sponge is good for what it was built. Anyway, let's not go deeper into this point... More important is its harder top-sheet. I simply am mostly not able to engage it in the "foreseen" way. I often have to play a slower shot, and here I can get more from a softer rubber, like say G09C. Yes, the harder top-sheet has advantages, e.g. for counter-spinning - but how often do I really do it, so that it could out-weight, I mean you can do it with other rubbers too, just perhaps not as optimally... I think there is reason why even T. Boll switched from it...
 
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Definitely agree with the faster blade recommendation, but I'd like to warn you a bit about the D09C. I'm playing with it for 1 month now and my conclusion now is that it's a rubber for profi-players ;-) First, it's not really fast, and Btfly rating here is a marketing. Yes, you can get some speed of it if you hit hard, and it is built for it with its rel. hard sponge. And yes, it is faster than G09C if you hit hard. The sponge is good for what it was built. Anyway, let's not go deeper into this point... More important is its harder top-sheet. I simply am mostly not able to engage it in the "foreseen" way. I often have to play a slower shot, and here I can get more from a softer rubber, like say G09C. Yes, the harder top-sheet has advantages, e.g. for counter-spinning - but how often do I really do it, so that it could out-weight, I mean you can do it with other rubbers too, just perhaps not as optimally... I think there is reason why even T. Boll switched from it...
I think I follow your reasoning here.

Part of why I'm leaning towards D09C is that I like how the harder topsheet of H3 works. I've never been a fan of really springy rubber on FH, as my short game just doesn't work well with that. The limit probably being Fastarc G-1 which was acceptably OK at handling incoming spin without the ball jumping off immediately.

I did NOT like Rakza 7 in this regard. The ball sinks in the topsheet without any effort at all and it will jump out in a way that I find annoying. So either I have to take two steps down in overall rubber performance to get the amount of jumpiness down to what I like and suffer lots of performance drop in other departments (Vega Europe comes to mind) or I go the tacky/hybrid way.
Timo Boll has been playing Tenergy and D05 for ages - I never once had a good experience with Tenergy other than the addictive sound, even 20 years ago. I completely understand he's going back to what he's much more used to playing.
By that logic though, I would go back to pre-tensor :D and I don't really want to do that.

D09C being fast is measured compared to H3 Neo for me, not compared to D05 or any Tenergy. I can imagine its base speed isn't necessarily fast, but definitely more than a H3 even when boosted, right?
I think that pairing G09C on wood will result in it being too slow, and thus not make much of a change in getting my faster balls a little safer arc yet be faster, more dangerous. It might work better on the Pro 01 and make the transition easier, unless there's not as much of a transition as I'm anticipating and just slapping on D09C on Pro 01 would simply work well for me.
 
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With hindsight (that's basically what Werner Schlager suggests in his Glayzer video too) I also should have switched to a faster 1) blade directly instead of trying faster rubbers especially on BH.
Tried a lot rubbers to get more speed but durability, arc, short game, serves or slow, spinny loops never were on par with H3N. Now with H3N on my FH for so long it takes nearly zero time to adapt to a different blade (short game and serves take the most time). For me H3N on a fast blade is still the best compromise between slow enough for the short game and serves but also fast enough to play further back from the table without wasting much energy.

p.s. Glayzer 09C reacts very well to booster/is a very controlled option for BH on a fast blade like the Pro01

1) from Yasaka Ma Lin Extra Offensive to currently 729 Blue Arylate but could be V14Pro, Pro 01, Viscaria or something similar.
 
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D09C being fast is measured compared to H3 Neo for me, not compared to D05 or any Tenergy. I can imagine its base speed isn't necessarily fast, but definitely more than a H3 even when boosted, right?
I think that pairing G09C on wood will result in it being too slow, and thus not make much of a change in getting my faster balls a little safer arc yet be faster, more dangerous. It might work better on the Pro 01 and make the transition easier, unless there's not as much of a transition as I'm anticipating and just slapping on D09C on Pro 01 would simply work well for me.

D09C may be a bit faster than H3, yes. Boosted? Depends how much. And you can boost D09C... For the FH I can gladly go back to H3/alternative though...

Anyway, would I listen if someone told me what I told you? ;-) Making mistakes is equally important... ;-) Do I really regret - no... So, you'll see for yourself... It may work better for you...
 
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I tested Pro 01 and Pro 05 with Hurricane at home and actually got the best feeling on the Pro 05, though both felt good enough to use.
So tonight I took the 05 to the club and played a couple of hours. My opening loops seem to be just as spinny with it, but I can easily put more pace on other balls without having to put a giant effort into the swing itself.
I am pleasantly surprised by how well I played by the end of the night, and how my legs are now the most tired part of my body instead of my arms.

Don't think I need to step up further in base speed, at least not until I'm fully used to this one.
 
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Hello, I am using DHS Hurricane 3 BS on 42 FH, and DHS H3 OS 37 BH, for almost 3 years already.
I love this set up, especially, it is the set up of my idol Chinese Players until I knew friends using DHS before and switch to D09c, and their game is in a different level now. I can always beat them before, but now, it's difficult for me.

I started to doubt my rubbers.haha. and I am thinking that if I switch, I could be efficient too.
My thinking and realization is this, "I am just a club player, maybe intermediate, why force myself to use these dhs for pros? I am not training with a chinese system and like a chinese pro too. Maybe, D09c could be more forgiving if they dont have perfect form and technique. Maybe, there are rubbers that could be efficient and effective just for me and my level as a club intermediate player."

I am using 5ply Allwood blade. What can you say?
 
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Hello, I am using DHS Hurricane 3 BS on 42 FH, and DHS H3 OS 37 BH, for almost 3 years already.
I love this set up, especially, it is the set up of my idol Chinese Players until I knew friends using DHS before and switch to D09c, and their game is in a different level now. I can always beat them before, but now, it's difficult for me.

I started to doubt my rubbers.haha. and I am thinking that if I switch, I could be efficient too.
My thinking and realization is this, "I am just a club player, maybe intermediate, why force myself to use these dhs for pros? I am not training with a chinese system and like a chinese pro too. Maybe, D09c could be more forgiving if they dont have perfect form and technique. Maybe, there are rubbers that could be efficient and effective just for me and my level as a club intermediate player."

I am using 5ply Allwood blade. What can you say?
I would say, upgrade your blade to an inner carbon and keep the rubbers.
 
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