Nittaku Fastarc Series

[JJ Ng]

Since I got some invaluable feedbacks on the thread, "Xiom Vega Series," I decide to start one on the Nittkau Fastarc series.

I have used in various times C-1 and G-1.

I will start with my impression before asking some questions.

I believe C-1 and G-1 share the same top sheet.

Supposedly sponge hardness is G-1 > P-1 > C-1 > S-1.

Overall I feel that the Fastarc series has less catapult effects than say Tenergy fx series (by far), Revolution series (by some margin) and Rakza 7/X soft (by slight margin).

Interestingly, I feel that C-1 has more catapult effect than G-1, with the later just harder sponge and more linear (and therefore less catapult effect).

Topsheets of both C-1 and G-1 are very grippy (but still non-tacky) and are very very durable.

I have never tried P-1 and S-1. So my questions.

Why are S-1 and P-1 less popular than C-1 and G-1?

Why doesn't someone just go from S-1 to C-1 to P-1 to G-1 as their backhand gets stronger? I see people over and over again do what I have done, jumping back and forth between C-1 and G-1 and just ignore S-1 and P-1 completely. I think G-1 forehand and C-1 backhand is also a very popular set-up and I can see the appeal of it except I like hurricane for my forehand.

I thought I heard a rumor that S-1 and P-1 have different top sheets than C-1 and G-1?

Thanks again for any feedback coming my way.

 

[KM1976]

There is a very good review for Fastarc series on blog.tabletennis11.com
You can check that.

 

[JJ Ng]

There is a very good review for Fastarc series on blog.tabletennis11.com
You can check that.

Got it. I put the link below. Yes, it seems that G-1 and C-1 share the same topsheet. The blind finger tests shows that C-1 is harder than MX-P which is hard to believe. I used to have a sheet of MX-P lying around and I have one sheet of MX-S in my hand right now. Yeah, no way C-1 is harder than either MX-P and MX-S. However, the author did say it was a quick blind test just using his fingers pressing on various rubbers and we don't have to agree on everything about a rubber. Roughly accurate is good enough.

Nittaku Fastarc P-1 / G-1 / C-1 / S-1 Table Tennis Rubbers Complete Expert Review

Nittaku Fastarc P-1, Nittaku Fastarc G-1, Nittaku Fastarc C-1 and Nittaku Fastarc S-1 complete in-depth expert review at Tabletennis11.com blog. Have a look!

blog.tabletennis11.com

 

[netdriver]

i had a brief hit with S-1 before (friend's bat)

pretty good control and speed on RPB backhand but lacks power and spin

i find it really consistent and very forgiving. i felt that theres a limit to the rubber's power and spin the harder i hit

another plus to the rubber is that its pretty freaking light

 

[NextLevel]

Got it. I put the link below. Yes, it seems that G-1 and C-1 share the same topsheet. The blind finger tests shows that C-1 is harder than MX-P which is hard to believe. I used to have a sheet of MX-P lying around and I have one sheet of MX-S in my hand right now. Yeah, no way C-1 is harder than either MX-P and MX-S. However, the author did say it was a quick blind test just using his fingers pressing on various rubbers and we don't have to agree on everything about a rubber. Roughly accurate is good enough.

Nittaku Fastarc P-1 / G-1 / C-1 / S-1 Table Tennis Rubbers Complete Expert Review

Nittaku Fastarc P-1, Nittaku Fastarc G-1, Nittaku Fastarc C-1 and Nittaku Fastarc S-1 complete in-depth expert review at Tabletennis11.com blog. Have a look!

blog.tabletennis11.com

Actually, they are very close to being the same topsheet. The sponge is not softer, but there is no reason to believe the MX-P topsheet might not feel that way to someone, especially if the MX-P is fresh and boosted. But as you point out, such subjective tests are not precise measures of anything.

 

[JJ Ng]

Actually, they are very close to being the same topsheet. The sponge is not softer, but there is no reason to believe the MX-P topsheet might not feel that way to someone, especially if the MX-P is fresh and boosted. But as you point out, such subjective tests are not precise measures of anything.

I am just pressing on my MX-S sponge and pressing on C-1 sponge and C-1 sponge feels softer.

But things are not always accurate.

I think the tester said that G-1's sponge is 47.5 degree while C-1's sponge is 45 degree. I feel that G-1 is harder than 47.5 and C-1 is softer than 45. I am pretty sure he gets the numbers from Nittaku. It just to me "that's how those two rubbers feel."

I am happy with all the feedback everyone has!

 

[ben1229]

I only played with G 1, so G 1 is a very good one ! Why I like it? Safe game, good bh rubber for blocking and looping, why I changed to something else? I need more spin on bh .

 

[turbozed]

I am just pressing on my MX-S sponge and pressing on C-1 sponge and C-1 sponge feels softer.

But things are not always accurate.

I think the tester said that G-1's sponge is 47.5 degree while C-1's sponge is 45 degree. I feel that G-1 is harder than 47.5 and C-1 is softer than 45. I am pretty sure he gets the numbers from Nittaku. It just to me "that's how those two rubbers feel."

I am happy with all the feedback everyone has!

C-1 sponge is exactly 45d on my durometer when measuring from the sponge. Measuring from the topsheet yields 48d though. This suggests to me that the topsheet is harder than the sponge by a few degrees.

 

[JJ Ng]

I only played with G 1, so G 1 is a very good one ! Why I like it? Safe game, good bh rubber for blocking and looping, why I changed to something else? I need more spin on bh .

Nice. I used to play with G-1 on my backhand when I was using 5-ply wood. The top sheet is grippy. Do you find Nittaku Z2 to generate more spin than G-1?

 

[ben1229]

Nice. I used to play with G-1 on my backhand when I was using 5-ply wood. The top sheet is grippy. Do you find Nittaku Z2 to generate more spin than G-1?

It's does , but I still need more spin, so now d09c.

 

[jk1980]

If you need more spin than with g-1, changing to Dignics 09c is not the solution. It is definitely an issue with technique rather then the rubber. On top of that only few can exhaust the capabilities of d09c and if you was able to,, then you would not post here

 

[Lazer]

Nice. I used to play with G-1 on my backhand when I was using 5-ply wood. The top sheet is grippy. Do you find Nittaku Z2 to generate more spin than G-1?

If You want a spinnier rubber (ESN) than G1, my vote goes to Tibhar hybrid MK.
It definitely out spins Z2.

Cheers
L-zr

 

[yoass]

Got it. I put the link below. Yes, it seems that G-1 and C-1 share the same topsheet. The blind finger tests shows that C-1 is harder than MX-P which is hard to believe. I used to have a sheet of MX-P lying around and I have one sheet of MX-S in my hand right now. Yeah, no way C-1 is harder than either MX-P and MX-S. However, the author did say it was a quick blind test just using his fingers pressing on various rubbers and we don't have to agree on everything about a rubber. Roughly accurate is good enough.

Nittaku Fastarc P-1 / G-1 / C-1 / S-1 Table Tennis Rubbers Complete Expert Review

Nittaku Fastarc P-1, Nittaku Fastarc G-1, Nittaku Fastarc C-1 and Nittaku Fastarc S-1 complete in-depth expert review at Tabletennis11.com blog. Have a look!

blog.tabletennis11.com

Hardness is a sponge property, whereas your finger is in contact with the top sheet.

That's why Andro's Rasanter R53 feels soft to the touch, even though it has a very hard sponge; and why Fastarc C-1 feels hard, even though it has a soft sponge.

 

[amitmnagarwal]

for BH, Dig 05 would be good option

 

[ben1229]

If you need more spin than with g-1, changing to Dignics 09c is not the solution. It is definitely an issue with technique rather then the rubber. On top of that only few can exhaust the capabilities of d09c and if you was able to,, then you would not post here

Hm, so you think G 1, can generated more spin than d09c? Try it mid Long distance BH hand loop, you will find the answer, I played G 1 more then 3+years, after I changed my blade from vis to 968, mid Long distance G 1, is like can't push the ball anymore, then I change to z2, arc too flat, then d09c.

 

[M.Hoang]

Hm, vậy bạn nghĩ G 1 có thể tạo ra nhiều spin hơn d09c không? Hãy thử cú giật tay BH khoảng cách trung bình, bạn sẽ tìm thấy câu trả lời, tôi đã chơi G 1 hơn 3 năm, sau khi tôi đổi cốt vợt của mình từ vis sang 968, giữa Khoảng cách dài G 1, giống như không thể đẩy bóng được nữa , sau đó tôi đổi thành z2, cung quá phẳng, rồi d09c.

d09c is so different when compare to G1, feeling is defferent, d09c is sticky and hard sponge, G1 is grippy and has hard topsheet. With little and medium effort i think G1 is spinny, with big effort d09c is better

 

[ben1229]

d09c is so different when compare to G1, feeling is defferent, d09c is sticky and hard sponge, G1 is grippy and has hard topsheet. With little and medium effort i think G1 is spinny, with big effort d09c is better

Yeah, I didn't campare them, I change rubbers for what I need .

 

[jk1980]

Hm, so you think G 1, can generated more spin than d09c?

No, because that would be factually untrue. You can generate more spin with D09c than with the G-1 if your technique is properly adjusted for that.
This comes with a few drawbacks: If you are out of position, the amount of spin you will be able to generate with some sloppy execution will be higher with the G-1.

In training people attested great spin with the D09c when looping hard and they said "wow, great spin for that compact swing", but that obviously does not translate to match play at all, where most shots are not played while being in perfect position.

@ben1229: I do not know your level and don't want to talk down on your skill without having seen you play, but let me give you a little anecdote from a player i talked to.
He is pretty much a table tennis veteran already (but still in his 30s) and told me that he is considering changing from the d09c to something else, because it is too stressing to play with and needs too much training (he already plays pretty much every day).
This player is a former romanian champion in table tennis and has placed third in the european championship with his team in past decades. He played in the first german league in the past, but in the current season he plays in the second bundesliga (2nd german league). His german rating is above 2200, which probably translates to a >2500 rating in the U.S. at least.

You can review a few of his last matches at tournaments while the league is on summer break. He is the guy in green in the first video and in black with red and white stripes in the other two videos.

Perhaps you are better or have a better hand and touch than him or are more talented, then by all means use the d09c or whatever makes you happy.
If nothing changed recently he should still play with a viscaria and d05 BH and d09c forehand, so his setup already has more "power" than yours, but he still thinks it is quite challenging.

Try it mid Long distance BH hand loop, you will find the answer, I played G 1 more then 3+years, after I changed my blade from vis to 968, mid Long distance G 1, is like can't push the ball anymore,

Changing from an outer carbon to an inner carbon blade is of course going to require you to change technique and changing from G-1 on an outer carbon to d09c on an inner carbon basically takes away a lot of power that formerly was generated by the material (blade and sponge) that now has to be generated by your body. If you really are saying that you can not use the push technique (usually only used over the table, because everything long you ought to loop) from mid long distance then this might be down to a lack of correct technique and power generation from the body. I suspect you mean something else. Do you have a video of what fails with the d09c that would easily work with the G-1 ?

then I change to z2, arc too flat, then d09c.

These two (d09c and z2) are not very comparable, that is why i am questioning if what you are doing is probably a little misdirected EJ'ing. If you want to go into a direction where it is easier to play than d09c while maintaining great spin capability i would take a good look at the rakza Z which is way easier to play and still more spinny than G-1.

 

[ben1229]

No, because that would be factually untrue. You can generate more spin with D09c than with the G-1 if your technique is properly adjusted for that.
This comes with a few drawbacks: If you are out of position, the amount of spin you will be able to generate with some sloppy execution will be higher with the G-1.

In training people attested great spin with the D09c when looping hard and they said "wow, great spin for that compact swing", but that obviously does not translate to match play at all, where most shots are not played while being in perfect position.

@ben1229: I do not know your level and don't want to talk down on your skill without having seen you play, but let me give you a little anecdote from a player i talked to.
He is pretty much a table tennis veteran already (but still in his 30s) and told me that he is considering changing from the d09c to something else, because it is too stressing to play with and needs too much training (he already plays pretty much every day).
This player is a former romanian champion in table tennis and has placed third in the european championship with his team in past decades. He played in the first german league in the past, but in the current season he plays in the second bundesliga (2nd german league). His german rating is above 2200, which probably translates to a >2500 rating in the U.S. at least.

You can review a few of his last matches at tournaments while the league is on summer break.

Perhaps you are better or have a better hand and touch than him or are more talented, then by all means use the d09c or whatever makes you happy.
If nothing changed recently he should still play with a viscaria and d05 BH and d09c forehand, so his setup already has more "power" than yours, but he still thinks it is quite challenging.


Changing from an outer carbon to an inner carbon blade is of course going to require you to change technique and changing from G-1 on an outer carbon to d09c on an inner carbon basically takes away a lot of power that formerly was generated by the material (blade and sponge) that now has to be generated by your body. If you really are saying that you can not use the push technique (usually only used over the table, because everything long you ought to loop) from mid long distance then this might be down to a lack of correct technique and power generation from the body. I suspect you mean something else. Do you have a video of what fails with the d09c that would easily work with the G-1 ?



These two (d09c and z2) are not very comparable, that is why i am questioning if what you are doing is probably a little misdirected EJ'ing. If you want to go into a direction where it is easier to play than d09c while maintaining great spin capability i would take a good look at the rakza Z which is way easier to play and still more spinny than G-1.

You just talk too much, did I compared these rubbers? I just let JJ know why I change G1, to Z2, and then d09c, is that bother you? I don't have to show you how I play, cuz I'm 40+, if you wanna know how I play, I'm in NYC.

 

[jk1980]

You just talk too much, did I compared these rubbers? I just let JJ know why I change G1, to Z2, and then d09c, is that bother you? I don't have to show you how I play, cuz I'm 40+, if you wanna know how I play, I'm in NYC.

you falsely suggested that i would have implied that g-1 can generate more spin than d09c. If you don't want a response, then don't put words into other people's mouth