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Hide it's generally more flexible than PVA, at least in a first stage. They are both water based so they still lift the wood fibers and hold to them, but hide it's water soluble while PVA is not. The thing is PVA remains stable after it dries, but Hide will continue to harden and shrink throughout its life. So in the first stages its more flexible, while it still has some moisture content, but eventually it gets hard and brittle.I can always rely on you to answer with great nuance and accuracy. Thanks again.
And yes, PVA glue. Lol. Maybe someone should try 5000 psi epoxy some time. Lol.
I did not know Hide glue was more flexible than PVA glue. Perhaps its that hide glue create a non-penetrating layer of bond rather than PVA glue's method of soaking into food fibers that makes
Hide glue blades a bit harder (but in a clear way rather than dull and sharp)? A bit like listening to open-back headphones versus speakers in an untreated room.
Have you tried the whole burnt layer wood thingy like the Victas Swat? I was googling the wood hardness changes with heat and did not know certain temperatures (with short exposure) causes wood to harden but after a certain point, they actually get softer. Who knew.
I would love to read a book on all the details of your blade making nuance findings.
The only experience I have with with "burnt wood" is with Thermo Treated Ash in my handles. Every wood has a residue water content, even the ones that are kiln dried, this process removes that last bit of moisture and it becomes literally dry. It also "cooks" and removes the natural wood oils, which closes the pores to some degree, this increases the density and the hardness, but it doesn't turn into a completely different wood. It's a bit like Limba vs Framiré, Framiré is lighter than Limba but slightly harder and more brittle, but playing wise the difference is not so big, it's still softer than Koto.
I would love to read that book too 😂.