Short review of Glayzer 09c

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Since I am researching. Mind look into Tibhar Hybrid MK. Some good to great reviews feedback on it. Says to be similar to G09c. And a better transition than of the K3 version. Said to have a durability of 3 months but drops in the drive after a while.

For me that is better than a 3-50 that doesn't last a month and added cost for boost. So the cost x longevity is better from where I live, since you should get atleast over a months playtime with atleast 4 playtimes a week.
 
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Since I am researching. Mind look into Tibhar Hybrid MK. Some good to great reviews feedback on it. Says to be similar to G09c. And a better transition than of the K3 version. Said to have a durability of 3 months but drops in the drive after a while.

For me that is better than a 3-50 that doesn't last a month and added cost for boost. So the cost x longevity is better from where I live, since you should get atleast over a months playtime with atleast 4 playtimes a week.
I didn't like the H3-50 at all, for me it's the worst DHS rubber. I liked the Glazer 09C out of the box, but after two weeks it became smaller in size and stopped playing as it did at the beginning. I tried pumping it with air, but it didn't give a result. Apparently it also requires a booster...
 
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I didn't like the H3-50 at all, for me it's the worst DHS rubber. I liked the Glazer 09C out of the box, but after two weeks it became smaller in size and stopped playing as it did at the beginning. I tried pumping it with air, but it didn't give a result. Apparently it also requires a booster...

A little update got the Tihbar Hybrid MK, said to be 48 degrees. Choose a 2.0 mm instead of Max.


Also got the Glayzer09c 1.9 mm said to be 50-52 degrees.


These were fitted on a Allround Allplay v2 each both black rubber BS.

Was fitted with a 3-50 (Soft) 37.

Now I can't really recommend either for intermediate players unless you are active and have a stronger wrist or can generate more power.

As the review stated the MK (K3s little brother) isn't really equipped with tensor. The problem with MK is that this one was to soft. Both on my Allround and Donic Dicon.

Played 3 weeks now.

The thing I hate about reviews is that there isn't a point on turning a backspinn or putting forward momentum on a rotationless ball.

The MK is friendly but dead. It is funny how he says it grips and gives spinn. Well duh. Regular shots aprox 0.5-1 m off table with a regular stroke YES. But those are standard. That is the basis that should just be mandatory.

Problem with the MK is slippage when trying to lift the ball without overcompensating.

Either there needs to be tensor, stickyness.

The TT review is bs. There is no way this rubber is considered 48. It is similar to Rakza 7 (Soft) and Donic rubbers a bit. It is through and through softer.

Extremly frustrating with no grip on not so dangers balls you wanted to grip and flip more than use the blades power. Especially without needing to overdo it. Even with going over to concave on the Dicon blade which gives me more rotation with its smaller handle up top to mid compared to the Allplay straight.

Having less volume hand and fingers this is an issue.

I got my eyes on XIOM Vega Pro or XIOM Vego Euro Hybrid

My mate has these on a carb on his BH and while testing I could flip any medium+ spinn with ease. Wasn't the fastest but it sure is a better starting point.

Also ordered the BS H3 39 Prov. Since same club mate had the 41 and another dude got me and another mate who plays H3 to try his Viscaria with BS H3 39 Nat. Was very nice.

The Glayzer09c 1.9 in comparison. It is harder and doesn't play well, same slippage if not worse. Had a bit more power and less dwell.

I am really not a fan of the Tenergy and Dignics series on the BH. Only rubber I might like is the Tenergy 19 but the Tenergy sponge just feel soulless and or the rubber in general.

The Glayzer09c might before better at 2.1 mm but honestly, weighing comparing weights and asking myself if 0.2 mm would make a difference on these rubbers I think the Glayzer09c might get a minimal help but they have opposite issues.

While the MK is to much of nothing the Glayzer09c while suppose to be softer than Dignics09c it is still hard, too hard for lifting or just BH flipping.

Want to add an update on my progress. Going over to the Dicon is the right choice. It feels like a OFF- compared to the Allplay.

The little more speed helps but the concave handle shines for me. Able to pull out more rotation in the hand and I dont know if it is a combination of the wood, layers too but I got a easier time blocking because I can rotate more around the incoming ball touch.

Same goes for BH play and FH. Since it is concave. I get to add more roll around in BH so rubbers which doesn't have bite I help but it was hard or impossible still with the MK and Glayzer09c.

Another thing was serves, more bounce both blade and had a hard time finding a light brush technique it was easier to do exagerated serves that was easier to read but atleast then I could produce something challenging. The MK was far worse in service.

I got to rematch some peeps and won with this setup first time and got some thight games versus good people that beat me before.

I know BS will liberate me and take me to the next level because no H3 has the dynamic range as a prov or nat H3 BS rubber.

Question remains what BH rubber to use.

My eyeballs are on the XIOM, even the Jekyll & Hyde (Caledrano) since if XIOM has similar characteristics like other brands through their own series there should be something like the Vega Pro/Euro Hybrid but a bit faster, if that is less mm with bottoming into the racket or more tensor surface IDK.

I think Tihbar works just not the one I got. Yet I want something with more oumph out of the rubber. I need more grip without needing to go att 85-100% on each stroke.

I think the lift test and turning a medium-hard backspinn his the test to go.

The K3 is in a corner as is actually Stiga Hybrid however I do believe Stiga in general is to hard(sponge) and perhaps too much tensor.

Then we have Donic which I used to play with 15 years ago. However had a contact condeming all of the Blue series and tested used Acuda s2 on a Donic Dicob. Played versus.

Looks more extrem than the punch is atleast for used Acuda s2.

Donic rubbers said to last 2 weeks.
 
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Tackiness+ euro sponge = high throw that's why they reduce tackiness because when your opponent start to spin you will not block him or counter play
his spin plus
+ kick from table and your force and tackiness and throw will give you headache to put the ball on the table...
I have Tuttle g20 president and it is sticky but not spin sensitive
 
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Tackiness+ euro sponge = high throw that's why they reduce tackiness because when your opponent start to spin you will not block him or counter play
his spin plus
+ kick from table and your force and tackiness and throw will give you headache to put the ball on the table...
I have Tuttle g20 president and it is sticky but not spin sensitive

Well maybe versus higher tier players or level then. The blue sponge (22?) Hurricane those I have tried isn't as sticky, perhaps why but I know after trying it is the combination of other things that makes that rubber into a beast.

You can choose to remove or add spinn without it bouncing too much and we did loop rally with ease with the BS because while it is a beast it has extrem control even on carb wood blades.

Regarding not controlling. I only notice that some rubber constellations has that but for me it is not exactly what you say not taking away you are right.

My H3N 3-50 "Soft" 37 after the main tacky is gone it bounce quite much.

Neo was even worse.

BS prov or nat has such a mushy sponge and a softer outer rubber that absorbs more and it has more tensor even tho it says it is a linnear chinease it is not.

I get if you go from a rubber you have or a rubber that rebound mimic the opposing spinn you don't need to do much of nothing.

Every other week I meet someone that has a rubber that can just hold down the racket at the table and delete my loop drives.

Sure the 3-50 with me behind on a ALL might generate more spinn than forward power, atleast not enough.

But I know with the extra gears in the BS it will be easier but I have met great rubbers so I am not sure I will be able to power through some players/rubbers.

My H3N mate does power through already and his effect with the BS is nasty.

I just don't believe the impossibility of not combinding the two.

Rakza 7 Soft would be a better rubber with more stickyness. Many months later I would have hoped for a more mushy sponge since the catapult removes any ability to slice the slightes hard ball. It is easier to play with less mm and you don't need the 2.3 mm.

Think this is the reason why the X or regular is more popular amongs better players.
 
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Hi, @AdamH! I think that the difference in sponge thickness between 1.9 and 2.1 will be significant. At least I feel the difference between 2.0 and 2.2 mm for other rubbers, such as H3 and J3. For me, it's just night and day. 2.0 does not play the way I need it to. Less dwell time, speed and spin, the ball has a flatter trajectory.
As for the Glazer 09C, it plays out of the box, then it becomes hard. After applying one layer of booster, the original sensations return halfway and I can play with it. On one of my blades (quite fast, flexible with internal reinforcement and a soft surface) I use G09C with a boost on the backhand. The topsheet is very tenacious and I have no problems with sharp movements - the ball does not fall off, but as for the blocks and high-speed pressure on the opponent, this is not the best option.
 
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Hi, @AdamH! I think that the difference in sponge thickness between 1.9 and 2.1 will be significant. At least I feel the difference between 2.0 and 2.2 mm for other rubbers, such as H3 and J3. For me, it's just night and day. 2.0 does not play the way I need it to. Less dwell time, speed and spin, the ball has a flatter trajectory.
As for the Glazer 09C, it plays out of the box, then it becomes hard. After applying one layer of booster, the original sensations return halfway and I can play with it. On one of my blades (quite fast, flexible with internal reinforcement and a soft surface) I use G09C with a boost on the backhand. The topsheet is very tenacious and I have no problems with sharp movements - the ball does not fall off, but as for the blocks and high-speed pressure on the opponent, this is not the best option.

What mm on the Glayzer09c do you have?

Yes I believe the Glayzer09c will ne better at perhaps more mm but then again the mm is so insignificant on paper.

Because blade and power isn't the same as sticky grip or tensor grip.

As I said before it is not the regular shots for me that is the issue it is the tempo fatigue balls, speed or rotation (power) -less that you just want to lift regular over (on BH) and I get slippage on both the Tihbar MK and the Glayzer09c.

I even tried to roll thr blade more due to the concave helps me to add more rotation but it slips, no grip.

Not as bad as Rakza 7 Soft Max or less mm but still.

The Tihbar got switched blade and shrink a little in size the Glayzer09c doesn't seemed to have lessen in size.

I got a bit of trauma boosting the H3 Neo 37 Soft. While the sponge might have soften the outer layer got extremely hard which made it impossible to loop close cross without it going long due to its Jekyll and Hyde difference between sponge softness versus rubber hardness.

So me adding a layer on the Glayzer09c I am afraid it will have the same effect even though I think the Glayzer09c might be softer and with one layer could be within reason.

However I remain skeptical.

Also I notice the lack of speed and depth between a lower mm and max för Rakza 7 Soft but still. My brain can't process that slippage should be due to that.

My theory on my two rubbers is as follows.

First regarding both. Speed (force) (weight) and wrist (rotation) (speed)

The Tihbar is similar to Rakza 7 Soft, but I was suprised it wasn't more dynamic and had more grip. The ball goes in but lack thightness. Tihbar has shrunk so booster might help it not because of the sponge it is already soft more about thighten the surface rubber however if it is like Rakza 7 Soft it won't matter because it might not have the mechanical tensor to be activated in lifts or more gentle rotation.

While I have tried K3, Rakza X Soft and Especially Xiom rubbers which could overturn medium to harder backspinn easier and even not be point blank on the rubber which some Tenergy, BF rubbers demand. Which I also notice a bit with the Glayzer09c as to the Dignics09c even tho they are not close to the T05 or T64 demands.

So help me out. Also it might be true about the mm but I don't see it with all rubbers.

Donic rubbers seem to do well or better and doesn't need max mm.

For bad rubbers you have Dragon Grip 55. Wouldn't do better neither the size it is just a bad rubber.

And just to clarify. If you have a good catapult in your arm and or wrist, better than mine which most should have I suspect the Glayzer09c works just fine. Me I just dont want that slippage and lose shitty easy points due to no grip. Also don't want to need to spray a new rubber each session just because it can't carry itself.

And yes you plant doubt in my head about there should be vast difference between mm but I can't see it since it is so small, atleast not for gentle grip.

Because is there no tensor or sticky the depth might help but then we talk force or softness and it would be incredible if the 1.9 Glayzer09c lacked that mm that would help slipage from happening.

As for the Tihbar the same but I can feel the thickness in the K3 or Xiom and they feel like there is room in the max so one should not need max in this case, we don't talk a powershot here.

Also played H3 3-50 37 on BS which I felt the same. Noneed for that thickness if you don't power through. Just felt clumsey duelling dubble H3Ns. Due to their weight and going max 2x. Feels a little too thick. Mainly since I don't rock normal strength even if I built up more the last 6-7 months since I came back.

I am looking into buying a couple of new rubbers but Max feels like a overkill. Works to play with the 2.1(2.15) H3N.

If it were up to me I'd rock 2x 2mm just for the slimm feel and more light weight feel.

Cost a bundle to buy 3-4 sets of rubbers with 3x thickness.
 
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So help me out.
Well I like Fastarс G1 for backhand. I used to play Vega Pro and Rakza 7 for quite a long time and I can say that G1 is much better for me. In fact, G1 will probably be too hard for backhand for many, but the combination of rubber and blade is important here. On a blade with internal reinforcement and a soft surface, G1 plays great, on a blade with koto and external carbon it is hard for backhand, I don’t like it.
Addition. Fastarс G1 does not play out of the box. It needs several training sessions to be thoroughly broken in.
 
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Well I like Fastarс G1 for backhand. I used to play Vega Pro and Rakza 7 for quite a long time and I can say that G1 is much better for me. In fact, G1 will probably be too hard for backhand for many, but the combination of rubber and blade is important here. On a blade with internal reinforcement and a soft surface, G1 plays great, on a blade with koto and external carbon it is hard for backhand, I don’t like it.
Addition. Fastarс G1 does not play out of the box. It needs several training sessions to be thoroughly broken in.
I envy the guys who can play this hard on BH. I wonder if it is because of your height also and not just the strength or agility in the wrist.

I can't stand to hard or shallow rubbers. I mean I can brush a ball so minimal on my FH but would mind not playing so shallow on the surface and straight.
 
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Keeping alive this thread with a new question/opinion.

I tried a used (but still good, grip was ok) Glayzer 09c max on my FH.
I'm no high level player, but my FH is decent: I can feel what I'm doing right or wrong, choose different kind of top spin, modulate arc, etc....

Tried it with a 90g Clipper: feel different than my Omega V Tour, need a bit to adjust paddle angle, but in the end I was able to perform good shot, spinny and fast.
I felt a good dwell time that helped me to hit safe and "consciously".
When hit with full body movement speed was ok; when played more passively (only with arm swing) it needed some adjustment and was not so reliable, but a good compromise.

Tried with 3+2 carbon blade (very stiff): no dwell time, feel absolutely dead when not played with full commitment.
Felt quite impossible to perform slow/brushed spinny loop.
It was good only on full power stroke; once you forget to push with feet/abs or you're tired :) shot quality drops dramatically.

Anyone had similar experience? So much difference from an allwood blade to a carbon one with this rubber?
 
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One thing I absolutely didn't like about the Glayzers is the feel, this was similar on all blades I tried. So I kind of agree with You on this one. I gave up on it....
I finally found DHS Hurricane 3 (non neo variant). and haven't looked back since.

Cheers
L-zr
 
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To be honest the feeling with Clipper was not bad, just different.
You have to get used to, but in the end I found the way to do all my shot-range.

With carbon blade I could only perform 6/7 powerloop in a row and then, at first one a bit tired, ball went always into the net.
In a match, on backspin ball, I had no feeling to slow/brush topspin and missed 70% of medium topspin.
Disaster! :D
 
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I use glayzer 09c (2.1) on the backhand with FZD alc and dignics 9c (2.1) on the forehand. A good pairing, plenty of control and spin with reasonable speed.
 
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