Struggling to drive the ball after change to chinese rubber

[yogi_bear]

Yes that is the one i am using. 3 layers of falco.

I will not use the example of the cnt team because they are using a heavily boosted h3 that plays almost like a medium fast tensor rubber. If a user is just using an ordinary h3 especially a non boosted one that is a different story. It has a tendency to hit the net if you hit it flat. I think we have different definitions of brushing the ball. I define brushing with various degrees of wrist movement and degrees of contact on the ball (depth ). Brushing the ball is not necessarily the same as looping it. You can even brush the ball with no wrist action. My point is as a whole in using Chinese rubbers, a brush action is necessary because the tackiness of the H3 for example dissipates some of the energy of the incoming ball therefore the ball goes down . When you are drilling with an H3 it seems to be just very easy to use and you think it is easy not to make mistakes with it even smashing or multiballs but when you are in a matchplay you will realize that adding a brush or extra spin to your strokes is not only necessary but also a logical way to do so. Not only you have better control because of the arc produced by brushing the ball ( because the ball dips in the table instead of going straight , less chance of going out) but also you have to utilize the spin capability of H3 or any other Chinese rubber. It is only logical to use it with spin because it is built for spin.

 

[CroneOne]

Is it the case now that using hard, Chinese rubber is going backwards? If you need a larger stroke to get spin and pace on the ball it won't help you in the modern, plastic ball era. Spin seems to be less of a weapon compared to the older game. Everything now is about quick, compact strokes, close to the table. If you can get extra juice from a tensor with a smaller stroke, it may be an advantage.

 

[yogi_bear]

Chinese rubbers are maximized by the use of a full swing and not compact strokes unless the ball is too fast and you near the tabke that you are out of position to react. As what I have said, spin was affected by ball change but boosting the rubber will greatly help.

 

[ZhouZhekai]

Yes that is the one i am using. 3 layers of falco.

I will not use the example of the cnt team because they are using a heavily boosted h3 that plays almost like a medium fast tensor rubber. If a user is just using an ordinary h3 especially a non boosted one that is a different story. It has a tendency to hit the net if you hit it flat. I think we have different definitions of brushing the ball. I define brushing with various degrees of wrist movement and degrees of contact on the ball (depth ). Brushing the ball is not necessarily the same as looping it. You can even brush the ball with no wrist action. My point is as a whole in using Chinese rubbers, a brush action is necessary because the tackiness of the H3 for example dissipates some of the energy of the incoming ball therefore the ball goes down . When you are drilling with an H3 it seems to be just very easy to use and you think it is easy not to make mistakes with it even smashing or multiballs but when you are in a matchplay you will realize that adding a brush or extra spin to your strokes is not only necessary but also a logical way to do so. Not only you have better control because of the arc produced by brushing the ball ( because the ball dips in the table instead of going straight , less chance of going out) but also you have to utilize the spin capability of H3 or any other Chinese rubber. It is only logical to use it with spin because it is built for spin.

Generally when i counterloop somewhat close to the table i tend to hit the ball somewhat frontal somehow there is some spin on the abll. Would you advise that in the long term i should brush counter loop somehwat like Zhang Jike?

 

[zeio]

There's a problem with the OP's form. It's not an issue of wrist or brushing, it's the stroke itself.

 

[hipnotic]

There's a problem with the OP's form. It's not an issue of wrist or brushing, it's the stroke itself.

I agree with this. I thinks his arm his way too stiff and far way from the body. To do a proper drive the OP should have the elbow more tucked in to the body a let the forearm lead the movement.

I also agree with yogi_bear that a brushing movement should be used. In this case i would describe it as a more diagonal trajectory of the arm. With a tensor rubber the arm is more horizontal (back to forward). The timing is also important, if you catch the ball right after the bounce you can just direct it were you want it, however if you let the ball fall you will have to impart more power to the stroke.

 

[Der_Echte]

OP named the title struggling to return...

I am struggling to comprehend that despite 1,382 different threads on boosting a rubber, we still have to ask about it.

 

[eduardo1995filipe]

By the way Eduardo, I am a long time Hurricane 3, Globe 999 National and now Vega China user for the forehand. Shifting to the polyball really hurt my style. With the celluloid ball even just thin contact brushing can win you a lot of points before nowadays you need to hit through the sponge while brushing it. One thing you must realize with a Chinese rubber is that, it has the tendency to hit the net especially if you are hitting it flat. I do not know just because a drive is a drive it should be restricted to having no spin people will say to not add spin to it. Let me tell you from experience, adding spin to the drive creates an arc. That arcs makes the ball clear the net better than not adding spin to it.

Yeah I agree with you yogi_bear, spin on drives gives more consistency on the drive!

 

[eduardo1995filipe]

The difference can be due to stock. Older stock is more tacky. New stock has lost about half the tackiness. I saw a guy with a new sheet of H3, looks like Euro non tacky rubber.

Passionate about TT

Well, that new H3 it's much more physical demanding in my opinion didn't like it at all.

 

[eduardo1995filipe]

There's a problem with the OP's form. It's not an issue of wrist or brushing, it's the stroke itself.

I agree with this. I thinks his arm his way too stiff and far way from the body. To do a proper drive the OP should have the elbow more tucked in to the body a let the forearm lead the movement.

I also agree with yogi_bear that a brushing movement should be used. In this case i would describe it as a more diagonal trajectory of the arm. With a tensor rubber the arm is more horizontal (back to forward). The timing is also important, if you catch the ball right after the bounce you can just direct it were you want it, however if you let the ball fall you will have to impart more power to the stroke.

Yeah you're right, but the video is 3 years old. As i said in the beginning of the thread , I've improved a lot my technique, arm it's more together to the body, and I use much more rotation in the elbow, and I use a loose grip every time I hit the ball(ST handle didn't helped my much in that departement, was what I used in that video). Unfortunately I don't have a actual video to show how I play now :/

 

[yogi_bear]

Brushing is essential part of using Chinese rubber. It is the one that sets apart using the H3 in a maximized way or using it in a mediocre way.

 

[man_iii]

I agree on the wristy brushing and bigger arm swing and last minute hip flex and the more open bat angle with Chinese rubbers!

For me as a beginner player that last bit of contact with wrist and closing the racket angle varying with height of ball above the net ... it is soooo frustrating! With Euro rubbers small compact strokes and wrist brushes give excellent feedback ... but with Chinese rubbers i have to "just swing" and hope to god the rubber doesnt kick the ball too high or shoot it too long .... is that becos of QC ? Or my technique ? I dont know :-D