What other rubbers different than Rozenas on all wood blade?

[disaster3]

Hello my friends! 🙂
Could you let me know of different rubbers than Rozenas for technique improvement on all wood blade?
Is Vega Pro(FH)/Europe (BH) or FastArc G-1(FH)/C-1(BH) are the good choices.
I need to do 1 step back to do in the future 2 steps ahead and use all potential with stuffs I’ve already owned….
The all wood blade is also considered as Acoustic/Violin/Korbel JP
I have already acoustic but it is too light for me 77g would like to have at least 88g.
Please let me know if my rubbers provided above and blades and oils be the good choice or maybe I should look at something different.
Thanks in advance!

 

[Wrighty67]

I have had better experience with Rozena on all wood, than I have with Vega Pro. I like G1 but it feels less dynamic than Rozena to me, especially on a slower blade.

 

[disaster3]

no one else ;/ 🤔🥺

 

[JJ Ng]

no one else ;/ 🤔🥺

I am surprised you are not getting more traction.

I have used Vega X but not Vega Pro. I have used Vega Europe, G-1, and C-1.

If you go by the rule that your forehand side should be a couple degrees harder than your backhand side, then Vega Pro FH/Vega Europe BH and G-1 FH/C-1 BH would be perfect.

G-1 used to be 2.0mm asa the max sponge thickness. Now there is 2.2mm possibly as max sponge. I would recommend, if you want to work on your techniques, then go with G-1 2.0mm sponge and don't get the max sponge.

If longevity is a concern, then choose G-1 and C-1. They just last forever and would not die.

Vega Pro/Vega Europe might be slightly cheaper though and they last a very long time as well.

You cannot go wrong with either choices.

 

[Doum]

I have the Korbel and IMO you can't go wrong with any rubber. It's a very good blade with lots of feelings.

Just be carefull with the rubber weight, it can be head heavy.

 

[disaster3]

I have already ordered OSP Virtuoso+ with RST handle (preferable) with weight 88-90g. I was looking for heavier Nittaku Acoustic SG - ST but everywhere was out of stock and the next thing to get the weight I wanted… I gave up. OSP is the similar quality as Nittaku with much lower price and customizable as you want… thus I went for V+. About the rubbers I’m still thinking and waiting for others inputs.
For OSP blade will be waiting at least week or 10 days, rubbers are available now.

 

[disaster3]

Currently I’m on my short vacation in my birth town and visited local tennis club everyday from Tuesday till Friday. I was really frustrated and pis*** off what I was playing. Couldn’t control anything single shots was excellent and awesome but it didn’t make me happy as consistency was really poor… used to play with hybrid/Chinese rubbers but I think I can’t control it, too (D09C/G1 on FZD ALC), changed to my 2nd blade Nittaku Acoustic with wrongly (stretched) glued T64/T05 and it was disaster…. Bouncy/Springy, I’m used to receive serves with D09C which is more dead than t64 and on t64 ball flew uncontrollable…. There was a little to f…. that in the corner and finished with it…. I have to rethink everything as too much is too bad. Still don’t know what to put on OSP blade. Sometimes when I get my super powered FZD blade and can do everything and next time I struggle with simple shots….
Yeah patient is important but have to find my starting point and this is not so easy. 🥺😕

 

[Wakkibatty]

For what it's worth, I find that with all wood blades, differences in blade speed have a greater effect than differences in rubber speed.

This is less the case with composite blades, as regardless of what type of reinforcing fabric you use, it all puts a solid "floor" under the blade's speed.

In my experience, it's actually very hard to find a genuinely slow composite blade -- the composite layers affect playing feel and feedback far more than they do the spin and speed of a blade. For this reason you tend to get a LOT more variation in speed with all wood blades than with composites.

Many times I have made multiple identical blades, using identical woods that were taken from identical boards, that *still* have surprisingly large differences in their rebound speed during bounce tests.

These differences are usually due to the considerable density changes / differences that typically exist in almost all low-density, fast growing timber species (ie: the same wood most of the world's table tennis blades are made of).

Long story short...

...if you ever suspect a particular all-wood blade/rubber combo hypothetically might be a good match for you...

...but the end result is somehow disappointing, try measuring and weighing the bare blade on its own (to determine it's mass, and by extension its average density), and then go looking for a lighter/heavier example of the exact same blade.

While none of the larger TT brands will admit it -- the weight, density and speed of all-wood blades are *always* going to vary a fair amount from blade to blade. There is actually very little they can do to stop it from happening --it's not their fault; it's just a combination of mother nature and physics at work.

The *only* way a bladesmith can guarantee the average density (and by extension speed) of an all-wood blade, is to measure the individual weight and density of **every single piece of timber it's made from** beforehand, and then only using pieces of timber which has the specific density you're after.

Smaller custom Bladesmiths like myself can do this fairly easily, but it does involve a price premium, as you're typically picking the eyes out of your own wood stocks to do it. Larger mass-produced brands however can't (or else won't) do it, as their whole business model is built around volume. Selling mass-produced blades based around a set density is just commercially impossible - wood density simply varies too much to make it commercially feasible.

 

[Der_Echte]

An ALL+ to OFF- blade, when facing some topspin at the endline... can be one damn powerful setup... which mis what matters to non-developed players when they form opions.

PLUS 1 there.

What really matters to the development for feel of spin is EASE of penetration to topsheet/sponge... which SOFT sponge MODERN DYNAMIC rubbers excel in...

My signature setup is one of one thousand possible appropriate setups that nudge you to feel the ball and go for spin impact.

Such blades over time can help a player feel the ball better and make more consistent quality topspin shots... that adds up.

 

[TackyForehand]

I vote for Nittaku Violin with Vega Pro (FH)/Europe (BH).

No matter what setup you choose, stick with it. Your technique and muscle memory is intricately linked to your equipment. Change one and you have to change the other.

 

[SFF_lib]

One important question - what is your level? If you are in your first years, equipments don't matter much.

 

[disaster3]

@Wakkibatty ,

thanks for information about the blades creation and what might impact in feeling even in the same line of blades. At this moment I have old Primorac JP FL (weight = 87.44g) and Nittaku Acoustic ST (weight = 79.08g) . Waiting for the 3rd allwood blade from OSP Virtuoso+ (asked for weight = 88-90g)
To measure the freq of such blades I read that even using iPhone and proper app (analyzer) can check the freq. But not sure the procedure should I follow. Read that I should drop the ball on the blade (don't know whether is proper approach) and next thing that the program in free version don't have recording to catch the highest value measured, and the freq is changing very fast during the measure which is the problem to catch on eye
found other app and results are very surprising
Primorac JP heavier 88g - 1206hz as OFF-
Acoustic lighter 79g - 1186hz as OFF

Seems that initially slower Primorac (based on paper statistic) is a bit faster due to weight than Acoustic. I’m not an expert but 20hz matters in terms of speed?

@Der_Echte ,
thanks for your input. Based on above which should I pick as they seem to be very similar to each other and only the small preferences can win than this over that... I'm thinking of FastArc series G-1/C-1 due to their excellent durability and ease to play but also thinking about Rozenas,

@TackyForehand ,

thanks will think about it.

@SFF_lib
It is hard to define, as I don't play in any league. I train only and sometimes play couple of sets at the end of training with my coach or friend.
I'm not a beginner and all moves/hits with bh and fh. My coach says that my BH top spin is more deadly but there is no consistency with it. I can do 2-3 in row and next will go off the table or into the net, because I'm late in position and hit unprepared.

@ALL
here you can find my old footage 6 years ago when I came back to play after 20 years break. Then I stopped play again, and back to table tennis this year. I'm going to record new one and post here, but what I can say comparing to old one that at this moment I'm better but not satisfied because of lack of consistency.

https://www.tabletennisdaily.com/forum/topics/video-footage-safe-thread.26467/post-398441

 

[turbozed]

For what it's worth, I find that with all wood blades, differences in blade speed have a greater effect than differences in rubber speed.

This is less the case with composite blades, as regardless of what type of reinforcing fabric you use, it all puts a solid "floor" under the blade's speed.

In my experience, it's actually very hard to find a genuinely slow composite blade -- the composite layers affect playing feel and feedback far more than they do the spin and speed of a blade. For this reason you tend to get a LOT more variation in speed with all wood blades than with composites.

Many times I have made multiple identical blades, using identical woods that were taken from identical boards, that *still* have surprisingly large differences in their rebound speed during bounce tests.

These differences are usually due to the considerable density changes / differences that typically exist in almost all low-density, fast growing timber species (ie: the same wood most of the world's table tennis blades are made of).

Long story short...

...if you ever suspect a particular all-wood blade/rubber combo hypothetically might be a good match for you...

...but the end result is somehow disappointing, try measuring and weighing the bare blade on its own (to determine it's mass, and by extension its average density), and then go looking for a lighter/heavier example of the exact same blade.

While none of the larger TT brands will admit it -- the weight, density and speed of all-wood blades are *always* going to vary a fair amount from blade to blade. There is actually very little they can do to stop it from happening --it's not their fault; it's just a combination of mother nature and physics at work.

The *only* way a bladesmith can guarantee the average density (and by extension speed) of an all-wood blade, is to measure the individual weight and density of **every single piece of timber it's made from** beforehand, and then only using pieces of timber which has the specific density you're after.

Smaller custom Bladesmiths like myself can do this fairly easily, but it does involve a price premium, as you're typically picking the eyes out of your own wood stocks to do it. Larger mass-produced brands however can't (or else won't) do it, as their whole business model is built around volume. Selling mass-produced blades based around a set density is just commercially impossible - wood density simply varies too much to make it commercially feasible.

This is what I've suspected from my experience after researching blades, reading reviews, and trying to understand TT equipment over the past year or so. The fact that companies reknown for their quality like Butterfly and Nittaku still release blades that vary in weight by 15+ grams in the same model suggests that wood variability is a huge issue. That's like a 15-20% difference in weight between the lighest and heaviest of blades and it would be safe to imagine the playing properties also vary by similar degrees.

Players can reduce the variability somewhat by choosing a specific weight of the blade, but even blades of similar weight are going to have different hardness, stiffness, and density distribution just as a factor of wood variation. There are a lot of people I see online that spend a lot of time trying to pick out the exact blade suited for them based on reviews alone, and that's more helpful than nothing, but you really don't know what you're going to get until you spend time using that specific blade.

 

[disaster3]

To slow down a bit on all wood blade. In bulk from tt11 3=4.

Had to buy 4 to reduce the price. At the first will start with 2.0 black G-1 on FH and 2.0 C-1 on BH and within the time when progress will switch to g-1 max on FH and g-1 2.0 on bh to be in the same family and not to change everything immediately.

Waiting on FedEx for my blade from OSP is in delivery for today too😀

 

[iajo]

as somebody who returned to tt last October I have been on a similar journey. I think it is important to find a set up that feels good to you and then try and give it three months. I chopped and changed like mad until I found a persson power play with tenergy 19 both sides. It was the right combination of lively and controlled. My game improved a lot over three months and I started chopping and changing again trying to find a carbon blade, I'm now settled again on tenergy 05 either side of stiga nostalgic offensive, i prefer the all wood feel and after a couple of months with this setup I am improving again. Footwork, fitness, body rotation, relax has become a bit of a mantra for me.

I found the G1 to be Spinney and quite stable, not as springy as tenergy, you have to do more of the work but much more forgiving in the short game. Good luck with your new setup.

 

[disaster3]

There was some delay in delivery and today received it finally 😉

Need to assemble all together and glue 😀

Work in progress, no time to waste 😉

Finished… a bit heavy 190g in total.

 

[disaster3]

An ALL+ to OFF- blade, when facing some topspin at the endline... can be one damn powerful setup... which mis what matters to non-developed players when they form opions.

PLUS 1 there.

What really matters to the development for feel of spin is EASE of penetration to topsheet/sponge... which SOFT sponge MODERN DYNAMIC rubbers excel in...

My signature setup is one of one thousand possible appropriate setups that nudge you to feel the ball and go for spin impact.

Such blades over time can help a player feel the ball better and make more consistent quality topspin shots... that adds up.

You can go to tabletennis11.com and if you order 300 euros of stuff, you get 30% off...

You could get Der_Echte's super spin and control setup for under 100 US Dolleros.

Donic Persson Powerplay blade - $27 USD
Donic Bluestorm Z3 (a soft rubber) $36 USD
Tibhar Aurus Soft .................................. $27 USD

That is $90 USD with free DHL shipping (assuming a 300 euro + order)

I usually get friends' orders too when I order.

I found above in the different thread, based on your profile I assume that you are playing with
Z3 on FH and Aurus Soft on BH? Correct me if I'm wrong
Did you go with both max sponges? Aurus max is 2.1 and Z3 max is greater than 2.1 as 2.1 also exists.