How did you decide Chinese versus Tensor rubber on FH?

says Spin and more spin.
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So, I have a friend who is sort of a showman. He plays with all kinds of things. A rock. A shoe. A cell phone. But usually he plays with a block of wood. It is a 9 inch piece of a 2"x4". That is about 230mm long.

440px-2_By_4_Clue_Stick.jpg

That is a photo of a 2x4. Cut that to 9 inches or 230mm and that is what he uses. So, blocky, clumsy, awkward to manipulate and control the exact angle of the blade face.

The PG7 is a little less like a block of wood than that 2x4. But not much. If you played with it for long enough you would get used to it. With either of those blades that is probably the case. But that is generally NOT a good thing for the development of your technique. That is something that would probably slow your improvement without you being able to tell and feel it.

These are common mistakes in equipment that people make. Blades that are faster are somehow more glamorous, sexy, or something. Often the blades that feel great to rally with from mid-distance are not the ones that will be good for a player to play matches with or to improve their technique, touch and feel with.

So, even though you think you want to tough it out with a blade that isn't quite right for you. I would recommend you simply go and get the Stratus Power Wood and put some good rubbers on it and forget about those two blades. Because even though the PG7 has a Limba top ply, it is really not like the 5 ply blades I am talking about.

Last detail. From a technical standpoint I would say it is more useful to get good high quality rubbers and a slower blade than to get a fast blade and lower quality rubbers. For the development of your technique, that formula is backwards.
 
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So, I have a friend who is sort of a showman. He plays with all kinds of things. A rock. A shoe. A cell phone. But usually he plays with a block of wood. It is a 9 inch piece of a 2"x4". That is about 230mm long.

View attachment 8676

That is a photo of a 2x4. Cut that to 9 inches or 230mm and that is what he uses. So, blocky, clumsy, awkward to manipulate and control the exact angle of the blade face.

The PG7 is a little less like a block of wood than that 2x4. But not much. If you played with it for long enough you would get used to it. With either of those blades that is probably the case. But that is generally NOT a good thing for the development of your technique. That is something that would probably slow your improvement without you being able to tell and feel it.

These are common mistakes in equipment that people make. Blades that are faster are somehow more glamorous, sexy, or something. Often the blades that feel great to rally with from mid-distance are not the ones that will be good for a player to play matches with or to improve their technique, touch and feel with.

So, even though you think you want to tough it out with a blade that isn't quite right for you. I would recommend you simply go and get the Stratus Power Wood and put some good rubbers on it and forget about those two blades. Because even though the PG7 has a Limba top ply, it is really not like the 5 ply blades I am talking about.

Last detail. From a technical standpoint I would say it is more useful to get good high quality rubbers and a slower blade than to get a fast blade and lower quality rubbers. For the development of your technique, that formula is backwards.
I see. Man, you are quite convincing.
I will apply what you say,,, tibhar spw then. Anyway, which rubber would you suggest? I like playing short table,power loops. But since you are suggesting me to learn from scratch, I am all ears to you man!

Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk
 
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I see. Man, you are quite convincing.
I will apply what you say,,, tibhar spw then. Anyway, which rubber would you suggest? I like playing short table,power loops. But since you are suggesting me to learn from scratch, I am all ears to you man!

Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk


I play short table power loops and I spin the ball wide. You can do that with any blade but it is easier with a slower blade. It is a mid-distance blocking/countering game that you will find it harder to do with a slower blade.
 
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How can you crash on straight road! That's what is drag race! Anyway,coming back to tt and I think you might be right !

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Because you forget how easy it is to crash a car with power steering because you are so used to it.

That's what using a fast blade is like - you need the relaxed touch in your hand to make it go slower and many people who start out don't have that - they grip the paddle too tightly. If you realized this and were trying to soften your touch to make the paddle go slower and get good spin, you would possibly be able to use it. But this is much harder than starting out with something slower and learning this with that. This is from my experience.
 
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It really does make difference now that I have both and can compare. I feel to get better you have to be able to loop backspin and go for loop as soon as 3rd ball. My coach taught me chop and loop. He said chop back any short ball for now and loop anything long. In future he will show me flick for short ball.

He made me short chop to him over and over hundreds of times to develop soft touch on both fh and bh. This touch is much easier with Tibhar. With YEO I can do it too, but the ball feel is hard and it take far more concentration for me. With Tibhar I can chop back with heavy spin over and over in a match. Against lower player, I can send 1-2 short chop over and either win point or get easy ball to loop. I feel like I can short chop with heavy spin forever with this blade. Against 1500 player who block back my loops so well that he can win point, sometime I have to short chop him many time to get a longer ball to loop back and have chance to control point with. He told me that I can out chop him now and he was very impressed.

What I find - control and touch is most important. Spin the ball, keep the ball on the table. Don't try to kill it.
 
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What I find - control and touch is most important. Spin the ball, keep the ball on the table. Don't try to kill it.

Yes. Power is important, but what most players who start out (and again, when I say these things, do realize that I am referring to myself in the past tense very often, not just to new players) is that power comes naturally as your timing improves as you can spin the ball harder or softer depending on your mood and goals.
 
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I am going to explain it differently even though I agree with how NextLevel explained things about blades that are a little slower. I just think that there is even more to it.

When you have a fast blade, and your technique isn't already REALLY DARN GOOD (like, semi-pro level good) the really fast blade makes it more likely that you will do several things which all cause your technique to improve more slowly.

First I am going to say what the number one important thing to help your technique to improve is: MORE SPIN. More spin requires more precise contact, finer touch, better ball feel in your hand and the ability to brush past the ball instead of letting the ball to sink in all the way to the wood.

A faster blade, a harder blade, generally has less dwell time and the ball flies off the racket faster. Someone who already has developed the fine touch and acceleration of good technique will still be able to feel what they need to. Then there is everyone else.

So here is what a faster, harder blade will do:

It will feel better to blast the ball and make drive or smash contact so your more likely to continue learning to drive into the ball and much less likely to learn how to brush past the ball and how to control the depth of the brush so that you can decide how much the ball sinks into the topsheet and sponge.

The faster blade will also encourage you to cut down your stroke to control the ball going onto the table. This will also encourage you to use less body, hips and weight transfer and a less useful arm motion since you will likely be cutting down your stroke without even realizing it.

So the faster blade, until your technique is already decently high level, will encourage you to develop a weaker and less mechanically effective stroke.

Whereas, the slower blade will encourage you to develop the skill of holding the ball on the topsheet and sponge for longer. It will encourage you to learn how to accelerate your racket much more. To brush past the ball instead of hitting into it to get more from the topsheet and sponge to help the pace. It will help you develop the touch and feel of finer contact. When your contact is not so good, it won't feel good. And your racket won't help you as much. When your racket is good, you will be rewarded and your nervous system will feel the difference between good and bad contact. With a harder, faster blade, often bad contact still feels good because you get that snap from digging into the wood that you really want only when YOU choose it.

So the faster, harder blades are seductive because it is really fun to use them. However, they do ultimately slow and prevent your development of higher level technique.

When you can do all the stuff from this video reasonably well, then go for faster, harder blades:



Sent from the Oracle of Delphi by the Pythia
 
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says Spin and more spin.
says Spin and more spin.
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[emoji121] Carl is explaining the movie Matrix.

Couldn't be said any better than that!!!!!

shucks, good thing i don't want to move to a fast blade because with this rule ill never be able to ^^

I resemble that remark.


Sent from the Oracle of Delphi by the Pythia
 
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I am going to explain it differently even though I agree with how NextLevel explained things about blades that are a little slower. I just think that there is even more to it.
Sent from the Oracle of Delphi by the Pythia


Of course there is more to it, but I still have a day job.


I think I will write an article on the benefits of slower blades and then just link to it whenever this issue comes up.
 
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Don't sell yourself short. It's largely technique.

it was partly a joke. the real reason ill never move to a fast blade is because my favorite part of the game is honestly feeling the ball on a good shot. when i use a fast blade that feeling goes numb and i cant feel it anymore. it ruins the fun of the game for me
 
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it was partly a joke. the real reason ill never move to a fast blade is because my favorite part of the game is honestly feeling the ball on a good shot. when i use a fast blade that feeling goes numb and i cant feel it anymore. it ruins the fun of the game for me

You are a smart man. That said, there are good reasons to move to a faster blade when you have consistent technique. They may or may not apply to you in the future and one of them is that you may need to counter/block faster with short strokes if you play certain styles.
 
Ok, since the discussion has been driven way off, yet another time:p, I would like to ask a question. I have Tsp Thriller OFF- blade and I have no problem with the blade, but looking for information for it I can't find accurate info on the plies of it. Tabletennisdb.com says that it's 5 ply with kiri core, but looking at the blade it seems it's one ply.
 
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