problems with control

[OhWell]

my coach told me to switch from blade, because i tried to switch rubbers, but it didn't help a lot.

Rule of thumb: listen to your coach. Did he have any blade suggestions for you?

 

[Mattys Vanackere]

Rule of thumb: listen to your coach. Did he have any blade suggestions for you?

Nope, thats the problem, he doesn't know.

 

[dominus7]

Nope, thats the problem, he doesn't know.

How can a coach ignore about rubbers and blades? :O

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[brokenball]

The problem is that i don't have confidence in my forehand topspins because my setup is to fast, and i don't have any control with it.

Switching equipment may help but that is not your real problem. If you brush the ball then most of the energy you give to the ball will be rotational kinetic energy ( spin ) and not translational kinetic energy ( speed ). This will slow down the ball plus provide a lot of Magnus effect ( arc ) to keep the ball on the table. The difficulty is timing and making contact/brushing the ball without missing it. Playing back from the table may help. The ball will slow down by half for every 5 meters of travel. This will give gravity more time to bring the ball down.

The people I play with often say more spin less speed because there is a tendency to hit the ball so fast that its trajectory is almost a straight line. These balls barely clears the net and barely land on the end of the table.... if they land at all. These are not good percentage shots.

It is all about energy. You can apply the same energy to the ball but have widely difference results depending on how you hit the ball. Whether you hit through the ball or brush thinly or something in between.

You all have now had your weekly dose of geek speak.

 

[Mattys Vanackere]

Lol, i am not a member of a realy big club, so we don't have realy a trainer atm and it sucks.
But we have a team on national level, and they know a lot about equipment, but only about their own playing style.

 

[Mattys Vanackere]

So what do you suggest me to do?
taking a few steps back from the table?
I'll try!
thanx

 

[Baal]

Your blade is too fast

 

[UpSideDownCarl]

I think the blade may be too fast. But I also feel the rubber....get rid of it. Sorry. I just can't stand Calibra rubbers. Use anything else.

But I am curious about something:

Last year with donic acuda blue p3 the control was amazing, and had an amazing speed, and the spin was good.
And it was with the same blade as i use this year.

If that worked, why not use it again?

I mean, really, use anything different than Calibra. I can actually see Calibra doing that to certain kinds of FHs regardless of the blade. But a low throw rubber like that with a topsheet that doesn't grab plus a fast blade with no dwell time....I mean, come on, that setup is terrible for slow spinny loops.

What the Donic Persson Power Carbon with Calibra would be good for is fishing from way back and then throwing in crazy counterloops. The long trajectory and low throw of a rubber with that kind of topsheet plus that blade with that kind of rebound just would make it very hard to slow loop close to the table. For a rubber like Calibra, you need to really sink the ball into the topsheet and use the sponge to get the full potential from it. And that is much more useful and effective from further back. From closer to the table Calibra is just a really fast rubber that doesn't grab the ball that well.

What about just getting a Petr Korbel and putting that rubber that worked for you--Donic Acuda Blue P3--on FH and Vega Europe on BH?

I mean, really, you could put any number of rubbers on FH though.

ELS
FXS
FXP
T05fx
Baricuda

Are all ideas of rubbers that might be good for your FH on a blade with good flex and dwell time like:

Petr Korbel
Stratus Power Wood
Acoustic
Virtuoso Plus

 

[OhWell]

I mean, really, use anything different than Calibra.

One worry might be that (on that blade) he finds Vega euro even worse than calibra on forehand.

 

[thomas.pong]

What about just getting a Petr Korbel and putting that rubber that worked for you--Donic Acuda Blue P3--on FH and Vega Europe on BH?

I mean, really, you could put any number of rubbers on FH though.

ELS
FXS
FXP
T05fx
Baricuda

Are all ideas of rubbers that might be good for your FH on a blade with good flex and dwell time like:

Petr Korbel
Stratus Power Wood
Acoustic
Virtuoso Plus

Yes!!!!!!!!!

 

[UpSideDownCarl]

One worry might be that (on that blade) he finds Vega euro even worse than calibra on forehand.

Soft rubber with fast hard blade with little dwell time: it doesn’t sound like it is too hard to figure this out. Although I wonder if worse is actual. Or whether he just meant: “also not good,” and was simply overstating the case.

Of course, if someone has REALLY good touch, either blade/rubber combo would still work well enough.


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[OhWell]

Soft rubber with fast hard blade with little dwell time: it doesn’t sound like it is too hard to figure this out. Although I wonder if worse is actual. Or whether he just meant: “also not good,” and was simply overstating the case.

Of course, if someone has REALLY good touch, either blade/rubber combo would still work well enough.


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One last thing, are you leaving out Nexy suggestions above because you don’t want them to move their HQ to Brooklyn?

 

[Mattys Vanackere]

Hey,
Today it was a match again.
I tried to make a few steps back from the table, but this is not my style of play.
My oponents could easily control the game, so i changed to my normal playing style and i won 3/4 matches.
But again, there is the conclussion that sometimes my FH shots are amazing, but most of the time the ball is just slipping from the top sheet, and i don't have any control. When my shots are on the table, they were too fast for my oponents to block or to counter.
But i realy need more control.
thanks for the reviews, they are very helpfull

 

[UpSideDownCarl]

One last thing, are you leaving out Nexy suggestions above because you don’t want them to move their HQ to Brooklyn?

The rubbers I listed are very spinny with very grippy topsheets. I listed them for a reason.

The blades I listed are all spin monsters with decent speed and soft top plies. They are all in that range between Off- and Off where they could be listed as the high end of Off- blades or the low end of Off.

Not sure Nexy has blades or rubbers directly comparable to the ones I listed.

Lissom and KJH would be the closest and the hardness of the White Ash top ply on both would require more touch and skill than the soft Limba top ply of the blades in did list.


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[Mattys Vanackere]

would the P3 be good with al off blade or better with an ALL+?
And which of those blades would you recommend?

 

[OhWell]

The rubbers I listed are very spinny with very grippy topsheets. I listed them for a reason.

The blades I listed are all spin monsters with decent speed and soft top plies. They are all in that range between Off- and Off where they could be listed as the high end of Off- blades or the low end of Off.

Not sure Nexy has blades or rubbers directly comparable to the ones I listed.

Lissom and KJH would be the closest and the hardness of the White Ash top ply on both would require more touch and skill than the soft Limba top ply of the blades in did list.


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I noticed that pattern before so I was actually wondering. That makes sense!

 

[Giangt]

I just read some of the posters suggestions on your problem with your setup.
I did some research one the blade and it struck me that it is a 9 layer blade!? Also reviews from people who are using the blade are stating that “Its good for flat hitting, blocking and smashing.”
For me it sounds like the blade the it a relative stiff one and not suitable for the game you want to play blocking, flicking, looping...

People here have given you a lot of good advises and especially Carl. Before spending money on new equipment try some of your club mates setup and try to find all wood one for starters. Medium hard rubbers will be good for most blades. They have the hardness of 45 deg on the European scale which is in Shore C.

 

[Der_Echte]

Not sure Nexy has blades or rubbers directly comparable to the ones I listed.

Lissom and KJH would be the closest and the hardness of the White Ash top ply on both would require more touch and skill than the soft Limba top ply of the blades in did list.


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Nexy Spear.

But we are not hear to pimp Nexy, I mentioned before that the OP could be well off by figuring out the desired play style, and get equipment that is right in the middle zone of that. Every TT equipment maker has several blades and rubber for each zone.

Typically, an allround OFF player wants a blade that can make spin, not ridiculous quick rebound, and not extreme top end. The typical wood (and a few composite) that are around the All+ OFF- on the average (HUNDREDS of these blades are made) and a medium modern rubber (hundred of those too from everyone, something along the lines of the properties of Tibhar Genius).

An aggressive OFF attacker usually goes for a fast composite blade and high end modern rubbers. Still hundreds of those blades fit and only dozens of rubbers. Still, an almost endless amount of combos around.

We could make recommendations all day and many of them would be suitable.

Overall, I agree that a blade with less pop on the low and middle gears would help, so would a more medium modern rubber.

Problem is, we would confuse if we listed even 10% of the possible ones, and seem to discriminate if we make it simple and list only a few possible suitable ones.

That is why I say go middle of the zone for what style and required specs, get that, and have at it for a while. Usually, it will work out.

Often, a player gets suitable equipment, but still has issues in both short and long term. TT is not an easy sport and without effective guidance or discovery and practice, it is tough to progress sometimes.

 

[perham]

If you want to try something in OFF- range without spending lots of money, also give Palio CAT a try. It's a balsa carbon blade with a surprising amount of control, and it's very light.

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[Tuppe]

Hey Mattys,

I just checked your ranking and results on the website of the Belgian Table tennis league. At your level, you don't need a Carbon blade. Just take an all wood blade like Korbel, stratus power wood, xiom offensive S or yasaka sweden extra and put some controllable offensive rubbers on it. Examples are tibhar genius, hexer, vega pro/europe, etcetera. Every brand has one. Such a setup would be the best for your future development as a player.