I would like to apologise first because I see a lot off these types of threads. I am currently using Donic Waldner Legend Carbon Off +. I have not been playing for long (about a year) and it was my first real bat. I use Quantum s on FH and M-XP on BH I like the BH don't have to much trouble controlling it. However the same can't be said for my FH . I attack as soon as i am able to usually close to the table. But when I get I high 5th ball I go for it with my FH and when I miss, 80% of the time it is long. I am aware that it is me and not the bat but I was just looking for something a little more forgiving on full power shots and touch shots. The only other blade I have tried for a longer period of time was my friends joola falcon fast but it felt to slow. Something in between I think would be better for me. Any suggestions would be great I know it is difficult as you have not seen me play but any advice is welcome. I don't have a budget. Thanks
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What happens if you simply switch your blade and smash with your BH side (M-XP) and use it on the FH side? Does a similar kind of thing happen where the ball is going long most of the time? Unfortunately I have never really played with any Donic blades properly nor your FH rubber Quantum s. I do use MX-P though and that's definitely a good rubber. Generally speaking, I think when you get quite high "easy" pop ups and it goes flying out when you smash it, it's usually technique related rather than blade/rubber related issue. Of course it depends a bit as some high balls are quite tricky to smash especially if they have some spin (usually side) and lands quite close to the end of your side of the table despite the fact that it's high.
This is something which can be practiced, simply have an opponent who is decent and (probably enjoys) lobbing do that for you and you try and hit with accuracy multiple times. First be accurate and when that becomes consistent try and emphasize with more power/speed when appropriate. I did this in my first 2 years of playing, in competition I still miss more easy pop ups than I like but generally speaking if I am not nervous then I can hit with reasonable accuracy and power most of the time. Btw, I think besides technique, nerves is the other main thing, there is often a desire to put away your opponent in one go. Sometimes you have to work those high balls a few times before you can go for the kill, if you watch Xu Xin versus many players he wins an incredibly number of points by lobbing at some point (because he is forced to) and then comes back in slowly and finds an opportune moment to counter attack.
This is something which can be practiced, simply have an opponent who is decent and (probably enjoys) lobbing do that for you and you try and hit with accuracy multiple times. First be accurate and when that becomes consistent try and emphasize with more power/speed when appropriate. I did this in my first 2 years of playing, in competition I still miss more easy pop ups than I like but generally speaking if I am not nervous then I can hit with reasonable accuracy and power most of the time. Btw, I think besides technique, nerves is the other main thing, there is often a desire to put away your opponent in one go. Sometimes you have to work those high balls a few times before you can go for the kill, if you watch Xu Xin versus many players he wins an incredibly number of points by lobbing at some point (because he is forced to) and then comes back in slowly and finds an opportune moment to counter attack.
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What are you trying to do? Where do you want your game to go? What style do you want to play?
If you want to be a looper or a versatile topspin attacker, I am not sure who recommended an OFF+ blade to you as your first blade, but you really need to change it to something much slower. The rubbers are generally too fast, but maybe you have your way of working with them, but I can't believe if you played only a year that you know what you are doing with them.
IF you want to be a blocker/hitter and have compromised strokes, then an OFF+ blade is not bad, but to get to a high level, it isn't the preferred first choice either, and it will compromise your spin strokes for a very long time.
If you want to be a looper or a versatile topspin attacker, I am not sure who recommended an OFF+ blade to you as your first blade, but you really need to change it to something much slower. The rubbers are generally too fast, but maybe you have your way of working with them, but I can't believe if you played only a year that you know what you are doing with them.
IF you want to be a blocker/hitter and have compromised strokes, then an OFF+ blade is not bad, but to get to a high level, it isn't the preferred first choice either, and it will compromise your spin strokes for a very long time.
When i use the other side my miss is still long i know it is my stroke and not the bat, it is just have no forgiveness when i miss time the shot. I think the nerves plays a part aswell as trying to kill the ball on the first try.
the style i want to play is a versatille attacker but just now i find i do hit the ball flatter than i would like (i am working on it). No one recomended it i just thought i am going to get a new bat after a couple months of playing. i am a very agressive player going for everything i can and somtimes things i can't . I bought that blade because i did not know what i was doing i thought i need as much speed as possable but it was not the best idea. i have got used to the speed of it but when i go all out on the shots my stroke can let me down i know thats not the bat. I am just looking for somthing that i am able to control a little bit more when i don't hit the ball perfect.
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Do you play at a club? If you do, try out as many other people's blades and setups as possible. The general advice for many people at the beginning is to start with a somewhat slower, more controlled blade+rubber. I think it sounds like technique is a larger part of the issue overall, if you feel you are not getting enough feedback from your blade and hence there is a large drop in accuracy then I suggest you consider trying a wooden 5 or 7 ply blade. Generally speaking 5 ply blades are considered to have more flex and are better for looping whilst 7 ply blades are better for hitting/blocking but then again there are plenty of exceptions to this.
How do you feel about this issue? Do you already have a preference for what type of blade/rubbers? If budget isn't an issue then you can get a completely new set up or otherwise if you are happy with your rubbers then try out other people's blades and then just transfer your rubber to the new blade. Lastly is there a coach at your local club, maybe he/she can help with your technical problems?
How do you feel about this issue? Do you already have a preference for what type of blade/rubbers? If budget isn't an issue then you can get a completely new set up or otherwise if you are happy with your rubbers then try out other people's blades and then just transfer your rubber to the new blade. Lastly is there a coach at your local club, maybe he/she can help with your technical problems?
I play at a club a coach has been working with me on brushing the ball and using my forward momentum to get the ball over then net because just now I hit the ball hard and flat a lot but using mostly my arm . I am not bad for only playing for about 7 months I play in a league and I am second overall only losing twice in 15 matches. I am looking to get better and I think the bat I am using is not helping my development I don't except to suddenly be Ma Long because I buy a new setup just that it helps me learn better technique and I get better feel of the ball.
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It is funny how every beginner thinks they need to learn to hit the ball faster when what they really need to do is learn to hold the ball longer. If all we wanted to do was simply hit the ball faster, we would all be using no sponge short pips on the thickest, bounciest blades available.
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What has your coach said about your equipment? How well do.you loop.backspin? What would your USATT equivalent rating be? And finally, about how old are you?
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NextLevel did a good job of bringing out the important information. That setup will slow down your progress. If you want to improve your first goal should be to learn how to spin everything as much as possible. For that, you need a different kind of setup.
If you read through most of the other threads like this you will see, very similar information will be presented.
1) for developing your spin game, a 5 ply all wood blade in the All+/Off- speed category is most useful.
The rubbers you are using, you may be able to get away with them. But neither of them seem quite right for where you are at. MX-P is a darn hard rubber for BH and probably won't encourage you to learn to spin heavy there. It is a great rubber but you have to be pretty high level to use it on BH and get what you should from it. Softer, spin oriented rubbers would be a good place to start with the rubbers. BH ideally should be a bit softer or same hardness as FH not harder. Your current rubbers have that backwards.
Example of blades:
1) Tibhar Stratus Power Wood
2) Yasaka Sweden Extra
3) Stiga Offensive Classic
4) Stiga Allround Evolution
Example of Rubbers.
1) FH EL-P BH FX-P
2) FH Vega Pro BH Vega Europe
3) Donic Baracuda FH & BH
I know you said you don't have much budget. It would be worth saving for a setup like one of those.
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If you read through most of the other threads like this you will see, very similar information will be presented.
1) for developing your spin game, a 5 ply all wood blade in the All+/Off- speed category is most useful.
The rubbers you are using, you may be able to get away with them. But neither of them seem quite right for where you are at. MX-P is a darn hard rubber for BH and probably won't encourage you to learn to spin heavy there. It is a great rubber but you have to be pretty high level to use it on BH and get what you should from it. Softer, spin oriented rubbers would be a good place to start with the rubbers. BH ideally should be a bit softer or same hardness as FH not harder. Your current rubbers have that backwards.
Example of blades:
1) Tibhar Stratus Power Wood
2) Yasaka Sweden Extra
3) Stiga Offensive Classic
4) Stiga Allround Evolution
Example of Rubbers.
1) FH EL-P BH FX-P
2) FH Vega Pro BH Vega Europe
3) Donic Baracuda FH & BH
I know you said you don't have much budget. It would be worth saving for a setup like one of those.
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I am inconsistent with my loop on backspin with my fh I can loop or over but it is high and slow and when I try put more power into it I normally go long with my bh it is good against backspin . *I am rated 610 I don't know what it would be in us rating the best person in the area is 1500 and I am 23
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I did get MXP for my FH but I preferred it on my backhand. When I said I don't have a budget I meant I with spend as much as I need doesn't matter what the price is.
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You want to do what next level Said and go for dwell to hold and feel the ball. FX-P is great for that.
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For FH Vega Pro BH Vega Europe, wich Xiom Blade would you advise Ofensive S or Extreme S ?
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I don't know so much about the above blades except Stiga Offensive Classic which is definitely a good blade for a developing player. I am pretty sure all of them would be a fair bit slower, less bouncy and have better feedback for most shots than your current blade. The thing is with these slower blades you actually get more time (as in dwell time) to generate your own power and you get more feedback on how much power and spin you generate. Like I said before, I strongly recommend in the next 2-3 months to try other people's blades and setups as much as possible.
If you are comfortable with your rubbers then I suggest you can simply keep them for the moment and put them on whichever blade you decide to change to. It sounds like maybe you are stronger on the BH to start with anyway so if MX-P feels fine then I would just leave it.
I am going to throw in one more blade which is not a pure wooden blade but I believe is quite good for developing player which is the Butterfly Innerforce ZLF or alternatively the Butterfly Liu Shiwen blade (they have the same overall layer composition with small differences in thickness, weight and different colour and handle). This is a 5 ply wood + 2 layers of ZL fibre. This blade feels quite close to a wooden blade and has good dwell but is a touch faster and maybe slightly stiffer as well. It's a bit pricey but could be worth thinking about as you started with a carbon blade in the first place.
Anyway, I think you could also consider getting some coaching lessons if you have the time and budget allows. Even a few lessons will help with the technical basics and that's another way to try new setups as many coaches have experience with different setups. Have fun with your TT!
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I would need to hear more about what your level is and what is going on with your game. But with those blades it would be me playing numbers.
I have to confess I don't love Xiom blades. There is one I like but it is a bit thick. These two I have never played but without knowing anything else I would lean towards the 5 ply blade with the softer touch. The Extreme S is described as hard, stiff and fast. So if you are trying to improve your touch or your strokes, not as recommended. If you are semi-pro level though, that may be the one. For someone less than semi-pro level, the Offensive S would be more useful based on construction. But, again, I have not tried either. So that is just general info.
Any reason you would want a Xiom blade?
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Oh, that makes recommendations easier.
Then you could also consider Tenergy on FH or as MegaZZ suggested, an IF ZLF is one of the few composite blades that would be really good for you. Some people find it weird because it is so soft. But it is great for spinning the ball and improving technique.
With a higher budget you also add these to the list of blades for you to research:
[a note, the lists in my earlier post and in this post, the equipment is in no particular order]
1) Nittaku Acoustic or Tenor
2) OSP Virtuoso (Off- or V+)
3) Butterfly IF ZLF
Rubbers that could added to the list:
1) Tenergy 05, 80, 64 regular or FX. Any of them for FH or BH.
So with a softer blade that is not slow, but is not too fast, that should help. Speed ranges between All+ and Off- make sense but an Off blade that isn't on the faster side of the Off spectrum would probably be fine too.
You may be fine with the rubbers you have. But I can't help feeling that, if your FH didn't like MX-P then you probably want softer rubbers than MX-P on both sides even if your BH can handle MX-P.
A quick question, if someone loops heavy topspin at you, can you counterloop it comfortably with either FH or BH?
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if I am close to the table I can't with my fh I can when I am far away from the table but with my BH I can counter loop from close and far
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Okay. Good info. Then you can probably use any rubber you want for BH. I would say, whatever you get that works for FH, use the same for FH so that you are at least not using a harder rubber on BH. But, really, it sounds like you could use anything on BH but need a rubber with more control for FH.
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I am just back from practice and tried a couple bats, Ma Long 3 with hurican 3 national on the FH and 05 fx on BH. i also tried a viscaria with national on it. I loved them both i had no problem going full out on a shot and keeping it on the table.
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