How does blade influence gameplay?

says 2023 Certified Organ Donor
says 2023 Certified Organ Donor
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Re: Banana Flick. It seems like any rubber that's not hard and too tacky can be used in doing that stroke well, so basically most non-chinese rubbers.

Schmidt is right, softer sponged rubbers without a rock hard thick topsheet (mostly the FX or "Soft" or "Spin" or "Sound" versions of most rubbers) make it a lot easier to generate your own spin on serve receive with that stroke. Creating that kind of spin is important for control and it is made with position and timing with touch at impact. The rubber doesn't make the shot, it takes training and technique, but certain rubbers do better in certain situations and that is why we love some of them.

Another thing to consider is some Chinese rubbers with a thick topsheet and semi-tacky or less topsheet (like an H3 where you wiped off the tack with your sweat over the weeks) (or Dawei Inspirit or XP 2008 kind of rubbers) such rubbers are not very reactive to spin as others and with the right touch at impact or with a decent bat speed at impact, one can still control the ball in this situation.
 
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Schmidt is right, softer sponged rubbers without a rock hard thick topsheet (mostly the FX or "Soft" or "Spin" or "Sound" versions of most rubbers) make it a lot easier to generate your own spin on serve receive with that stroke. Creating that kind of spin is important for control and it is made with position and timing with touch at impact. The rubber doesn't make the shot, it takes training and technique, but certain rubbers do better in certain situations and that is why we love some of them.

Another thing to consider is some Chinese rubbers with a thick topsheet and semi-tacky or less topsheet (like an H3 where you wiped off the tack with your sweat over the weeks) (or Dawei Inspirit or XP 2008 kind of rubbers) such rubbers are not very reactive to spin as others and with the right touch at impact or with a decent bat speed at impact, one can still control the ball in this situation.
So Yasaka Mark V should be appropriate for this?
 
says 2023 Certified Organ Donor
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What is 'pace'? So W6 is no go for playing away from table? 896 is better? What about stiga allround evolution?

Pace is speed. Blades that do not have a top end are not very powerful far away from the table. That is not saying you cannot make strong fast topspin from far distance with the right rubber on an ALL+ or OFF- speed class blade. Andro Rasant on one of my 896 blades is a beast from distance. Ultimately, it is the player's bat speed and timing of impact, but a blade with better top end speed will of course be able to produce a more powerful topspin at distance.

You gotta ask yourself what situations you must play under, is it varied, what do you want to be able to do better, what do you want to give up to do everything OK enough, but not spectacular, what do you want to give up to be able to blast it from distance and high balls at the table??? If a player stays at the table, a vibrating blade that isn't fast like the W-6 or Allround Evolution or a few hundred more of its type and class will work great for you as they allow you to counter strong at the table and still land it better than an OFF or OFF+ blade can, and since you impact it early, you get time reaction advantage and better possible angles to use.

The Evolution is simply a slightly faster allround all wood blade that can do it all well, but not super, except for control. Some players value that. Don't expect to slap Ur H3 on the Allround Evolution (it will feel like brick anyway on that blade) and have Houston NASA Space Control Center approve you for take-off, you simply will not be setting speed records with that.

Neither the 896 or Allround Evolution (both original and NOT Modified heavy Low) will not make you very happy from distance. With the mod I did and the right rubbers for you, totally different story, both those bats liven up on hard impact with that mod. The W-6 just feels to week, but with the right rubber, the spin is there and so is the control on your topspin shots.
 
says 2023 Certified Organ Donor
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What is 'pace'? So W6 is no go for playing away from table? 896 is better? What about stiga allround evolution?

So Yasaka Mark V should be appropriate for this?

Ask yourself the kind of questions I asked in the post above and figure out what you want to do most of the time and get equipment suitable for that, both blade and rubber.

If you do not know or have not yet decided on what you want to do for playing style and shot preferences in TT, get a medium speed blade and control rubbers in 2.1 or above to give you the maximum flexibility to learn all the fundamentals and by them you prolly figured out what you want to become and you can at that point totally ditch your equipment, or get the rubbers suited to what you decided you want to become.

Getting Mark V & Sriver (especially in thin sponge version) is such a standard pundit response it makes me want to vomit. There are HUNDREDS of possible suitable rubbers in that class and pundits are so damned narrow minded believing that is the ONLY way, since it is tried and true. I believe differently, but I gotta say... since they are indeed "control" allround offensive rubbers... AND such a player is looking for an allround offensive setup... they are a good choice for the player who goes with the allround setup to give the maximum possibility to learn maximum number of strokes shots techniques before changing the stuff to better suit the style and type of shots they decide they want to play.
 
says 2023 Certified Organ Donor
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Another thing to consider is some Chinese rubbers with a thick topsheet and semi-tacky or less topsheet (like an H3 where you wiped off the tack with your sweat over the weeks) (or Dawei Inspirit or XP 2008 kind of rubbers) such rubbers are not very reactive to spin as others and with the right touch at impact or with a decent bat speed at impact, one can still control the ball in this situation.

I said that to convey this message... With an effective impact and timing of the acceleration on the flip, one can still use this kind of rubber and still get the job done well. Using the same feel and impact of the flip one uses with soft sponged Euro/Japanese rubbers, the result doing that with XP 2008 is a fail.

You need a different impact and way to hit that shot with XP 2008 or H3 NEO that you broke in and reduced the tackiness. It isn't hard to adjust, but is different. It is basically being a little more "firm" at contact, but not crushing the ball, yet you have to leverage and accelerate the wrist. You don't go for a max crush, unless the shot is there, YOU are there, and you can impact the ball hard at the right part of your effective strike zone. That is ripe for a nice looking flip kill which you do not do very often in a match unless you face someone with poor control on serves.
 
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Pace is speed. Blades that do not have a top end are not very powerful far away from the table. That is not saying you cannot make strong fast topspin from far distance with the right rubber on an ALL+ or OFF- speed class blade. Andro Rasant on one of my 896 blades is a beast from distance. Ultimately, it is the player's bat speed and timing of impact, but a blade with better top end speed will of course be able to produce a more powerful topspin at distance.

You gotta ask yourself what situations you must play under, is it varied, what do you want to be able to do better, what do you want to give up to do everything OK enough, but not spectacular, what do you want to give up to be able to blast it from distance and high balls at the table??? If a player stays at the table, a vibrating blade that isn't fast like the W-6 or Allround Evolution or a few hundred more of its type and class will work great for you as they allow you to counter strong at the table and still land it better than an OFF or OFF+ blade can, and since you impact it early, you get time reaction advantage and better possible angles to use.

The Evolution is simply a slightly faster allround all wood blade that can do it all well, but not super, except for control. Some players value that. Don't expect to slap Ur H3 on the Allround Evolution (it will feel like brick anyway on that blade) and have Houston NASA Space Control Center approve you for take-off, you simply will not be setting speed records with that.

Neither the 896 or Allround Evolution (both original and NOT Modified heavy Low) will not make you very happy from distance. With the mod I did and the right rubbers for you, totally different story, both those bats liven up on hard impact with that mod. The W-6 just feels to week, but with the right rubber, the spin is there and so is the control on your topspin shots.

Usually I play at the table but when I start looping and the opponent blocks or counters I have the tendency to fall back
 
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Ask yourself the kind of questions I asked in the post above and figure out what you want to do most of the time and get equipment suitable for that, both blade and rubber.

If you do not know or have not yet decided on what you want to do for playing style and shot preferences in TT, get a medium speed blade and control rubbers in 2.1 or above to give you the maximum flexibility to learn all the fundamentals and by them you prolly figured out what you want to become and you can at that point totally ditch your equipment, or get the rubbers suited to what you decided you want to become.

Getting Mark V & Sriver (especially in thin sponge version) is such a standard pundit response it makes me want to vomit. There are HUNDREDS of possible suitable rubbers in that class and pundits are so damned narrow minded believing that is the ONLY way, since it is tried and true. I believe differently, but I gotta say... since they are indeed "control" allround offensive rubbers... AND such a player is looking for an allround offensive setup... they are a good choice for the player who goes with the allround setup to give the maximum possibility to learn maximum number of strokes shots techniques before changing the stuff to better suit the style and type of shots they decide they want to play.

I already have an idea of how I want to play. Receive serves using banana flick and become a looping machine on both FH and BH
 
says Spin and more spin.
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noted, does it collect dust easily? With the HN3 I have to clean the rubber after like every point -_-

Have you ever played with a grippy non-tacky rubber? They are totally different than H3. Nothing like H3 at all.
 
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Have you ever played with a grippy non-tacky rubber? They are totally different than H3. Nothing like H3 at all.

As far as I'm aware I only played with Chinese rubbers, but my mates use European rubbers so I do know how they feel. The only thing that was keeping me away from them is the price.
 
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I looked up Mark V on tabletennis11.com and saw so many versions of it. Don't even know how to choose -_-
 
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Why is glue so expensive? They all cost $10+, how many times can I use that?
 
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attachment.php


I'll help you out:

Other people have recommended the Dawei rubber for BH so I'll trust them on that one. From Spinfactory (I trust these guys, they are a popular online shop in Germany) regarding the Air Illumina Alpha:
Vorab lässt sich sagen, dass sich der Air Illumina Alpha nicht wie ein typischer chinesischer Belag spielt. Chinesen liegen mir nicht so gut, da ich bereits seit Jahren mit Tensorbelägen/Tenergy Belägen spiele.

Optisch macht der Illumina Alpha eine gute Figur. Das Obergummi wirkt matt ohne zu glänzen und ist sehr griffig und keinesfalls klebrig.
Die ersten Konterbälle beim Einspielen ließen schon schnell klar werden, dass der Illumina Alpha ein dynamischer Belag ist, aber über keinen zusätzlichen Tuningeffekt verfügt.

Das Spielgefühl ist vergleichbar mit dem von japanischen/deutschen Belägen mit leichten Frischklebeeffekt, dennoch überraschte mich der flache Ballabsprung. Aus diesem Grund haben wir uns für den 33Grad weichen Schwamm entschieden. In dieser Kombination bietet der Belag ein ausgezeichnetes Verhältnis von Kontrolle und Tempo

The rubber is not like a typical Chinese rubber. The topsheet is very grippy and not tacky at all. It's a dynamic rubber that doesn't require any additional tuning. Comparable with Japanese/german rubbers with a slight in built speed glue effect and a lower throw angle. The sponge hardness is at 33° and therefore gives a great balance between control and speed.

I'm looking at it for my FH rubber.
How does it perform for serves? I like doing really spinny serves.
Is it very grippy? I want my FH to be a looping machine
 
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At the end of the day,it comes down to technique and skill.

You give ZJK an anti spin rubber, I doubt he can do a ghost serve

The guy is asking if it is very grippy. A valid question for an equipment query thread.
I myself, can not serve well with very soft sponge rubbers, but there is nothing wrong with my technique or skills, it is my style and hours of training with harder sponge that has determined it. so would you say technique and skills to me if I can't serve well with softer sponge?
 
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I'm looking at it for my FH rubber.
How does it perform for serves? I like doing really spinny serves.
Is it very grippy? I want my FH to be a looping machine

I don't know that FH rubber, but for that price, you can try get the Yinhe Mars or Moon
A South African national player used a Yinhe Moon for around 2 months on his FH, he rely heavily on top spin play and it worked for him.
He changed due to a sponsorship contract
 
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I don't know that FH rubber, but for that price, you can try get the Yinhe Mars or Moon
A South African national player used a Yinhe Moon for around 2 months on his FH, he rely heavily on top spin play and it worked for him.
He changed due to a sponsorship contract

I have Moon Max Tense, degree around 42. Compability was horrible
 
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