How does blade influence gameplay?

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You give ZJK an anti spin rubber, I doubt he can do a ghost serve

The guy is asking if it is very grippy. A valid question for an equipment query thread.
I myself, can not serve well with very soft sponge rubbers, but there is nothing wrong with my technique or skills, it is my style and hours of training with harder sponge that has determined it. so would you say technique and skills to me if I can't serve well with softer sponge?

Ok.i get ur point.

To answer the question,it is grippy,and easy to perform ghost serve.
Easy to banana flick with too.
 
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I think he is asking about versions of Air Illumina.

Cole often tosses in an extra rubber for me to try in my large orders, I buy him out of XP 2008 as I keep making bats for rec players on the cheap and always tryout whatever inexpensive blades he has, use them, then pass them on to a new player to startout with. He just appreciates and supports military and it doesn't hurt to get a new rubber "out there" in players hands. Cole doesn't run the TT shop for a living, he already has employment, he runs a shop to equip new players or those wanting custom made sponge/rubber from Chinese stuff because he really loves and wants to help the TT community that way.

Someone gave me a workable bat when I started... so what if it was an old used totally DEF blade, Joola T-Hold White spot, it was still a pro blade and I learned to loop from it as a rec player.

As much as I would should say to players to get gear that is quality and normally expensive, and yes, we as players deserve that kind of gear, often, when a player starts out, the player is totally concerned about not spending much money and getting something workable. At a price point under $50 USD for a complete bat mailed out, you cannot expect what $150 to $250 will get you, but if you are careful, you can get something to give you a decent start. Usually, after some time, players come around and realize they need "mainstream" equipment and at that point, many try this and that like a disease that is called EJ (Equipment Junkie) Such players will amass an arsenal of quality gear. There is no replacing trying it out for yourself. I do that a lot and keep gear in reserve or pass it on to other players. it is best to try stuff out when you can for free from a player at the TT table every chance you can.


I have tried maybe 3-4 versions of Illumina rubbers. The softer sponged Illumina rubbers, while different in this or that aspect, generally mate very well with vibrating looping blades like the W-6 or most ALL to ALL+ not over thick blades. Illumina is totally non-tacky and the Air sponge is different from anything out there. It shines on your looping strokes where you are applying 70% - 80% of your power with an emphasis on engaging the sponge, easy to do with softer sponged rubbers like this. Best control with this kind of impact that is not as solid hit through the ball. Players who like to loop with soft Euro rubbers will feel at home with Illumina, but the connecting shots have an entirely different feel to them and you gotta have some time to adjust.

For players who are not contenders to fight for a spot in the top 1% of amature players, they will not do worse or better using Illumina compared to a classic, like say Tibhar Rapid Soft or Sriver FX.

Like Tony says, serving with this kind of rubber is different than with a really hard topspheet / hard sponge rubber, theory and technique is different. I can do with either OK, I have more problem keeping arm and wrist loose 100% of the time than adjusting my impact. That is just me. Players like Tony who trained hardcore from the get-go with a certain gear are like what he is... geared to play well with what he had his whole TT life. Nothing replaces years or decades of hard training and experience.
 
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I have Moon Max Tense, degree around 42. Compability was horrible

Unless you like to hit through everything and make flat drives or just smash at everything you see, there really isn't any compatible rubbers to slap on the T Series Carbon blades and expect to play a flexible allround offensive game.

Moon isn't a terrible rubber, but it isn't what it is hyped up to be. It just doesn't work as well as a softer Euro rubber does, Moon has a weird bouncy feel to it and it is more difficult to perform slow openers. On strokes hitting through the ball, it isn't as bad.
 
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I already have an idea of how I want to play. Receive serves using banana flick and become a looping machine on both FH and BH

Another possible blade is the Genote O, a Clipper look-alike, low end OFF class all wood can loop. I made a thread on one of those not so long ago building a bat with XP 2008 on BH to try to see what the Clipper hype was like. The rec center seems to have gotten this bat. :)
 
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I have Moon Max Tense, degree around 42. Compability was horrible

Obviously at 42 degrees, it is not as compability as a 36 deg for example.
42 is really hard. I haven't used any Yinhe product higher than 39 (Saturn, Big dipper) and Moon Speed at 38
I choose Medium (34-36) and Soft (31-33) for SA market, so far they are selling great - for the price.
But I have replaced Moon Speed with the normal Moon. The newer Moon Speed is more grippier and better sponge, but does come with a slight increase in price.
A gap of Moon to Moon Speed, is almost the same as Moon Speed to a proper Tensor like Xiom Vega series.
 
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Unless you like to hit through everything and make flat drives or just smash at everything you see, there really isn't any compatible rubbers to slap on the T Series Carbon blades and expect to play a flexible allround offensive game.

Moon isn't a terrible rubber, but it isn't what it is hyped up to be. It just doesn't work as well as a softer Euro rubber does, Moon has a weird bouncy feel to it and it is more difficult to perform slow openers. On strokes hitting through the ball, it isn't as bad.

True
The T series blade is just way to fast to make it compatible with any types of rubbers.
Maybe something really slow may work

But then again, some guys just want fast fast fast, and can only play at 30% power to be able to land the ball on.
I rather work harder and produce 80% power and speed from myself, and the blade focus on control, and the rubber to give me spin
But then again, this is the reason why Chinese style players don't have a long career. Really too much on the body and hence need to retire early lol
 
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Tony, there are of course a few ways to look at things.

Even with say a T-4 or T8 rocket fast blade that doesn't have much dwell, when paired with an offensive control rubber on FH, the bat becomes a light to medium topspin drive machine given the right mechanics of a player who parks at the table, makes BH punch or medium BH drive and looks to get that powerful FH drive into play, usually requiring some good footwork to get that chance as opponents know this and at about every level go fast and sudden to the FH. This is typical Korean Table Tennis at many amature levels. Coaches teach and preach FH - FH - FH forever. A new player who has had two months of lessons can FH drive close to the table back and forth at increasingly fast speeds way faster and more consistent than I even did, or even maybe will in the future do.

Many coaches START the new players on a SCHLAGER Friggin CARBON with a control rubber like Yasaka Extend HS (I think that is an early generation tensor, but don't quote me). With this kind of bat and the right mechanics re-enforced by coach every lesson and by partner 3 times a second, Korean amature players get VERY good at hitting very fast FH drives without a lot of spin and making one step to get to the ball (and sometimes a two step footwork), They emphasize speed and placement. many Korean amature players including most Div 3 City players and 1/2 the Div 2 crowd do not yet read spin so good and are terrible vs heavy spin or changing spin.

These rocket fast blades are absolute great pairing with the offensive control rubbers for that kind of game, much to the grimace of pundit. It is a training way of almost every Korean coach. I am one of the rare exceptions. I came to the club already able to loop underspin different ways on both FH and BH wing, so coach allowed me to skip over the seemingly mandatory 2-3 yr phase of using FH to only HIT the ball instead of spin it to go along with pace when you need it.

Their way works over there and I had to take notice of it. Let a pundit go tell a Korean coach the new player MUST use Stiga Allround Classic or Grubba ALL with 1.5 to 1.8 sponge classic control rubbers like ONLY Sriver of Mark V... haha, they would get run outta the club with their rubber stuck out of their ears and any other orfice available where the sun doesn't shine.

Myself, I cannot stand such a fast rebound bat like T series, no way for me to generate the spin I want unless I am powerlooping vs underspin. Only connecting shots possible with that are the Korean ones, but I do not play like a Korean, so any T-Series blade I got, eventually get traded away or given away in disgust.

Even with 35 degree sponge on 999 topsheet I love and had long experience with... even with that rubber been treated to death with the stink of orange glue chems still emitting like radiation measured with Geiger counter maxing out and bursting the glass soft sponge... still even then the ball left the bat too damned quick to control with a medium stroke engaging the sponge.
 
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Tony, there are of course a few ways to look at things.

Even with say a T-4 or T8 rocket fast blade that doesn't have much dwell, when paired with an offensive control rubber on FH, the bat becomes a light to medium topspin drive machine given the right mechanics of a player who parks at the table, makes BH punch or medium BH drive and looks to get that powerful FH drive into play, usually requiring some good footwork to get that chance as opponents know this and at about every level go fast and sudden to the FH. This is typical Korean Table Tennis at many amature levels. Coaches teach and preach FH - FH - FH forever. A new player who has had two months of lessons can FH drive close to the table back and forth at increasingly fast speeds way faster and more consistent than I even did, or even maybe will in the future do.

Many coaches START the new players on a SCHLAGER Friggin CARBON with a control rubber like Yasaka Extend HS (I think that is an early generation tensor, but don't quote me). With this kind of bat and the right mechanics re-enforced by coach every lesson and by partner 3 times a second, Korean amature players get VERY good at hitting very fast FH drives without a lot of spin and making one step to get to the ball (and sometimes a two step footwork), They emphasize speed and placement. many Korean amature players including most Div 3 City players and 1/2 the Div 2 crowd do not yet read spin so good and are terrible vs heavy spin or changing spin.

These rocket fast blades are absolute great pairing with the offensive control rubbers for that kind of game, much to the grimace of pundit. It is a training way of almost every Korean coach. I am one of the rare exceptions. I came to the club already able to loop underspin different ways on both FH and BH wing, so coach allowed me to skip over the seemingly mandatory 2-3 yr phase of using FH to only HIT the ball instead of spin it to go along with pace when you need it.

Their way works over there and I had to take notice of it. Let a pundit go tell a Korean coach the new player MUST use Stiga Allround Classic or Grubba ALL with 1.5 to 1.8 sponge classic control rubbers like ONLY Sriver of Mark V... haha, they would get run outta the club with their rubber stuck out of their ears and any other orfice available where the sun doesn't shine.

Myself, I cannot stand such a fast rebound bat like T series, no way for me to generate the spin I want unless I am powerlooping vs underspin. Only connecting shots possible with that are the Korean ones, but I do not play like a Korean, so any T-Series blade I got, eventually get traded away or given away in disgust.

Even with 35 degree sponge on 999 topsheet I love and had long experience with... even with that rubber been treated to death with the stink of orange glue chems still emitting like radiation measured with Geiger counter maxing out and bursting the glass soft sponge... still even then the ball left the bat too damned quick to control with a medium stroke engaging the sponge.

Interesting post, thanks for sharing. Timo Boll wrote in his autobiography that the entire emphasis in his very early years (5-6) was to graze the ball very finely. In fact, his father gave him the small exercise of rolling the ball along the table with his racket to develop ball feeling. This is the reason behind his ultra spinny topspins. He didn't even have good technique once he joined a club but he could pick up everything much more quickly because he had great control.
 
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Obviously at 42 degrees, it is not as compability as a 36 deg for example.
42 is really hard. I haven't used any Yinhe product higher than 39 (Saturn, Big dipper) and Moon Speed at 38
I choose Medium (34-36) and Soft (31-33) for SA market, so far they are selling great - for the price.
But I have replaced Moon Speed with the normal Moon. The newer Moon Speed is more grippier and better sponge, but does come with a slight increase in price.
A gap of Moon to Moon Speed, is almost the same as Moon Speed to a proper Tensor like Xiom Vega series.

Yeah I know, didn't know how hard 42 degree was -_-. Fortunately mistake was not on a $50 rubber
 
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So I think I will go with this setup:

Blade: Galaxy 896
FH: Air Illumina Alpha Plus
BH: Mark V Standard

But colestt has Air Illumina on 40 degree, Isn't that hard? I think Mark V hardness will be ok.
And I can't find a review for Air Illumina Alpha Plus.
 
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you also get a mark v soft,if you want a softer version.
What's the difference between standard and soft? Which one softness is closest to the european rubbers used by the chinese? I just want it soft enough to be able to execute banana flip comfortably, if the standard version is soft enough then I'll go for that.
P.S I know soft version is softer. I mean in terms on performance because soft version is more expensive.
 
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I could be wrong but I believe that is old glue from before the speed glue ban. It would work. It would work great if you wanted a speed glue effect. If I am correct, it will expand your sponge to a certain extent before you glue it on. It will cause it to dome to a certain extent too. It does not say it is speed glue. So it probably is not. It says it is "Traditional" table tennis glue. Which probably means it is the stuff that had some VOCs and not a ton of them. Which means it will give a small speed glue effect, but not a large one.

The problem with that is that, after you glue your rubber on and cut it, 4-5 days later the rubbers will have shrunk back to their normal size and you will wonder why they don't fit your racket any more. Or you could put the glue on and wait 4-5 days before gluing it on. Or you could just reglue ever time you play, get the speed glue effect and use about 1 jar of that glue each month.

The glue you want should specifically state that it is water based glue. Haifu has water based glue also.
 
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What's the difference between standard and soft? Which one softness is closest to the european rubbers used by the chinese? I just want it soft enough to be able to execute banana flip comfortably, if the standard version is soft enough then I'll go for that.
P.S I know soft version is softer. I mean in terms on performance because soft version is more expensive.

both are easy to use to do the banana flick.
 
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I could be wrong but I believe that is old glue from before the speed glue ban. It would work. It would work great if you wanted a speed glue effect. If I am correct, it will expand your sponge to a certain extent before you glue it on. It will cause it to dome to a certain extent too. It does not say it is speed glue. So it probably is not. It says it is "Traditional" table tennis glue. Which probably means it is the stuff that had some VOCs and not a ton of them. Which means it will give a small speed glue effect, but not a large one.

The problem with that is that, after you glue your rubber on and cut it, 4-5 days later the rubbers will have shrunk back to their normal size and you will wonder why they don't fit your racket any more. Or you could put the glue on and wait 4-5 days before gluing it on. Or you could just reglue ever time you play, get the speed glue effect and use about 1 jar of that glue each month.

The glue you want should specifically state that it is water based glue. Haifu has water based glue also.

This one http://www.ebay.com/itm/Haifu-Water...24?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac79410d4?

It's five times more expensive :(
 
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