Weak Forehand & Weak Flick Technique - Rubber change - harder, softer what?

[Migzkulit]

I think you should also lower the weight of your setup. It'll help take stress away from your waist.

 

[blahness]

Less speed can also give you more time and mess up people's timing, so I find that helpful - the 'best fast' shot often works against me as it comes back faster then I can reposition.

So this 'tangential' elasticity sounds a bit like what latej was saying above, talking about the way the topsheet reacts!? Because the sponge softness and thickness will determine the conditions under which catapult is arrived at, right!? but for spin, it's either gripiness which is either from 'stickyness' or a slight sinking causing the tangential force.

In other words, it has to do more with the topsheet!? Am I on the right track?

So how do I find the right rubber then? Yes maybe slightly softer to allow me to get the power more easily, but in terms of getting dwell and spin, it's then really about how the topsheet interacts!? How can I choose a rubber for this?

This is not strictly correct - you only need enough tackiness to engage the sponge correctly, then the topsheet elasticity does its job - similar to catapult in the normal direction (for speed) you also have catapult in the tangential direction (for spin). If spin was completely dependent on stickiness then everyone would be putting superglue on their rubbers.

 

[Lowday20298]

Oh boy, it gets confusing.

Just to clarify, when I speak of flicking, I mean brushing not flat flicking. (should have said that because it's obviously different to hard flat flick)

But don't you need to hit hard to get power out of hard rubbers?

I am struggling to understand the physics around the spin production for the different types of rubber, as well as the dwell time issue.

Am I not right to assume that hard rubbers have less dwell time and need harder strokes to generate spin?

Also, what is the ideal rubber for SLOW heavy spin shots? I used to do this great with hurricane, but can't hit fast on the forehand anymore.

Thanks for clarifying - it's all very confusing.

The D05 has a soft topsheet that also doesn't have too much tension.

A rubber with high tension will work as a catapult and try to get rid of the ball as fast as possible, same with hard topsheet.

A soft topsheet with low tension will allow for the ball to stay on the rubber for much longer and have greater control. It's the main difference between tenergy and dignics

 

[latej]

Thank you so much for that Latej

I just updated my profile - I no longer use Hurricane because of the injury and after trying Rasanter 50, feel I need to downgrade further.

So what you say about the topsheet thickness is VERY interesting, that makes a lot of sense. But rubbers don't normally advise that!?

So if I want a rubber that is less physically demanding for loop power generation, but still allows blocking/countering and improved flicking what should I look for? Going too soft like Rakza 7 soft may be counterproductive, right!?

Sorry for the late reply, by now you have most likely not only bought the rubbers, but already spent them ;-) Anyway, if I had to order the rubbers, I'd say:
1. RX soft
2. R7 or R7 soft (hard to pick)
3. RX

Also, as others suggested, the Hexer Grip or PowerGrip could be good for you. I'd say don't worry, you'll find the right hardness soon. It is also hard to recommend.

Can you suggest any rubbers with thinner top sheet? What about Tibhar K3?

I didn't try K3 and I'm not that big fan of rubbers with thinner top-sheet, I don't like it on FH, and on the BH I like some middle ground, good grip but doesn't need to be too thin. E.g. RX, R7 I like.

Do you think switching from Inner Carbon Acoustic to Acoustic would be a different solution?

That is also very hard to answer, as I can only imagine how you play and what would be ideal, it is more like answering from a dream ;-) Anyway, let's try. You have some limitation and so one could imagine, it is necessary to somehow compensate - to have a blade which has "gears" to allow you to generate power and still feel normal in normal situations. I know about a blade candidate - the Vodak 4APC King - a friend of mine, better player, is using it. It is stiff (stiffer than my blade e.g.), yet not extra thick, and feels surprisingly soft. I could imagine this blade would in those short movements available to you generate enough power. But at the same time I really don't know whether you'd enjoy it. I believe part of the blade selection process is the step when one achieves absolute inner certainty, that this blade, and nothing else, is what I need ;-) I wish you find your blade and have huge fun with it!