Does rakza 7-generation is outdated ?

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More non-sense. Who would buy the Rakza Z if the ball bounces up so high the opponent can just flat hit a line of sight shot? The shown trajectory for the Rakza 9 is the best. Low and doesn't bounce high. Also the path is shorter to the end of the table so the opponent would have less time to react.
Z is the most popular rubber Rakza rubber. As for the graph, it's just a comparative trajectory illustration for spin vs speed. It doesn't mean that in real life your trajectory will be nessessary that high if you adjust your technique. I have had RZ on 5 different blades and I've learned that it's quite picky in that regard. Nittaku Ludeack/RZ for example wasn't a good match. But RZ had great synergy with some hinoki carbon blades which had a lower throw. With a Darker 7P-2A.Carbon the trajectory is as flat as you wish and there's almost no bounce, the ball is gliding forward with lots of spin. You just need to close the racket more. RZ is so tacky/grippy, it requires some extreme angles and this makes it a bit harder to play with. But it rewards you with some ridiculous spin which your opponents will underestimate time and time again, and great control over the table. And with lower level opponents I sometimes can't help but return a higher, short, heavy backspin just to tempt them to "flat hit a line of sight" as you say. And I know 8 out of 10 the ball will hit the net. So RZ is all about the spin. If you're not careful and try to drive-spin it with an open racket, then yes, the trajectory and the bounce will be too high. In that respect R7 and RX are easier to play - both for you and your opponent shall I say. I never tried R9.
BTW in my view the pic is not quite right about R7 vs RX, the latter had a flatter arc and was a bit faster. But maybe it's just the lade.
 
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So I can attack most serves, where should I then look? Any recommendations? Im kind of getting confused in this rubber jungle. Too many choices. I am looking at sheets less than 60$. Not shelling out on short lived high end rubbers.

I can't recommend anything really as I haven't used many rubbers. All I know is a Fastarc G-1 which you are using, to me it was too slippery on a thin contact and I found it tricky to play with over the table when I needed to just brush over it. It's a kind of a tenacious drive-spin rubber where you need to hit through the topsheet and engage the sponge with every shot. In that respect I much preferred a 2.0 mm GoldArc 8, which was also fast, very offensive, safe to hit hard, not easy to bottom up, but it never let the ball slip on a thin contact like a slow topspin or a flick. And you can pick up a legit one on AliExpress for under £30 incl. postage and it's a great rubber for any level above lower intermediate. XIOM Vega X also worked well in that respect: somehow close to GA8, fast, spinny, catches the ball well, but it felt softer and was a bit too bouncy for my liking.
But this is just my game, yours could be different.
 
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I am a fan of Rakza rubbers. I think of RZ and RZ hard as in a little different category than R7, 9, X and XX. If you wanted something faster but similar to R7 then either R7 max sponge or 9 or X make sense. I don't really like rakza rubbers in 2.0, as I really like to spin the ball more.
 
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I can't recommend anything really as I haven't used many rubbers. All I know is a Fastarc G-1 which you are using, to me it was too slippery on a thin contact and I found it tricky to play with over the table when I needed to just brush over it. It's a kind of a tenacious drive-spin rubber where you need to hit through the topsheet and engage the sponge with every shot. In that respect I much preferred a 2.0 mm GoldArc 8, which was also fast, very offensive, safe to hit hard, not easy to bottom up, but it never let the ball slip on a thin contact like a slow topspin or a flick. And you can pick up a legit one on AliExpress for under £30 incl. postage and it's a great rubber for any level above lower intermediate. XIOM Vega X also worked well in that respect: somehow close to GA8, fast, spinny, catches the ball well, but it felt softer and was a bit too bouncy for my liking.
But this is just my game, yours could be different.
Your not the first one to say this and make same comparison. I do feel there is something not 100% about the G1 that I cant really put my finger on but it might be what you just mentioned.
It feels like I have to engage the sponge yes. This kind of reduce the dimensions of play.
I think ill order the GA8 to try.
How do I know which seller on aliexpress is the legit one?
also what sponge hardness do you recommend?
You think this seller is legit?:
 
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Your not the first one to say this and make same comparison. I do feel there is something not 100% about the G1 that I cant really put my finger on but it might be what you just mentioned.
It feels like I have to engage the sponge yes. This kind of reduce the dimensions of play.
I think ill order the GA8 to try.
How do I know which seller on aliexpress is the legit one?
also what sponge hardness do you recommend?
You think this seller is legit?:
I bought a couple of GA8 from HWSPORT Store you mentioned, another 2 from GHSports store and 3 or 4 from China PingPong Store, all were good.
 
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Z is the most popular rubber Rakza rubber. As for the graph, it's just a comparative trajectory illustration for spin vs speed. It doesn't mean that in real life your trajectory will be nessessary that high if you adjust your technique.
That applies to the other rubbers too . Then why the graphs if technique is involved? There is no spin or speed that one paddle can generate that the others can't.
 
Z is the most popular rubber Rakza rubber. As for the graph, it's just a comparative trajectory illustration for spin vs speed. It doesn't mean that in real life your trajectory will be nessessary that high if you adjust your technique. I have had RZ on 5 different blades and I've learned that it's quite picky in that regard. Nittaku Ludeack/RZ for example wasn't a good match. But RZ had great synergy with some hinoki carbon blades which had a lower throw. With a Darker 7P-2A.Carbon the trajectory is as flat as you wish and there's almost no bounce, the ball is gliding forward with lots of spin. You just need to close the racket more. RZ is so tacky/grippy, it requires some extreme angles and this makes it a bit harder to play with. But it rewards you with some ridiculous spin which your opponents will underestimate time and time again, and great control over the table. And with lower level opponents I sometimes can't help but return a higher, short, heavy backspin just to tempt them to "flat hit a line of sight" as you say. And I know 8 out of 10 the ball will hit the net. So RZ is all about the spin. If you're not careful and try to drive-spin it with an open racket, then yes, the trajectory and the bounce will be too high. In that respect R7 and RX are easier to play - both for you and your opponent shall I say. I never tried R9.
BTW in my view the pic is not quite right about R7 vs RX, the latter had a flatter arc and was a bit faster. But maybe it's just the lade.
That is the best review of Rakza Z I have ever heard! I have one sheet and the throw angle is so high, I don't know what to do with it! I am used to the hurricane low throw. I will figure it out. thank you for your feedback!
 
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Z is the most popular rubber Rakza rubber. As for the graph, it's just a comparative trajectory illustration for spin vs speed. It doesn't mean that in real life your trajectory will be nessessary that high if you adjust your technique. I have had RZ on 5 different blades and I've learned that it's quite picky in that regard. Nittaku Ludeack/RZ for example wasn't a good match. But RZ had great synergy with some hinoki carbon blades which had a lower throw. With a Darker 7P-2A.Carbon the trajectory is as flat as you wish and there's almost no bounce, the ball is gliding forward with lots of spin. You just need to close the racket more. RZ is so tacky/grippy, it requires some extreme angles and this makes it a bit harder to play with. But it rewards you with some ridiculous spin which your opponents will underestimate time and time again, and great control over the table. And with lower level opponents I sometimes can't help but return a higher, short, heavy backspin just to tempt them to "flat hit a line of sight" as you say. And I know 8 out of 10 the ball will hit the net. So RZ is all about the spin. If you're not careful and try to drive-spin it with an open racket, then yes, the trajectory and the bounce will be too high. In that respect R7 and RX are easier to play - both for you and your opponent shall I say. I never tried R9.
BTW in my view the pic is not quite right about R7 vs RX, the latter had a flatter arc and was a bit faster. But maybe it's just the lade.
Great review indeed! Agreed on everything especially R7/RX throw comparison.

That is the best review of Rakza Z I have ever heard! I have one sheet and the throw angle is so high, I don't know what to do with it! I am used to the hurricane low throw. I will figure it out. thank you for your feedback!
My experience on using the RZ family. The first 30 mins of play would result in unbelievable high throw due to weird over-tackiness. Wear that sticky layer out and the rubber starts to perform properly, i.e. with an appropriate amount of tackiness. Depending on the intensity, play for a session or two more and the sponge would get warmed-up. The softened sponge will be bouncier unlike its original hard and dead feel. This is when the rubber performs best and this state would last for a very long time.

RZ-EH is an interesting alternative to RZ if you can handle the sponge hardness. Tackiness/spin is somewhat reduced but not by much. Speed is significantly higher and trajectory is longer.
 
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says I'm still learning Table Tennis.
says I'm still learning Table Tennis.
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I agree. Rakza 7 is still the best all around rubber. And it lasts like forever!

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Guys, are all Rakza series like last forever? What about Rakza Z? It's more expensive than other Rakza rubbers. I'm thinking on my next rubbers something that last at least couple of years or more. FYI, I train & play everyday after work, 2-3 hours, 4-5 days a week. Minus rest and talking, guess the actual duration that my rubbers really playing is around 1 to 1½ hours per session. 90% of the strokes are drives, topspins & pushes.
 
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