This user has no status.
This user has no status.
like i said,stop asking,choose according to manufacture rating,buy, then come back here
I asked here because this blade is a big recommendations from that coach who fooled me and even from the salesman who never know me or saw me playing or whatever, so what is about this blade that make it highly recommended by many here? because in my area there are not many options at all and i am forced to go with whatever i can find even it is not the best option out there of any brand, and from reviews, this blade isn't any better for starter than Donic or Butterfly or Stiga, i feel they recommended it only because it was cheap, if so i found cheaper blades and was better recommended online.
I will ask them again if they can offer the model i look for or say recommended by you here, if not then either i go with whatever i see there or i buy it online.
OK, TareqPhoto. Let's try again.
The blade I use now costs $60 (Tibhar Samsonov Force Pro). The most expensive blade I have ever used cost $160 (Killerspin Titanium Carbon) and it cost me a key match when I was in the 1800s, after which I swore never to use it again. I used a $22 blade to beat a woman who after the tournament was rated 2156 and would have broken 2200 easily if she didn't lose to me (I was 1800 and it was on the same day that I lost to a 1500 guy with the Killerspin Titanium Carbon).
My best victories have come with blades that I bought for:
$22 (Dawei Quattro Limba) - I was rated 1800 and beat someone who was rated 2100,
$30 (Giant Dragon BalsaDef) - I was rated 1700 and beat a man who was in the 2000s, and I used the same blade in October last year while frustrated with the Plastic ball to beat 3 2000 players in one event when I had dropped to 1850
$50 (Joola Rossi Emotion) - I was rated 1800 and had quite a few 2000 players using it.
$60 (Tibhar Samsonov Force Pro) - This was the blade I used to break 2000 and I have beaten several 2100 opponents with it.
I have spent thousands of dollars on equipment. While I don't want to spend money on butterfly blades, I did have a Primorac wood before giving it away (I never liked the flare handle as I prefer straight handles). While I now hate the $160 Killerspin TC, I do not feel as strongly about the $110-$130 blades I bought in the Xiom Vega series. They are okay, I still have them, but believe it or not, I prefer my $60 Tibhar Samsonov Force Pro. I have also had some good wins with them, but not quite like my best wins and I still prefer my $60 blade. I will probably sell them to someone more deserving at some point in time.
I have used many rubbers. I have probably spent more on rubbers than on blades - I have used lots of stuff from Butterfly, Donic, Joola, Tibhar, Andro, Hurricane, Yinhe etc. In fact, in March last year, I decided that I had wasted too much money on rubbers and committed 100% to just using Tenergy 05, which is pretty much the most expensive rubber out there. However, I found a rubber that I finally liked more than Tenergy 05 and it cost me $20. So now, I am using a $60 blade with $20 rubbers for a $100 setup.
Money is not always quality in this sport. Blades are more expensive usually because of the materials and research that went into making them, but many good players use very cheap blades. My blade is supposed the one used by Vladimir Samsonov, who has been in the top 15 in the world for almost 20 years and is a living legend of table tennis. I saw Bojan Tokic, WR #50 or so, when he came to the US last year and I asked to see his setup. His blade, a Stratus Powerwood, is about $55 and is all wood.
So you see, complaining because someone recommended you a cheap blade is really more about what you don't understand than what the other person is trying to do to you. The Yasaka Max Wood, from what I have read, is the Yasaka version/twist on my current blade (Seven-ply limba/ayous or limba/ayous/koto). A sensible offensive choice, probably a bit fast, but can be handled reasonably well compared to most composite blades. I am 95% sure that I would enjoy playing with it.
(Reads previous post with puzzled look - are people really this ridiculous...)
(Smiles...)
(Recognizes a lost cause when he sees one...)
(Goes off to prepare for tomorrow's tournament drive )
Oh, I will. And when I come back, English will still be your second language!Have a nice day!!!
Oh, I will. And when I come back, English will still be your second language!
Not at all - you still have a lot to learn about your 2nd language and table tennis. And you are trying to learn, unfortunately, not as quickly as some would like, but you are doing well.It is, and i am sorry if that second language caused a lot of troubles [trolls] to you here, enjoy your time!!!
also,quality depends on various factors,not only price.
These include wood used,how its glued,the size of each ply etc,the QC that was done after etc.
Not at all - you still have a lot to learn about your 2nd language and table tennis. And you are trying to learn, unfortunately, not as quickly as some would like, but you are doing well.
True, and why that coach and the salesman didn't told me about all these details? it is like they have no clue about those and they just recommend according to their use or handle or experience, and about rackets specifications, if i didn't come here or search the net i may end up just playing blindly without knowing the type of rackets and materials and so ever, i should know some basics or fundamentals before i even play, but i played in the past and what a shame i wasn't reading about the TT details.
Well, i hope even this will not a problem, because i can't trust them to make that custom blade for me, they may not glue it good, they may cut something, they may do anything to my custom racket if i don't watch them so i will be forced to go back to them and pay them again, always when business is involved you can't trust the salesmen much these days unless you know them very well [unfortunately not much in my country].
Ah, this post helped me understand you much better. I am from a country like that originally. And I see where your posts are coming from in general now.
Thank God finally you understand, if i didn't mention it you may never know and still in that puzzle circle [maybe you still].
Well, all I can say is that your situation does not change the advice we have given you. The only difference is that I can understand your skepticism, but that you need to understand that table tennis is less about equipment and more about skill. If you give a better player bad equipment and a worse player good equipment but both equipment are still usable, the equipment will not change the result. But I can see why you might need a nice blade if some people will not take you seriously unless you have the right brand name. Back where I come from though, the coach at the club I went to (I estimated him at 2200-2300 because he was giving me 5 points and the games were still competitive) was using a very old Primorac Wood with Joola Extra Energy rubbers. But in general, because the coaches have to make money, sometimes, they don't teach you in the fastest way - they sometimes spend too much time wasting your time unless you are a talent junior.
The Wakaba is a low quality premade blade so don't confuse it with an ALL+/OFF- blade.
My final advice is that you are going to play for fun - buy what you enjoy playing with. Do know that if you ever want to get good coaching, you may have some trouble learning good strokes with a faster blade. But it is not impossible - it is just harder. Also, when people attack you, it is harder to absorb the ball with feeling with a faster blade. The mistake that many people make when they start table tennis is that they only think of their own shots, but as you get better, you have to understand that your opponent is also hitting the ball, and that you need to learn to reflect and add to his power so your power looks great, but you only added to his power so you didn't do much but you look really good . This is easier with a fast blade, but also hard to control with a fast blade, so it is usually recommended you get something not to fast, not too slow, so that you can add power and not be scared of swinging back if your opponent attacks you with power and you don't go too far from the table. The other thing is that if you learn from good players, the way you attack fast now will improve and when it improves, you will be able to hit the ball much better even with the ALL+/OFF- blade.
I mean, I remember one player I played back home, he used the same Titanium Carbon blade that I hated. He liked the power of the blade because he smashed with his backhand a lot. He beat a lot of people he played with because he had some training. But when he played me, he had no chance unless I lazily put a ball in front of him for him to smash (which I sometimes brought back), because he could not control any of my attacks. I used a clipper wood, but the difference was that when he attacked, I had enough feel and control to bring it back, but when I used topspin, he did not know how to control it.
Cutting a very long story short, my friend, buy whatever you want to buy. But try not to buy something too fast in case you ever want to get coaching and someone really wants to teach you good strokes, okay? You can still learn but it will just take you much longer.