Homemade table tennis blade

[GinjaNinja]

Isn't it hard to choose which blade to play with, when having a shitload of nice blades?

Brilliant, very well put. Yes that's how it feels and now I'm starting to worry it might affect my game. Most of my practice sessions are now focussed on testing blades rather than training. However, I enjoy making blades and the feedback is useful. At some point I need to decide which I like best and then stick to it.

 

[bobpuls]

Isn't it hard to choose which blade to play with, when having a shitload of nice blades?

Yes you are right .;-)

 

[shinshiro]

After a quick play with the robot I can say that the control is really good, speed is also good and there is a nice feel to it too. This is the first blade I've made with only 3mm of Kiri, usually i build with 3.5 to 4.2 so i was expecting this to lack power but it doesn't. All in all, I'm very happy with this. I'm playing later this week so I'll be able to give it a proper test then.

Thanks, keep us informed
I've read many people saying that the unique feeling of Violin may be due to using hide glue instead of other types of glue. I don't know exactly what is this glue, but do you have access to it? It would be very interesting if you could use it too

 

[GinjaNinja]

Hide glue is made from animal hide and is traditionally used to glue musical instruments as its reversible with heat. I do have some and I'm planning to use it when it get hold of a suitable heat source as it needs to be melted and then kept at a constant temperature. I don't know if mdp, bob plus or any other blade makers have used it. What I will say is that glues have a massive impact on the way a blade plays and feels.

 

[bobpuls]

I never tested it ..... try it and let us now .

 

[Andy Eagles]

Evening all. First post on here. I'm fortunate to have one of these lovely works of art. Fortunately I remembered to take a picture of it with the appropriate label before setting it up last night.

 

[GinjaNinja]

A busy week's work whilst on leave, made 4 blades but ran out of time to finish the fifth!
From left to right- limba,fir,ayous; cherry,limba,Kiri; koto,fir,ayous; walnut,mahogany,Kiri; and unfinished one at the top is rosewood, spruce, ayous.

 

[GinjaNinja]

This blade was for a TTD member. It's a black limbs - fir - ayous composition with an olive ash and oak handle.

 

[tropical]

This blade fits my style very well. It is very easy to control, light (85grams), flexible with a decent sweet spot. I always need an ALL+ and it is a perfect fit. Thanks Alan....

 

[GinjaNinja]

This blade fits my style very well. It is very easy to control, light (85grams), flexible with a decent sweet spot. I always need an ALL+ and it is a perfect fit. Thanks Alan....

Don - I'm happy you're happy! It was a pleasure working with you.

 

[tropical]

I want to order one more. Please send me an invoice.

 

[GinjaNinja]

I want to order one more. Please send me an invoice.

Don, - I've sent you a message.

 

[GinjaNinja]

I want to order one more. Please send me an invoice.

Don's (Tropical) new blade, same composition but white limba instead of black. White limba isn't that easy to get hold of in the UK and the first time I've used it. It has a lovely but subtle golden sheen to it. Limba- fir - ayous 5 ply, 5.6mm 87g all plus blade. Don asked for a thinner handle, so this is 2.2mm rather than the usual 2.5mm and a touch narrower too.

 

[GinjaNinja]

I've recently been experimenting with hide glue. I'm still testing a few blades at the moment and initial results are positive but I'll post further details on a few weeks. I did find the glue quite time consuming to use, it requires much more preparation and attention than any other glue. What I would say though is that it provides a great bond, really strong and it's much easier to clean up than other glue types. For anyone who is thinking about using it, you'll need the right equipment. I'm lucky enough to have a double boiler which has really helped!

The three blades below were all made with hide glue:
Walnut - mahogany - kiri - 6.2mm, 85g



Ash - ash - kiri - 5.5mm. A very well known composition. The handle is yew - incredible colour with this wood.

mahogany - ayous - kiri 6.4mm. 95g. Oak and beech handle, a different design with a curved element to it

 

[shinshiro]

Your blade handles are getting more and more beautififul, very nice!
Looking forward to more details about hide glue blades!

 

[bobpuls]

Nice handles... Great work

 

[UpSideDownCarl]

I had a question about the handles.

I know with a handle like this:

If the wood is different, the way it is layered does not effect how it feels in an odd or disruptive way.

And with a handle like this:

The same cheap wood that is dyed blue on one side of the design is also died yellow or other colors—depending on the blade— on the other parts of the design. So even though there is a color pattern, the wood is the same.

With patterns like you are using, where the patterns are created by different woods, like Beach and Oak, or other combinations, how does that feel in your hand with woods of different hardnesses next to each other in asymmetrical patterns? Does it feel good like it gives you extra grip? Or does it feel awkward as if the softer woods have too much give or the harder woods are too unforgiving?

Also, do the harder woods, like Oak, absorb your sweat adequately?


Sent from The Subterranean Workshop by Telepathy

 

[GinjaNinja]

I had a question about the handles.

I know with a handle like this:

If the wood is different, the way it is layered does not effect how it feels in an odd or disruptive way.

And with a handle like this:

The same cheap wood that is dyed blue on one side of the design is also died yellow or other colors—depending on the blade— on the other parts of the design. So even though there is a color pattern, the wood is the same.

With patterns like you are using, where the patterns are created by different woods, like Beach and Oak, or other combinations, how does that feel in your hand with woods of different hardnesses next to each other in asymmetrical patterns? Does it feel good like it gives you extra grip? Or does it feel awkward as if the softer woods have too much give or the harder woods are too hard?


Sent from The Subterranean Workshop by Telepathy

That's a good question Carl. I do try to avoid using really hard woods for the main part of the handle as they tend to be too heavy and can feel quite hard. Oak, walnut, ash and beech are quite hard but they are not ebony, rosewood etc. Every piece of feedback I've had has been that the feel is better than the softer woods. Some like the grainy feel of oak and some like the smoother feel of beech. I also think some people don't care or perhaps don't notice that much as they are more interested in the way it looks. I'm not criticising them in any way - everyone is different. The rainbow style yew handle has probably attracted most interest and admiration. Not only are the colours amazing, the feel of the wood is extremely pleasant, but it's very hard to describe. I would probably make every handle in this wood, however, it's quite an unusual piece and I haven't got much left! As for combination woods I don't think it's noticeable as long as it's finished correctly both in quality of the sanding and the varnishing. I've spent considerable time trying to perfect the handle finish. In answer to your question, for me harder wood gives better grip than the softer woods. I have a few mass manufactured and I find the softer wood tends to 'smooth' over a period of time and therefore lose grip.
As I think we've discussed before - it's probably down to personal preference! It would be interesting to see what others think.

 

[UpSideDownCarl]

As for combination woods I don't think it's noticeable as long as it's finished correctly both in quality of the sanding and the varnishing.

Oh. So you are also using some form of finish or sealant on the handle.

That adds another question. I like the wood naked.

I agree that slightly harder woods usually feel better. I also like the wood a little rough or grainy. Not too smooth or sanded. No matter how soft or hard the wood, over time your hand wears and shapes it.

But I have not liked the handles I have tried that had some form of finish added.

Perhaps your method is different. What do you use to finish? Does the wood still maintain the ability to absorb the sweat from your hand?

I value that quality.


Sent from The Subterranean Workshop by Telepathy

 

[GinjaNinja]

Oh. So you are also using some form of finish or sealant on the handle.

That adds another question. I like the wood naked.

I agree that slightly harder woods usually feel better. I also like the wood a little rough or grainy. Not too smooth or sanded. No matter how soft or hard the wood, over time your hand wears and shapes it.

But I have not liked the handles I have tried that had some form of finish added.

Perhaps your method is different. What do you use to finish? Does the wood still maintain the ability to absorb the sweat from your hand?

I value that quality.


Sent from The Subterranean Workshop by Telepathy

You have to be very careful when varnishing the handle, it has to be very subtle. I've sometimes gone too far and ended with a handle that looks great but makes your hand sweaty - Bobpuls has made this point somewhere else, perhaps in this thread and he's right. In my experience the key is to use a mixture of highly thinned varnish, applying two coats and leaving it at least a day between coats. It's hard to say what ratio it is as I added to the mix as I've gone along. I'd suggest it's probably 70 - 80% thinner. Depending on the wood and how it feels I will give it a quick sand after varnishing so that it's not too smooth. I suppose it ends up more of a sealant than a varnish.
The other advantage to hard woods is that they tend to be a bit easier to work with, the softer woods can be quite delicate when routing. As I've mentioned, I have to reduce weight from harder woods which takes time and effort but does allow me to fine tune the balance. This also affects what woods you can select, so for example if you wanted a light handle of 8 or 9g you won't get it made from rosewood or ebony as you couldn't remove enough of the weight.

Interestingly the OPS blade looks like it's walnut (or mahogany) as the top layered piece but then something like basswood and ayous. Does anyone know what they are, I'm just guessing? As well as looking great, they have the outer hard wood which is the majority of the surface area and then softer and lighter inners which will compensate for the heavier wood.