Hurricane 3 OS unboosted break-in period

says sidespin for the win
Hey, guys.

I have a question regarding the Hurricane 3 Pro OS unboosted - what exactly can I expect from it in the upcoming training sessions? I'm talking about the "break-in period." Will the rubber become faster? More bouncy?

Yesterday, I had my first training session with the freshly glued Hurricane (about 4 hours). I didn't boost the rubber because I wanted to see how it performs without it and to know how many layers of booster to use later if needed. The rubber is almost non-tacky. The result was what I expected - good blocks, chops, generally good short game (I tended to play like Ma Lin), a stable forehand that performed very fast when needed. The only drawback I noticed was in overly passive blocks and a lack of speed on long serves. I guess I just need to adjust. But overall, good control and decent speed compared to my Nittaku Hammond z2. If it were a bit faster, it would be ideal, so I'm wondering if I should boost it or just wait a few more training sessions.

Thank you very much for your response.
 
says Fair Play first
says Fair Play first
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Just roll the bowling ball all over rubber surface back and forth. It takes you one or two processing sessions.

Be happy.
 
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says TT is easy: just place the ball on the table 1 time more...
says TT is easy: just place the ball on the table 1 time more...
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Play a bit more with it unboosted. You'll both break-in the rubber and adjust to it. I think after 3-4 training session if you want more new sensations or you still lack speed, you would go for 1 layer.

If you boost it now, the rubber would behave pretty much differently. And passive blocks are either bad when it's boosted.
 
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says Fair Play first
says Fair Play first
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SOME UNCONVENTIONAL THINGS TO GET HARD SPONGE MORE SPRINGY. (high elasticity conversion) .

For your practical need any weighty spheres will do pretty well. Such as iron shots being used in the track&field sport.

Weight

In open competitions the men's shot weighs 7.26 kilograms (16 lb), and the women's shot weighs 4 kilograms (8.82 lb). Junior, school, and masters competitions often use different weights of shots, typically below the weights of those used in open competitions.

Be happy.
 
says Table tennis clown
says Table tennis clown
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The rubber is almost non-tacky.
So you must have the newest version H3. Yesterday I glued a red sheet of H3 OS on a new blade , my rubbers are of the old version they are so tacky that once you remove the plastic protection film a ball dropped on to the rubber will NOT bounce at all.
I know that the new versions are less tacky (or sticky) but they still have the grip and I would not expect any difference after many hours of play.
IMO, the rubber is doing exactly what is has been designed to do. 😁
 
says sidespin for the win
So you must have the newest version H3. Yesterday I glued a red sheet of H3 OS on a new blade , my rubbers are of the old version they are so tacky that once you remove the plastic protection film a ball dropped on to the rubber will NOT bounce at all.
I know that the new versions are less tacky (or sticky) but they still have the grip and I would not expect any difference after many hours of play.
Interesting. I was actually slightly disappointed. But it's not that is matters anyhow. Lifting the ball with the rubber is just so cool.
IMO, the rubber is doing exactly what is has been designed to do. 😁
I think so too. Today I played another 4 hours. I guess the rubber is doing what it should be doing. Anyways, I am going to slightly boost my Hurricane.
 
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says Table tennis clown
says Table tennis clown
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Anyways, I am going to slightly boost my Hurricane.
I hope you have the time and the patience to boost one step at the time. These new model H3 boost different to the older versions. They don't seem to curl as easy but once you got them curling like a horseshoe you may end up with a tensor-like bounce . You may like it - you may not. 🤣
 
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I have a kettlebell at home. Is that okay?
Please don't do that, you'll be wondering why the topsheet is coming off.😂

Dhs has famously bad cq and bad gluing in general. Put too much force into the topsheet and the pimples will start dancing tsifteteli. Boosting is a whole other kind of tension, it's even and that's why there's no problems with it.

Also to answer your question, play with it as is for a few times, I like to play with them for a month before I change anything, and if you feel like it's too slow, boost by 1 layer. I don't think blocking will become easier though, looping and countering will be more effective, but everything else becomes a bit more challenging. You are tensioning it after all, it will become more responsive and lively.
 
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I hope you have the time and the patience to boost one step at the time. These new model H3 boost different to the older versions. They don't seem to curl as easy but once you got them curling like a horseshoe you may end up with a tensor-like bounce . You may like it - you may not. 🤣

I actually have a question regarding this. I am currently playing with h3 neo commercial 39 for the first time (with 1layer of haifu)

To my surprise, the rubber is about as bouncy as my fastarc g1, just lower arc and different technique needed to activate it.

Is this normal? I was kind of hoping for the rubber to be more „dead“ since I wanted to to practise how to generate my own power.

Should I try it unboosted next time?
Also, it is barely sticky after 2-3 sessions (I am using a protective sheet and only cleaned with a bit of water)
 
says Table tennis clown
says Table tennis clown
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I actually have a question regarding this. I am currently playing with h3 neo commercial 39 for the first time (with 1layer of haifu)

To my surprise, the rubber is about as bouncy as my fastarc g1, just lower arc and different technique needed to activate it.

Is this normal? I was kind of hoping for the rubber to be more „dead“ since I wanted to to practise how to generate my own power.

Should I try it unboosted next time?
Also, it is barely sticky after 2-3 sessions (I am using a protective sheet and only cleaned with a bit of water)
I can not really give good advise because my H3 rubbers are all old. When I discovered H3 , I was so exited about them that I laid up a stash of them in my cupboard. They are all sticky and stay sticky for a long time. New version of both H3 and H3 neo are not sticky anymore but they do still give good grip.

There are two rubbers I could recommend that I consider "dead-rubbers" (I can already hear the protests in the background )😁
The first would be LAC , Loki Arthur China
And the other Loki Rxton9
Both rubbers will give "rocket-speed" in a linear fashion, the harder you hit them the faster they get.
 
I actually have a question regarding this. I am currently playing with h3 neo commercial 39 for the first time (with 1layer of haifu)

To my surprise, the rubber is about as bouncy as my fastarc g1, just lower arc and different technique needed to activate it.

Is this normal? I was kind of hoping for the rubber to be more „dead“ since I wanted to to practise how to generate my own power.

Should I try it unboosted next time?
Also, it is barely sticky after 2-3 sessions (I am using a protective sheet and only cleaned with a bit of water)
Next time try a regular H3 (orange sponge it’s a bit cheaper). But boost it lightly or it will be really dead.
The Neo is sponged to be closer to an ESN rubber.

Cheers
L-zr
 
says sidespin for the win
I hope you have the time and the patience to boost one step at the time. These new model H3 boost different to the older versions. They don't seem to curl as easy but once you got them curling like a horseshoe you may end up with a tensor-like bounce . You may like it - you may not. 🤣
Haha. Who would've thought that patience and time would be so crucial for just one layer of boosting? Doesn't take much time at all, except for the 12-24 hours waiting period for it to dry. Are table tennis players these days really that impatient?
 
says sidespin for the win
I actually have a question regarding this. I am currently playing with h3 neo commercial 39 for the first time (with 1layer of haifu)

To my surprise, the rubber is about as bouncy as my fastarc g1, just lower arc and different technique needed to activate it.

Is this normal? I was kind of hoping for the rubber to be more „dead“ since I wanted to to practise how to generate my own power.

Should I try it unboosted next time?
Also, it is barely sticky after 2-3 sessions (I am using a protective sheet and only cleaned with a bit of water)

It seems like your rubber might be too soft for boosting at 39 degrees. I currently have an unboosted H3 40 OS on my forehand, and I still feel like the ball flies quite effortlessly. I only experience the dead feeling with overly passive blocks. I'm quite curious about how an unboosted H3 41 would play.

So yes, next time try not boosting or using H3 39 non-neo version as someone else pointed out (but don't boost) or even consider using H3 40 like me; it will definitely make a significant difference. If it feels too dead, worst case scenario, you can add half or one layer of booster.

Also, how long ago did you boost it? Once the booster dissipates and the rubber wears a bit, there might be the desired effect.
 
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says Table tennis clown
says Table tennis clown
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Haha. Who would've thought that patience and time would be so crucial for just one layer of boosting? Doesn't take much time at all, except for the 12-24 hours waiting period for it to dry. Are table tennis players these days really that impatient?
It probably has more to do with so many variable and conflicting information these days.
Some will say : Don't boost
some will suggest to just boost 1 layer
and others will insist that you should apply many layer of boost until the 2 ends of the rubber touch and make a circle.

So then the temptation will rise to just say: "Fu%# it , I give it 3 layers and glue it on the blade". 🤣 ....................and now one would have just ruined a perfectly good rubber .
 
says sidespin for the win
It probably has more to do with so many variable and conflicting information these days.
Some will say : Don't boost
some will suggest to just boost 1 layer
and others will insist that you should apply many layer of boost until the 2 ends of the rubber touch and make a circle.

So then the temptation will rise to just say: "Fu%# it , I give it 3 layers and glue it on the blade". 🤣 ....................and now one would have just ruined a perfectly good rubber .

People who boost with three layers without any experience with H3 or boosting are indeed a bit crazy (and obviously have a lot of time and resources).

Yet, there's a simple guide for newcomers with H3 - try the rubber without booster first, and then, if needed, start with just one layer. Some time ago, I naively glued two-year-old H3 onto a wood that was for $15 thinking how dead and slow it will be. I applied two layers of booster. The hits were like whips when max power. Just as fast as an ESN rubber on a fast blade. Since then, I've been more cautious about boosting.
 
says Table tennis clown
says Table tennis clown
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Some time ago, I naively glued two-year-old H3 onto a wood that was for $15 thinking how dead and slow it will be.
I got a blade i bought for NZ$ 3.65 from aliexpress and it has a frequency of just over 1500 Hz . I use them with H3s and Rxton5s and it gives (shall we say) a surprising performance 😁😁😁
 
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