Hey guys this is my first post on Table Tennis Daily *round of applause*! I really need you guys' opinions on a topic that I have been having a dilemma with lately. I'm talking about sleepless nights waking up in cold sweat kind of vibe. Ok, I'm exaggerating but I did once dream about this though.

Context:
So for context and to aid you in providing input, I would say I am not a bad player. Definitely not the best but also definitely skilled enough to be called above average. I've been playing table tennis since I was around 4 or 5 (forced by my parents) and despite a 4-year hiatus from 2018-2022, have been playing ever since. Therefore I would argue that my basic fundamentals are quite sound and I possess the proper technique for each stroke. I do believe I am not really an all-out attacker, but an all-rounder of sorts. I will only brutally attack when I think that there is a high chance of the ball landing on the opponent's half. I enjoy incorporating different strokes into my game to manipulate my opponent, only occasionally winning points on pure spin and speed alone.

Current Set-up:
I am currently using a Stiga Ebenholz NCT VII blade with Nittaku Moristo SP Black (1.8mm) on my backhand and Yasaka Rakza Z Extra Hard Red (MAX) on my forehand.

Problem/Issue:
This is where I started having nightmares about what to choose for my forehand rubber. There are simply too many on the market right now and I am feeling bombarded by choices.

Currently, my Rakza Z EH is facing 2 main issues I wish to address by changing a forehand rubber.
  1. Weight
    I have never personally measured Rakza Z EH's weight, but I could feel that it was heavier than the Xiom Vega China I used to use. Since Ebenholz NCT VII is already quite a heavy blade, I wish to cut down on my racket's weight as I feel that ever since I switched to Rakza Z EH, I have lost some of my racket speed and it's getting increasingly tiring when using the set-up in drills and whatnot.
  2. Hardness
    As I am a short-pips user on my backhand, my playstyle is typically close to the table. Therefore I feel that I am unable to properly utilise and engage the ROCK HARD sponge of the Rakza Z EH. Also, since the Ebenholz NCT VII has an ebony outer ply, it is considered quite a hard blade. The combination of such a hard rubber + hard blade + me playing close to the table has caused me to make many unforced errors that I would not have made last time. This has caused me so much pain and suffering as I find myself struggling against players I had no trouble dealing with in the past.
Choices:
This is where my nightmare began. I am currently considering a few rubbers and I have my personal preferences I will not state so as to not make your opinions biased. Nevertheless, each choice has its pros and cons, and I'm unable to properly determine which pros outweigh which cons and vice versa.
  1. Tibhar Evolution MX-P50 (2.1-2.2mm)

  2. Xiom Jekyll & Hyde V52.5 (MAX)

  3. Friendship Battle 2 Provincial H39 (2.1mm)

  4. Friendship Battle 2 National H38 (2.1mm)

  5. Friendship Battle 3 H39 (2.1mm)
After countless hours of research and many rounds of elimination, these are the options I am left with.

For options 1 and 2, they are not really my first choice of rubber, but I had to include them here as I already have them available, meaning that if I do switch to either option I do not need to spend extra hard-earned money for a new piece of rubber. I would also greatly appreciate it if someone could compare these 2 rubbers with each other and my current Rakza Z EH as well as how they would play close to the table.

For options 3-5, they would be my ideal choice of rubber for my forehand, but I would have to purchase them separately. However, this would only be the case if there is some sort of unanimous decision that options 1 and 2 are totally inadequate for my play style. I have read that Battle 2/3 is sort of like a boosted H3 Neo which is the main reason I wish to try it out. If you guys do end up choosing Battle 2/3, please enlighten me on which variation would be the best and provide reasoning as well (I beg).

If you do have a suggestion for a rubber not on the list that's fine too as long as you can successfully convince me in the comments why it would complement me perfectly :)

Thank you so much if you have somehow survived my rambling and made it here. When providing your input, do keep in mind that I am trying to cut weight as well as reduce hardness. I play close to the table and value control and placement over raw power. Your input would be greatly appreciated and whoever provides valuable insight will be met with unlimited hugs and kisses from me (with consent of course).

Hope y'all can cure my insomnia soon. Ciao!
 
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Xiom Jekyll & Hyde V52.5 (MAX) then Tibhar Evolution MX-P50 (2.1-2.2mm)

Don't let your investment go to waste.
 
Xiom Jekyll & Hyde V52.5 (MAX) then Tibhar Evolution MX-P50 (2.1-2.2mm)

Don't let your investment go to waste.
Would you happen to know the V52.5 would play? Like what rubber would you compare it to?
 
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Hey guys this is my first post on Table Tennis Daily *round of applause*! I really need you guys' opinions on a topic that I have been having a dilemma with lately. I'm talking about sleepless nights waking up in cold sweat kind of vibe. Ok, I'm exaggerating but I did once dream about this though.

Context:
So for context and to aid you in providing input, I would say I am not a bad player. Definitely not the best but also definitely skilled enough to be called above average. I've been playing table tennis since I was around 4 or 5 (forced by my parents) and despite a 4-year hiatus from 2018-2022, have been playing ever since. Therefore I would argue that my basic fundamentals are quite sound and I possess the proper technique for each stroke. I do believe I am not really an all-out attacker, but an all-rounder of sorts. I will only brutally attack when I think that there is a high chance of the ball landing on the opponent's half. I enjoy incorporating different strokes into my game to manipulate my opponent, only occasionally winning points on pure spin and speed alone.

Current Set-up:
I am currently using a Stiga Ebenholz NCT VII blade with Nittaku Moristo SP Black (1.8mm) on my backhand and Yasaka Rakza Z Extra Hard Red (MAX) on my forehand.

Problem/Issue:
This is where I started having nightmares about what to choose for my forehand rubber. There are simply too many on the market right now and I am feeling bombarded by choices.

Currently, my Rakza Z EH is facing 2 main issues I wish to address by changing a forehand rubber.
  1. Weight
    I have never personally measured Rakza Z EH's weight, but I could feel that it was heavier than the Xiom Vega China I used to use. Since Ebenholz NCT VII is already quite a heavy blade, I wish to cut down on my racket's weight as I feel that ever since I switched to Rakza Z EH, I have lost some of my racket speed and it's getting increasingly tiring when using the set-up in drills and whatnot.
  2. Hardness
    As I am a short-pips user on my backhand, my playstyle is typically close to the table. Therefore I feel that I am unable to properly utilise and engage the ROCK HARD sponge of the Rakza Z EH. Also, since the Ebenholz NCT VII has an ebony outer ply, it is considered quite a hard blade. The combination of such a hard rubber + hard blade + me playing close to the table has caused me to make many unforced errors that I would not have made last time. This has caused me so much pain and suffering as I find myself struggling against players I had no trouble dealing with in the past.
Choices:
This is where my nightmare began. I am currently considering a few rubbers and I have my personal preferences I will not state so as to not make your opinions biased. Nevertheless, each choice has its pros and cons, and I'm unable to properly determine which pros outweigh which cons and vice versa.
  1. Tibhar Evolution MX-P50 (2.1-2.2mm)

  2. Xiom Jekyll & Hyde V52.5 (MAX)

  3. Friendship Battle 2 Provincial H39 (2.1mm)

  4. Friendship Battle 2 National H38 (2.1mm)

  5. Friendship Battle 3 H39 (2.1mm)
After countless hours of research and many rounds of elimination, these are the options I am left with.

For options 1 and 2, they are not really my first choice of rubber, but I had to include them here as I already have them available, meaning that if I do switch to either option I do not need to spend extra hard-earned money for a new piece of rubber. I would also greatly appreciate it if someone could compare these 2 rubbers with each other and my current Rakza Z EH as well as how they would play close to the table.

For options 3-5, they would be my ideal choice of rubber for my forehand, but I would have to purchase them separately. However, this would only be the case if there is some sort of unanimous decision that options 1 and 2 are totally inadequate for my play style. I have read that Battle 2/3 is sort of like a boosted H3 Neo which is the main reason I wish to try it out. If you guys do end up choosing Battle 2/3, please enlighten me on which variation would be the best and provide reasoning as well (I beg).

If you do have a suggestion for a rubber not on the list that's fine too as long as you can successfully convince me in the comments why it would complement me perfectly :)

Thank you so much if you have somehow survived my rambling and made it here. When providing your input, do keep in mind that I am trying to cut weight as well as reduce hardness. I play close to the table and value control and placement over raw power. Your input would be greatly appreciated and whoever provides valuable insight will be met with unlimited hugs and kisses from me (with consent of course).

Hope y'all can cure my insomnia soon. Ciao!
Why would you have Tibhar Evolution MX-P50 and Xiom Jekyll & Hyde V52.5? Do your parents play table tennis (and that's why they forced you to play ping pong? My thought is that if you don't use either rubber and your parents will use the rubber themselves, then consider alternatives.

For those two rubbers, I have only played with Evolution MX-P (not MX-P 50). It is fast. Like very fast.

The trend is to go really hard sponge on the forehand ESN rubbers nowadays but as it gets harder, the sponge has to get denser and the whole sheet therefore becomes heavier.

So I am not sure if either Evolution MX-P50 or Xiom Jekyll & Hyde V52.5 would be lighter than your current set-up.

However, if money is a concern, then give those rubbers a shot. I have no preference between either rubber. Just be aware that the Evolution series tend to have quite a bit of catapult effects.
 
Why would you have Tibhar Evolution MX-P50 and Xiom Jekyll & Hyde V52.5? Do your parents play table tennis (and that's why they forced you to play ping pong? My thought is that if you don't use either rubber and your parents will use the rubber themselves, then consider alternatives.

For those two rubbers, I have only played with Evolution MX-P (not MX-P 50). It is fast. Like very fast.

The trend is to go really hard sponge on the forehand ESN rubbers nowadays but as it gets harder, the sponge has to get denser and the whole sheet therefore becomes heavier.

So I am not sure if either Evolution MX-P50 or Xiom Jekyll & Hyde V52.5 would be lighter than your current set-up.

However, if money is a concern, then give those rubbers a shot. I have no preference between either rubber. Just be aware that the Evolution series tend to have quite a bit of catapult effects.
It's kinda hard to explain... long story... but basically, I have these 2 pieces lying around and I don't wanna buy new ones unless absolutely necessary.

I understand that forehand rubbers nowadays are getting harder and harder. However, with a hard blade such as the Ebenholz 7 I'm using, the ball flies off the racket way too fast, reducing control. In addition, I play mainly close to the table, so I seldom use a full stroke, thus I won't get the full effect of the hard sponge.
 
It's kinda hard to explain... long story... but basically, I have these 2 pieces lying around and I don't wanna buy new ones unless absolutely necessary.

I understand that forehand rubbers nowadays are getting harder and harder. However, with a hard blade such as the Ebenholz 7 I'm using, the ball flies off the racket way too fast, reducing control. In addition, I play mainly close to the table, so I seldom use a full stroke, thus I won't get the full effect of the hard sponge.
And also I'm considering the V52.5 and MXP50 as they're a tad softer than the current Rakza Z Extra Hard I'm using.

Rakza Z Extra Hard: 57 ESN
Jekyll&Hyde V52.5: 52.5 ESN
Evolution MX-P50: 50 ESN

Approximately. Correct me if I'm wrong though.
 
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What's wrong with Vega China?
 
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No I wouldn't say that Battle 2 or 3 are like a boosted H3N. They are quite similar to H3/H3N but perhaps a bit softer over all. Battle 3 is a more easy-to-play rubber and has a softer, bouncier feeling than B2.

LOKI Arthur China plays like a boosted H3 40deg somewhere.

Have you played a lot with Chinese rubbers like Hurricane or Battle 2 etc? I mean, so you know how they work?
 
No I wouldn't say that Battle 2 or 3 are like a boosted H3N. They are quite similar to H3/H3N but perhaps a bit softer over all. Battle 3 is a more easy-to-play rubber and has a softer, bouncier feeling than B2.

LOKI Arthur China plays like a boosted H3 40deg somewhere.

Have you played a lot with Chinese rubbers like Hurricane or Battle 2 etc? I mean, so you know how they work?
So would you say that B2 would be better in the short game since B3 is bouncier?

I've only tried Hurricane for Chinese rubbers but I do know how they work.

If LOKI Arthur China is like a boosted H3 40deg then it may be too hard for my liking. Looking for a softer alternative.
 
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So would you say that B2 would be better in the short game since B3 is bouncier?

I've only tried Hurricane for Chinese rubbers but I do know how they work.

If LOKI Arthur China is like a boosted H3 40deg then it may be too hard for my liking. Looking for a softer alternative.
Yes. Unboosted I think B2 is better in the short game.
I'd say that you should look at Yinhe Big Dipper 38deg, it's something softer and a bit bouncy.
LOKI GTX Pro is also a rubber with a bit more elasticity that could work.
And DHS Hurricane 8-80 is really quite nice.
Sanwei Gear Hyper is a almost untacky allround/offensive rubber that has more of a European feeling, but linear.
 
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Research is no substitute for actual experience as people can have differing opinions on the same rubber based on personal preferences. You at least have one data point as to how heavy and hard a rubber you do not want. I'm pretty sure Loki Arthur China is not as hard or as heavy as Rakza Z EH and it is is crispier and faster than the Battle 2's I've tried before. It's also quite affordable so not a big deal to try it out.
 
Hey guys this is my first post on Table Tennis Daily *round of applause*! I really need you guys' opinions on a topic that I have been having a dilemma with lately. I'm talking about sleepless nights waking up in cold sweat kind of vibe. Ok, I'm exaggerating but I did once dream about this though.

Context:
So for context and to aid you in providing input, I would say I am not a bad player. Definitely not the best but also definitely skilled enough to be called above average. I've been playing table tennis since I was around 4 or 5 (forced by my parents) and despite a 4-year hiatus from 2018-2022, have been playing ever since. Therefore I would argue that my basic fundamentals are quite sound and I possess the proper technique for each stroke. I do believe I am not really an all-out attacker, but an all-rounder of sorts. I will only brutally attack when I think that there is a high chance of the ball landing on the opponent's half. I enjoy incorporating different strokes into my game to manipulate my opponent, only occasionally winning points on pure spin and speed alone.

Current Set-up:
I am currently using a Stiga Ebenholz NCT VII blade with Nittaku Moristo SP Black (1.8mm) on my backhand and Yasaka Rakza Z Extra Hard Red (MAX) on my forehand.

Problem/Issue:
This is where I started having nightmares about what to choose for my forehand rubber. There are simply too many on the market right now and I am feeling bombarded by choices.

Currently, my Rakza Z EH is facing 2 main issues I wish to address by changing a forehand rubber.
  1. Weight
    I have never personally measured Rakza Z EH's weight, but I could feel that it was heavier than the Xiom Vega China I used to use. Since Ebenholz NCT VII is already quite a heavy blade, I wish to cut down on my racket's weight as I feel that ever since I switched to Rakza Z EH, I have lost some of my racket speed and it's getting increasingly tiring when using the set-up in drills and whatnot.
  2. Hardness
    As I am a short-pips user on my backhand, my playstyle is typically close to the table. Therefore I feel that I am unable to properly utilise and engage the ROCK HARD sponge of the Rakza Z EH. Also, since the Ebenholz NCT VII has an ebony outer ply, it is considered quite a hard blade. The combination of such a hard rubber + hard blade + me playing close to the table has caused me to make many unforced errors that I would not have made last time. This has caused me so much pain and suffering as I find myself struggling against players I had no trouble dealing with in the past.
Choices:
This is where my nightmare began. I am currently considering a few rubbers and I have my personal preferences I will not state so as to not make your opinions biased. Nevertheless, each choice has its pros and cons, and I'm unable to properly determine which pros outweigh which cons and vice versa.
  1. Tibhar Evolution MX-P50 (2.1-2.2mm)

  2. Xiom Jekyll & Hyde V52.5 (MAX)

  3. Friendship Battle 2 Provincial H39 (2.1mm)

  4. Friendship Battle 2 National H38 (2.1mm)

  5. Friendship Battle 3 H39 (2.1mm)
After countless hours of research and many rounds of elimination, these are the options I am left with.

For options 1 and 2, they are not really my first choice of rubber, but I had to include them here as I already have them available, meaning that if I do switch to either option I do not need to spend extra hard-earned money for a new piece of rubber. I would also greatly appreciate it if someone could compare these 2 rubbers with each other and my current Rakza Z EH as well as how they would play close to the table.

For options 3-5, they would be my ideal choice of rubber for my forehand, but I would have to purchase them separately. However, this would only be the case if there is some sort of unanimous decision that options 1 and 2 are totally inadequate for my play style. I have read that Battle 2/3 is sort of like a boosted H3 Neo which is the main reason I wish to try it out. If you guys do end up choosing Battle 2/3, please enlighten me on which variation would be the best and provide reasoning as well (I beg).

If you do have a suggestion for a rubber not on the list that's fine too as long as you can successfully convince me in the comments why it would complement me perfectly :)

Thank you so much if you have somehow survived my rambling and made it here. When providing your input, do keep in mind that I am trying to cut weight as well as reduce hardness. I play close to the table and value control and placement over raw power. Your input would be greatly appreciated and whoever provides valuable insight will be met with unlimited hugs and kisses from me (with consent of course).

Hope y'all can cure my insomnia soon. Ciao!
Ok after much contemplation I think I will save my hard-earned money and simply choose either option 1 or 2 to replace my forehand rubber since I already have them with me.

Anyone has any experience with these 2 rubbers and care to shed some light? i.e. playing characteristics, longevity, weight, etc. If someone could do a comparison between the 2 rubbers that would be fantastic as well.

1. Xiom Jekyll & Hyde V52.5 (MAX)
2. Tibhar Evolution MX-P 50 (2.1-2.2mm)
 
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No I wouldn't say that Battle 2 or 3 are like a boosted H3N. They are quite similar to H3/H3N but perhaps a bit softer over all. Battle 3 is a more easy-to-play rubber and has a softer, bouncier feeling than B2.

LOKI Arthur China plays like a boosted H3 40deg somewhere.

Have you played a lot with Chinese rubbers like Hurricane or Battle 2 etc? I mean, so you know how they work?
I'm using Battle 2 Pro Orange Sponge and it feels pretty soft and bouncy compared to other Chinese rubbers I've tried. Is Battle 3 an even easier-to-play rubber than that? If so, then I'm kinda interested, especially since it's supposed to be manufactured for improved durability/longevitity (manufacturer claim, so I take it with a grain of salt).
 
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Would you happen to know the V52.5 would play? Like what rubber would you compare it to?
Like any other high-end ESN grippy rubbers since 2012? According to Rallys, the V52.5 is a rubber with "strong arc and high COR" that is good for hard hitters.

As for weight, even though Ebenholz NCT VII, along with Rosewood NCT VII, are stiff and heavy, I personally find them light when paired with shortpips on the BH. They pair well with hard rubbers, which is why I suggest you stick to those 2 ESN rubbers. Do you have another slower blade lying around? The arc issue may also get alleviated.
 
Like any other high-end ESN grippy rubbers since 2012? According to Rallys, the V52.5 is a rubber with "strong arc and high COR" that is good for hard hitters.

As for weight, even though Ebenholz NCT VII, along with Rosewood NCT VII, are stiff and heavy, I personally find them light when paired with shortpips on the BH. They pair well with hard rubbers, which is why I suggest you stick to those 2 ESN rubbers. Do you have another slower blade lying around? The arc issue may also get alleviated.
I think I'll stick to the V52.5 for now unless I can somehow find a piece of Dignics 09c for cheap.
 
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I'm using Battle 2 Pro Orange Sponge and it feels pretty soft and bouncy compared to other Chinese rubbers I've tried. Is Battle 3 an even easier-to-play rubber than that? If so, then I'm kinda interested, especially since it's supposed to be manufactured for improved durability/longevitity (manufacturer claim, so I take it with a grain of salt).
Yep. It's easier in a way I think. Easier for someone that comes from Euro/Jap rubbers to use than Battle 2 in my opinion. Yes the durability is nothing I can say anything about so far.
 
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So how is it going, what are you using now? I’m surprised that nobody asked you why not just plain Rakza Z since you found EH version too hard and didn’t seem to have any other problems with it.
Considering your choices, only Battle 2 National Gold version is like a boosted H3 since it’s bouncier than regular Battle 2 provincial which I’ve used. If you want a tacky rubber close to the table I’d recommend Hurricane 2 Neo H39, it works better close to the table than Hurricane 3 Neo.
 
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So how is it going, what are you using now? I’m surprised that nobody asked you why not just plain Rakza Z since you found EH version too hard and didn’t seem to have any other problems with it.
Considering your choices, only Battle 2 National Gold version is like a boosted H3 since it’s bouncier than regular Battle 2 provincial which I’ve used. If you want a tacky rubber close to the table I’d recommend Hurricane 2 Neo H39, it works better close to the table than Hurricane 3 Neo.
How do you like Battle 2 provincial? I have one sheet of that, blue sponge. I have put it on a spare blade but have not used it that much. I am curious what your opinion would be as I eventually will cycle back to that blade.
 
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