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G-1 with higher throw and modern topsheet. That's it.What does MK play like?
G-1 with higher throw and modern topsheet. That's it.What does MK play like?
I don't agree. For me, MK feels less spin sensitive and less catapult.G-1 with higher throw and modern topsheet. That's it.
Yeah, when I read his post, I was thinking maybe I need to try G1 again, because that is definitely not how I remember it. I played G1 on all wood, I think I would break my shoulder playing MK on all wood, lol!I don't agree. For me, MK feels less spin sensitive and less catapult.
yeah agreed. I was using MK on my forehand for about three sheets worth, I did like it quite a bit after all. Then ended up wanting something with a little more catapult on that side. Went to G1 for a while (max) and honestly they're so different. They're both more 'linear' style rubbers, but G1 has way more catapult, less grip, and a different trajectory. They're both stable rubbers, but they're still very different rubbers when compared directly on the same blade. I have MK on the backhand side too, so I can at least eliminate a bit of inaccuracy due to memory.Yeah, when I read his post, I was thinking maybe I need to try G1 again, because that is definitely not how I remember it. I played G1 on all wood, I think I would break my shoulder playing MK on all wood, lol!
you can feel however you like about it and there might be different causes for this. Fact is that the japanese youtube channel anatomic edge has measured the Hybrid MK to be as low in catapult (in passive play) as the G-1. In terms of catapult support when doing active strokes it is hard to measure for me, but they are similar enough.I don't agree. For me, MK feels less spin sensitive and less catapult.
So you do compare MK in 2.0 to G-1 in max ?yeah agreed. I was using MK on my forehand for about three sheets worth, I did like it quite a bit after all. Then ended up wanting something with a little more catapult on that side. Went to G1 for a while (max) and honestly they're so different. They're both more 'linear' style rubbers, but G1 has way more catapult, less grip, and a different trajectory.
To answer your question: I used MK max on forehand through three sheets, and then started testing G1 max going double black to compare them and ended up accidentally liking MK for my backhand so much that I then decided to purchase in 2.0 red to have a legal racket. I'm not going off of a years old impression on a different blade at a different skill level like you implied in the other comment, nor am I basing my impression off of different thicknesses. They were on the same blade at the same time and the differences that I felt through my errored human hands caused me to prefer one over the other for my forehand side.So you do compare MK in 2.0 to G-1 in max ?
less grip is debatable. MK has a more modern topsheet which is highly grippy but at the very same time pretty suspectible to great a moist film on it which will degrade spin generation. This is similar like the Ando C48 which also has such a topsheet that will fail you on certain conditions / high humidity.
Perhaps we have different definitions for catapult. What is your definition and how can you measure both (without human influence)?
Update:
this is the list i was refering to:
To quote a few measurements:
They measure the grip by the force the rubber is able to "drag" with the rubbers topsheet
the catapult is measured by dropping the ball from a fixed height onto the rubber, so it is passive catapult (like in the short game)
Hardness is measured in Shore A taking into account topsheet + sponge
G-1 (1.8mm) - Grip 1.80 kg - Catapult 22cm - Hardness 32,5°
G-1 (2.3mm/Max) - Grip 1.65 kg - Catapult 23.5cm - Hardness 30.5°
Tibhar Hybrid MK (2.0mm) - Grip 1.75 kg - Catapult 22.5cm - Hardness 30,5°
Tibhar MX-D (2.0mm) - Grip 1.72 kg - Catapult 27.5cm - Hardness 29°
Tibhar MX-S (1.9mm) - Grip 1.60 kg - Catapult 27.5cm - Hardness 31,5°
Andro C48 (2.0mm) - Grip 1.77 kg - Catapult 25cm - Hardness 29,5°
Tenergy 05 (1.9mm) - Grip 0.9 kg - Catapult 30cm - Hardness 33°
Rakza 7 - (2.0mm) - Grip 0.87 kg - Catapult 27.5cm - Hardness 32.5°
We do see that there are some things that you would not expect (like the 1.8 G-1 feeling harder than the G-1 max, on the other side the thicker sponge could soften it)
Maybe you are right. Maybe if I spent some time testing G1 next to MK, maybe I will realize that my impact depth and swing speed have reach a point where neither rubber works for me anymore and they are more similar than different. I have my doubts about this, I felt G1 and C1 were both more spin reactive and power producing than MK. But my feeling could have changed for sure, I have been using 53+ degree sponge for a bit now and maybe G1 will not work for me either. A part of me has doubts, especially because I think the G1 plays more dynamically but I will wait until I have tested both again (which may never happen) before saying anything more on the subject. Right now. I broadly agree with beeray and his evaluation of the issue.you can feel however you like about it and there might be different causes for this. Fact is that the japanese youtube channel anatomic edge has measured the Hybrid MK to be as low in catapult (in passive play) as the G-1. In terms of catapult support when doing active strokes it is hard to measure for me, but they are similar enough.
For what can be measured by setting up a robot and having it shoot at the perpendicular blade or setting up sidespin serves and see how far they bounce to the side after hitting the rubber there is no noteworthy difference between the two rubbers (given both are in max and on the same blade).
if i was to go by some other peoples logic that are not able to directly compare the rubbers, because they played the G-1 in the distant past then i could say "tenergy 05 fx" is very hard too loop with, because i remember me having trouble looping when i used it. If given proper context one would acknowledge that i was probably not having a proper technique back then and thus issues were not related to the rubber, but to the own skills in the past.
That is why i would not compare the skin sensitivity of a past rubber with what i currently use, because i got much better in reading and adjusting for spin, but that does not make my current rubber (which is the hybrid mk) better or worse in that category.
what i did was compare G-1 max on HL-5 to Hybrid MK max on HL-5. Currently i play it in 2.0mm on my forehand for 3 weeks now.
anecdotal evidence: when i hit a spinny serve of topspin loop and the opponent asked "wow, what a spin. What kind of rubber was that?" it was always the G-1. Did not yet receive these comments about the Hybrid MK.
I can switch between g-1 and hybrid mk seemlessly just be adjusting the angle on active strokes.
there is a excel table on dropbox somewhere with all the measurings of anatomic edge's videos, which is quite comprehensive. Check it out and you will see that in all readings they are very close together.
That does not stop you from being entitled to your feelings playing with a hyped up new rubber.
another anecdote: There is this review of the hybrid mk where the tester summarizes it as a great rubber and that he will definitely play it. 4 Weeks later he creates a list of top tibhar rubbers and the hybrid mk is not even in the top 5.
I think many people get carried away by marketing.
If some of you hybrid mk lovers have a robot, simply test it with a stationary/fixed blade and record it. You will see how little the difference is.
This I will definitely give a shot. Maybe my current issues with MK are sponge hardness related but I struggled to get more power out of it when I went for more power.Hybrid MK pro is coming. Same top sheet and harder (purple) sponge iirc
did you ever end up giving this a try NL? curious to hear your thoughts if so. I ended up trying it briefly.This I will definitely give a shot. Maybe my current issues with MK are sponge hardness related but I struggled to get more power out of it when I went for more power
Unfortunately i have made the exact experience that you allude to. I always had the fastarc G-1 as my "go-to" rubber that i felt home with. When i then switched back to the G-1 after venturing into a few more hybrid and harder rubbers (MK hybrid > MK hybrid pro > Pk50 > Stiga DNA Hybrid M > Stiga DNA Hybrid H) i just could not get the blade angle right anymore and had trouble precisely differentiating between looping underspin (which always works), to looping blocked balls vs counter-looping. This was a very frustrating experience, because i thought the G-1 would always be the safe bet to go back to, but somehow it is not anymore.But my feeling could have changed for sure, I have been using 53+ degree sponge for a bit now and maybe G1 will not work for me either. A part of me has doubts, especially because I think the G1 plays more dynamically but I will wait until I have tested both again (which may never happen) before saying anything more on the subject.
I really don't wanna go @brokenball on these tests, but...So you do compare MK in 2.0 to G-1 in max ?
less grip is debatable. MK has a more modern topsheet which is highly grippy but at the very same time pretty suspectible to great a moist film on it which will degrade spin generation. This is similar like the Ando C48 which also has such a topsheet that will fail you on certain conditions / high humidity.
Perhaps we have different definitions for catapult. What is your definition and how can you measure both (without human influence)?
Update:
this is the list i was refering to:
To quote a few measurements:
They measure the grip by the force the rubber is able to "drag" with the rubbers topsheet
the catapult is measured by dropping the ball from a fixed height onto the rubber, so it is passive catapult (like in the short game)
Hardness is measured in Shore A taking into account topsheet + sponge
G-1 (1.8mm) - Grip 1.80 kg - Catapult 22cm - Hardness 32,5°
G-1 (2.3mm/Max) - Grip 1.65 kg - Catapult 23.5cm - Hardness 30.5°
Tibhar Hybrid MK (2.0mm) - Grip 1.75 kg - Catapult 22.5cm - Hardness 30,5°
Tibhar MX-D (2.0mm) - Grip 1.72 kg - Catapult 27.5cm - Hardness 29°
Tibhar MX-S (1.9mm) - Grip 1.60 kg - Catapult 27.5cm - Hardness 31,5°
Andro C48 (2.0mm) - Grip 1.77 kg - Catapult 25cm - Hardness 29,5°
Tenergy 05 (1.9mm) - Grip 0.9 kg - Catapult 30cm - Hardness 33°
Rakza 7 - (2.0mm) - Grip 0.87 kg - Catapult 27.5cm - Hardness 32.5°
We do see that there are some things that you would not expect (like the 1.8 G-1 feeling harder than the G-1 max, on the other side the thicker sponge could soften it)
It is true that it does not reflect "gameplay", since we are having a weight with the touching surface being metal, but at least it is comparable. What should they do ? Use a ball whose properties may change over time ? There are a good amount of difference between different brands of balls already, so trying to measure it with a "real" ball is more difficult and more error prone. Of course due to the difference between metal and plastic we can not transfer the results one to one to gameplay, but with metal being more smooth than a plastic ball we can see a kind of "worst case" scenario of the grip. I would guess that a tabletennis ball of the same mass/weight like the metal cube with the same surface touching the rubber would give even "stronger" grip values/measurements. In the summary list there are a few examples of rubbers that seem to grip metal not that well, even though we know that they grip the ball very well.I really don't wanna go @brokenball on these tests, but...
Just a few things to note: they use a 500g??? metal cube for the grip tests. That is not a plastic ball mostly because it is not plastic and not a ball. I have seen rubbers made for plastic ball act like an ice skate ring with the old caoutchouc ball. How each rubber acts with metal??? I don't know but not a good test if we play with plastic balls and not metal cubes.
I would give them the benefit of the doubt, since they do not only do one or two bounce tests. In your description you make it sound like they fixate the rubber with paper clips, which is not correct. The rubber is placed on a surface with a wooden frame on top, which then is fixated with those clips. This means the ought to be a somehow even pressure on border of the rubber. Yes, there can be air bubbles beneath the rubber, but if they do it the same way for each rubber and use several measurements and not only one, then it should be comparable enough.Their bounce test is conducted by dropping the ball from 50cm which is fine, but the rubber is held down with paper clips and the rubbers are not glued. I would be very cautious even if I glued to rubbers to pass judgment, but with paper clips... come on... The level of air pocket between the contraption and the rubber is random hence the bounce test might be flawed.
Yes, that can definitely be true. On the other hand we should think about if that would really be the issue here and how much a 500g weight would sink in on a 55° sponge vs a 40° sponge. It might very well be that 500g is enough to indent the topsheet to the maximum already for hard sponges, which would make the test more comparable.Softer rubbers should have more grip on this test since the 500g cube will compress the rubber more and have more of a ledge (lip?) that the cube needs to jump over. They measure the grip when the cube jumps so... Again use a plastic ball or something plastic with rounded corners.
Nobody disputes that and that is why they offer the reading of the sponge thickness and the topsheet thickness, so you can compare these. If one can make out the probable changes in measurements by the measured sponge thickness differences is very debatable, but you can at least try to compare rubbers that have similar sponge and topsheet thicknesses.From the same hardness the thicker sponge will be softer. @brokenball has been yapping about this for ages, it's boring by now but true.
I agree, but as long as we dont have anything like that it is just wishful thinking.The hardness test I don't like but I hate every manufacturer's in this regard. They absolutely should make a tip that is the same as a table tennis ball and then test. Using a pointed tip is nonrepresentative for table tennis.