which one should i buy?

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well thanks for replying guys but my coach said to buy 2 srivers and a non carbon blade. i was like :eek: lol :D well... thanks anyway :D

If your coach tells you to buy the all wood, maybe you can consider stiga clipper. I've been using it for quite some time and i can say It is a quite good blade.

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well thanks for replying guys but my coach said to buy 2 srivers and a non carbon blade. i was like :eek: lol :D well... thanks anyway :D

Your coach is giving you good advice. That is better for developing good strokes and good habits than any of the setups you were choosing from.

Butterfly Primorac Off-
Stiga Allround Evolution
Stiga Tube Allround

These are really good blades for the same reason.

Butterfly Korbel
Stiga Clipper

These are faster but excellent blades. However, you should listen to your coach and ask him what blade is right for you.
 
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well thanks for replying guys but my coach said to buy 2 srivers and a non carbon blade. i was like :eek: lol :D well... thanks anyway :D

I am going to quote myself from a different thread. :) It provides some information on why an all wood blade may be a good choice.

Now I will give my last piece of information, that I give, over and over and nobody fully listens to. I will see if I can say it a little differently. But I do get why nobody wants to listen to it. :) Fast blades are fun. I love the way they feel. It took me a while to get this. :)

Players who have good technique and are above 2100 level (USATT rating), which is about when a players fundamentals begin to become REALLY solid, can use a blade that has carbon in it without it slowing the development of their technique. That level is about where a player starts looking fundamentally sound, and, regardless of who they play, their technique stays decent. So, even when they get beaten up badly on the court, it is not because their technique fell apart and became sloppy. It is simply because they other player gave them stuff they could not handle.

For someone who just likes to play and does not really care about improving technique, this information is a little beside the point. If you are a person who just likes to play, plays mostly matches, does not do much training and does not work on improving technique, then just using what ever you want is fine. You will get better. But, there are certain aspects of technique that the pros employ that those players will not learn. Which is fine. Ultimately I play Table Tennis because it is SOOOOOOOO fun. But for me, the most fun I get from Table Tennis is from working on and improving the more subtle more detailed aspects of technique, like how you contact the ball, how you get the rubber to grab the ball, how you hold the ball on the racket longer to get more spin.

Last week I was hitting with my sister and she said: "I think I get what you mean by dwell time now. Because I am watching when you are hitting the ball and it is staying in contact with your rubber for a really long time." I like learning how you do things like that.

So, for a player who is not 2100 yet, using a carbon blade and using a blade that is faster than Off- can slow down the process of learning certain subtle stuff about how you contact the ball, how you hold the ball on the rubber, how you let the ball sink into the topsheet and how you use the forearm snap and the wrist in producing spin, the timing of all those things. Because a carbon blade makes it harder to feel the ball on the topsheet and sponge, and a faster blade makes it harder to hold the ball on the there, for most players who are not at this level, using a blade like a:

Butterfly Primorac Off-

or a

Stiga Tube Allround

(both blades are all wood and both blades are Off- rated and about the same speed), will help you develop an aspect of touch that most players at that level do not know you need. You will not have to try to learn this. It will happen naturally with a blade that speed that is all wood and has good ball feel. It will also help you develop the timing of the weight transfer for more power in your stroke. With an Off rated blade, a player who does not already have that technique and timing does not have to learn it, because the blade does the work. But, when your body has that touch and knows those techniques, when you get to a level around 2100 and switch to the type of blade mentioned in this thread, your technique will be ready for the equipment and the equipment will help you go to the next level.

Until your technique is fully solid, Off- all wood blades are very worth using.

A blade I would add to my list is the one I am using:

Stiga Allround Evolution

Another is:

Stiga Allround NCT.

All those blades are really good blades for feeling the timing of when to accelerate the stroke so you get more spin, how to hold the blade face so the angle of the blade does not change while you spin the ball and how to catch different spots on the ball when you loop like the top or the side to get different angles of top and side spin and how, when someone is really spinning heavily at you, you start feeling how you need to spin over the top of the ball.
 
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Blades that have only Arylate or Zylon, such as the Innerforce AL or Innerforce ZLF should be ok, I think?
 
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I have a TBS+2xT05.
I play just as well with H2 Neo or H3 Neo on a Samsonov Alpha and it is a lot cheaper.
As for the blade. I have about 12. An OFF- or ALL is probably a good choice until you and your competition get to be very good.

The attributes you want are really functions of your ability. Blades and rubbers don't have control. Some are more forgiving than others but then there is usually a performance trade off. The trick is to find the right balance for you NOW. In a year your skill will improve and a different set of rubbers and possible blades will be best for you.
 
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Blades that have only Arylate or Zylon, such as the Innerforce AL or Innerforce ZLF should be ok, I think?

I think this is basically accurate. I have not played with a blade that had Arylate and no carbon but it makes sense, and I have played with the Timo Boll ZLF and the Innerforce ZLF and would agree that you can feel the ball about as good as if it was only wood. But, those are pretty fast blades and it might be good to use a blade a little less fast for many. So, in a sense, yes, but it depends.
 
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hi guys,

i came to this forum last year to help my transition from arylate-carbon blade to something of an all wood blade (Clipper CR version). carl and azlan did me favour by explaining the possibilities with using this side of the game given i was coming from TBS and TB ALC (fibrous material or hybrid if you like). satisfied, guess i made an informed decision to change. it is this change that transforms your game to better heights. as carl put it, for someone who doesn't really care about improving their methods or techniques then they don't matter much. i care and i say if you are a developing player or reluctant to admit you're one of those then there comes a point you will be forced to acknowledge the fact that while having a cool blade (TB, ZJK, HK and whatnot) does guarantee your realisation of dream blade, but you cannot hide the fact that automatic proper techniques cannot easily be acquired -- without having to control your weapon to the best of your abilities.

power of your swing, control or uncontrolled (high level) must be your sole decision not the blade that does the talking for you.

with that, any clipper version or any off minus blade would be suitable for new, developing or advanced racketeers.
 
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I am going to quote myself one more time because this is useful information:

By the way, just for information purposes. I got that information about all wood blades Off- speed from two different pros who both said the same thing. They both told it to me completely separately from each other. I was asking them each some information about good setups for a friend who, at the time was looking to get himself something that would be the best setup for his improvement. Both players were on national teams in Europe when they were juniors and both players had the same basic information. That an all wood blade that is Off- is best for a player below a certain level and that, soft rubbers so that the player can learn mechanical spin should go with it. At least if you are trying to learn to be an offensive player with both sides smooth.

In deciding to act on their advice for myself even though they were not telling me I should change equipment, my level has increased a lot. Unfortunately my friend got a fast carbon blade with Hard rubber. :)

Part of the idea with why you need it until you are really solid, until the touch and technique is ingrained all the way into your muscle memory, so that you do the right technique every time, and you are tracking the ball and moving to it well enough to take the same stroke pretty much every time, then the carbon and not feeling the ball will keep you from feeling when subtle things like the contact, how far the ball sinks in, the angle of the bat, when to use the wrist, how much. And with the wood blade you will feel when you do not do it just so, and with the carbon blade you can get away with not doing it just so, so that the stroke and touch will seem okay. But it will keep you from fully developing that kind of loop that a higher level player just has because of how good their technique is.

It is all about muscle memory.
 
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hi guys,

i came to this forum last year to help my transition from arylate-carbon blade to something of an all wood blade (Clipper CR version). carl and azlan did me favour by explaining the possibilities with using this side of the game given i was coming from TBS and TB ALC (fibrous material or hybrid if you like). satisfied, guess i made an informed decision to change. it is this change that transforms your game to better heights. as carl put it, for someone who doesn't really care about improving their methods or techniques then they don't matter much. i care and i say if you are a developing player or reluctant to admit you're one of those then there comes a point you will be forced to acknowledge the fact that while having a cool blade (TB, ZJK, HK and whatnot) does guarantee your realisation of dream blade, but you cannot hide the fact that automatic proper techniques cannot easily be acquired -- without having to control your weapon to the best of your abilities.

power of your swing, control or uncontrolled (high level) must be your sole decision not the blade that does the talking for you.

with that, any clipper version or any off minus blade would be suitable for new, developing or advanced racketeers.

Great info.

I was using a Clipper. I went one small notch slower, even. The blade I am using has the same exact wood as the Clipper but it is 5 plies instead of 7 and it is just a little slower. And since I changed to this blade I have improved even more as a result of that. I have more power from my strokes because the blade does, even a tiny bit less so it forces me to have to be even more precise. :)

Clipper is quite affordable and a great blade at around $50.00-$60.00 depending on whether you get CR or regular.

The blade I am using now, Stiga Alllround Evolution is even more affordable at under $40.00.

For Butterfly fans, the Butterfly Primorac Off- blade is one of the best for these purposes. The blade I am using is very similar to that blade. They are about the same weight, speed, etc. The wood in both are very similar as well. Both Limba and Ayous. The plies are slightly different though:

Stiga Allround Evolution: Limba-Ayous-Ayous-Ayous-Limba

Butterfly Primorac Off-: Limba-Limba-Ayous-Limba-Limba

By the way, for comparison here are the plies for the Clipper: Limba-Ayous-Ayous-Ayous-Ayous-Ayous-Limba
 
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but carl since we use an all-wood, we need to have a great physical and great movement, aren't we ? the curse of being an all-rounder .. hahaha

Wang Liqin uses a Clipper. I think Chen Chi does as well. I am not sure those guys are Allrounders. :)
 
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