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Butterfly Viscaria has a unique feel but if you go for h3 on the fh, pick the commercial version because it's faster than provincial.
well thanks for replying guys but my coach said to buy 2 srivers and a non carbon blade. i was like lol well... thanks anyway
well thanks for replying guys but my coach said to buy 2 srivers and a non carbon blade. i was like lol well... thanks anyway
well thanks for replying guys but my coach said to buy 2 srivers and a non carbon blade. i was like lol well... thanks anyway
Now I will give my last piece of information, that I give, over and over and nobody fully listens to. I will see if I can say it a little differently. But I do get why nobody wants to listen to it. Fast blades are fun. I love the way they feel. It took me a while to get this.
Players who have good technique and are above 2100 level (USATT rating), which is about when a players fundamentals begin to become REALLY solid, can use a blade that has carbon in it without it slowing the development of their technique. That level is about where a player starts looking fundamentally sound, and, regardless of who they play, their technique stays decent. So, even when they get beaten up badly on the court, it is not because their technique fell apart and became sloppy. It is simply because they other player gave them stuff they could not handle.
For someone who just likes to play and does not really care about improving technique, this information is a little beside the point. If you are a person who just likes to play, plays mostly matches, does not do much training and does not work on improving technique, then just using what ever you want is fine. You will get better. But, there are certain aspects of technique that the pros employ that those players will not learn. Which is fine. Ultimately I play Table Tennis because it is SOOOOOOOO fun. But for me, the most fun I get from Table Tennis is from working on and improving the more subtle more detailed aspects of technique, like how you contact the ball, how you get the rubber to grab the ball, how you hold the ball on the racket longer to get more spin.
Last week I was hitting with my sister and she said: "I think I get what you mean by dwell time now. Because I am watching when you are hitting the ball and it is staying in contact with your rubber for a really long time." I like learning how you do things like that.
So, for a player who is not 2100 yet, using a carbon blade and using a blade that is faster than Off- can slow down the process of learning certain subtle stuff about how you contact the ball, how you hold the ball on the rubber, how you let the ball sink into the topsheet and how you use the forearm snap and the wrist in producing spin, the timing of all those things. Because a carbon blade makes it harder to feel the ball on the topsheet and sponge, and a faster blade makes it harder to hold the ball on the there, for most players who are not at this level, using a blade like a:
Butterfly Primorac Off-
or a
Stiga Tube Allround
(both blades are all wood and both blades are Off- rated and about the same speed), will help you develop an aspect of touch that most players at that level do not know you need. You will not have to try to learn this. It will happen naturally with a blade that speed that is all wood and has good ball feel. It will also help you develop the timing of the weight transfer for more power in your stroke. With an Off rated blade, a player who does not already have that technique and timing does not have to learn it, because the blade does the work. But, when your body has that touch and knows those techniques, when you get to a level around 2100 and switch to the type of blade mentioned in this thread, your technique will be ready for the equipment and the equipment will help you go to the next level.
Until your technique is fully solid, Off- all wood blades are very worth using.
Blades that have only Arylate or Zylon, such as the Innerforce AL or Innerforce ZLF should be ok, I think?
By the way, just for information purposes. I got that information about all wood blades Off- speed from two different pros who both said the same thing. They both told it to me completely separately from each other. I was asking them each some information about good setups for a friend who, at the time was looking to get himself something that would be the best setup for his improvement. Both players were on national teams in Europe when they were juniors and both players had the same basic information. That an all wood blade that is Off- is best for a player below a certain level and that, soft rubbers so that the player can learn mechanical spin should go with it. At least if you are trying to learn to be an offensive player with both sides smooth.
In deciding to act on their advice for myself even though they were not telling me I should change equipment, my level has increased a lot. Unfortunately my friend got a fast carbon blade with Hard rubber.
Part of the idea with why you need it until you are really solid, until the touch and technique is ingrained all the way into your muscle memory, so that you do the right technique every time, and you are tracking the ball and moving to it well enough to take the same stroke pretty much every time, then the carbon and not feeling the ball will keep you from feeling when subtle things like the contact, how far the ball sinks in, the angle of the bat, when to use the wrist, how much. And with the wood blade you will feel when you do not do it just so, and with the carbon blade you can get away with not doing it just so, so that the stroke and touch will seem okay. But it will keep you from fully developing that kind of loop that a higher level player just has because of how good their technique is.
It is all about muscle memory.
hi guys,
i came to this forum last year to help my transition from arylate-carbon blade to something of an all wood blade (Clipper CR version). carl and azlan did me favour by explaining the possibilities with using this side of the game given i was coming from TBS and TB ALC (fibrous material or hybrid if you like). satisfied, guess i made an informed decision to change. it is this change that transforms your game to better heights. as carl put it, for someone who doesn't really care about improving their methods or techniques then they don't matter much. i care and i say if you are a developing player or reluctant to admit you're one of those then there comes a point you will be forced to acknowledge the fact that while having a cool blade (TB, ZJK, HK and whatnot) does guarantee your realisation of dream blade, but you cannot hide the fact that automatic proper techniques cannot easily be acquired -- without having to control your weapon to the best of your abilities.
power of your swing, control or uncontrolled (high level) must be your sole decision not the blade that does the talking for you.
with that, any clipper version or any off minus blade would be suitable for new, developing or advanced racketeers.
but carl since we use an all-wood, we need to have a great physical and great movement, aren't we ? the curse of being an all-rounder .. hahaha