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Boosting H3 NEO National
- Thread starter MaLongSenpai
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And for back to talk about this topic ...
I would use blue , I feel is better than orange ... but really can't ... club give me somes money's for buy rubber ... but I have limits of course ...
Then I can't use blue because more often broke
Then I use orange....
My friend Chinese say me
Maybe try rubber lidu ... he says with booster is good too ...
Chinese play in my team use kailin ( but he not use Chinese rubber )
I would use blue , I feel is better than orange ... but really can't ... club give me somes money's for buy rubber ... but I have limits of course ...
Then I can't use blue because more often broke
Then I use orange....
My friend Chinese say me
Maybe try rubber lidu ... he says with booster is good too ...
Chinese play in my team use kailin ( but he not use Chinese rubber )
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ok if u want .... but all chinese strong i know.... somes play just in france in level 3 (we play same team ) ... all say same ... probleme with h3blue is more easy to broke.....
yesterday i talk yet with 1 chinese ( level province in china ) play with blue sponge, and he says me **** my last is dead after only 3 days :/
for orange i need play 1 month a lot for bubble ...
but have u 1 video for i see how u play ???
And for finish of course broke rubber depends of your level u think player in national team if training 2 hours rubber will be used like if me play or if u play ? Of course not ...
me too i know somes player play with h3 blue in france they play département level of course they don't broke h3 blue ... then can play 1 years he will be safe
i let u see my level ( im not very strong ... :/ )
Nice vids, Nicolas, but this is not a peeing contest, and I'm too old for this kind of childish nonsense. You might be better than me or not. Unfortunately i don't have any footage of myself playing competetively (yet), all i got is a short vid of me and my friend practicing with the amicus robot, but you've probably seen them already anyway, since you're also on my facebook.
But anyhow there's no need for any whatsoever kind of compensations.
But maybe we could play this out one day though.
[Emoji6]
Now back to topic: maybe it's been a language barrier, but all i was trying to say is:
that DIFFERENT people will make DIFFERENT experiences,
so in your case i wouldn't run around and pretend i was the keeper of all knowledge.
I stopped doing that when i turned 18 or 19. You seem to be older, so maybe i was expecting a little more mature reaction.
But maybe it's all language barrier and i've just misunderstood the tone of your posts.
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friends use foam cleaners, but i got “Reach rubber wash for tacky rubbers“ but i've also used Revolution 3
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What is that Chen Chen techniques to boost?
I want to avoid bubbles
Sent from my 2014819 using Tapatalk
I want to avoid bubbles
Sent from my 2014819 using Tapatalk
Chen Chen said:
Post #99 from this thread:
https://www.tabletennisdaily.co.uk/...national-equipment-(rubbers-and-blades)/page5
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Hey Yuri!
SO basically, I want to provide a very quick update regarding this bubbling problem; now, I can say with certainty that you need to be careful with FLB and how you apply it (goes without saying for booster but this stuff is basically liquid Uranium with respect to rubber topsheets) however! After letting the rubbers dry under with wind (indoor fan) the bubbling is now barely noticeable! I can assume that the bubbling will reduce further as the sponge continues to expand and return to it's original shape; all you need to do when boosting is be careful and apply it using singular strokes from the bottom of the rubber to the top of the rubber, almost like mowing a lawn! This gives the best consistency in terms of the booster but don't get me wrong, Chen Chen's technique is the one to use!
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I think buble not depends how u boost... :/
I really know somes Chinese ( of course they know how boost) play in Europe want use blue ... but say can't because more expensive because broke all 3 days 4 days
And after they are in Europe they have limited rubber
I really know somes Chinese ( of course they know how boost) play in Europe want use blue ... but say can't because more expensive because broke all 3 days 4 days
And after they are in Europe they have limited rubber
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Well, this bubbling was almost certainly a result of my 'technique' as Suga D accurately put it; FLB is a little different to other boosters but it seems insane to say that all H3 NEO Blue Sponge dies after like 2 weeks max. I will be boosting my National heavily but I don't think it will die in two weeks of play. Although, bubbling is something that effects all boosted rubber Chinese or not and 9/10 they are a result of carelessness when boosting; but I do believe you mate!
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But the best for Chinese rubber is haifu , lidu , kailin , or seamoon for boost rubber
Falco is not very good with Chinese rubber ..
Falco is not very good with Chinese rubber ..
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I tend to disagree actually, I think it works incredibly well on Chinese rubbers and especially on National Sponge which is a bit softer than the provincial/commercial rubbers so it benefits from a booster with a high viscosity as opposed to Seamoon or Haifu, which have low viscosity. It's an important consideration to make when boosting your rubber and you need to know the best type of boost for your specific grade of rubber; if I was using a 41 degree rubber then it would be sensible to boost it with something like Haifu but given that I play 40 degree and my play style benefits from a hard, boosted sponge then Falco Long Term booster is the best choice FOR ME (I would have loved some National haifu but that isn't going to happen for a while I don't think). A lot of people have had good results with FLB on Chinese rubbers and I stand by that booster as an excellent alternative to Chinese boosters.
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Okay. I think I am going to talk about the reason for bubbles and what is actually happening. Hopefully this helps you guys understand why there are a couple of factors that can cause bubbling. And how a higher level player may get more bubbling than a lower level player. And also how, boosting can effect bubbling.
So, when they make a sheet of rubber like, say, H3, MXP or any other rubber, the topsheet has to be glued onto the sponge. That is how the topsheet is attached to the sponge. The glue they use to attach the topsheet to the sponge is important. It is similar to the glues we use to attach the sponge to the racket. The factory may use VOC glues to attach the topsheet to the sponge, but it is still a similar kind of glue with a similar kind of bonding. Which also means similar solvents will work on this glue if you wanted to separate the topsheet from the sponge.
Now before we go into boosters, we can talk about bubbles without the need of talking about boosters. One of two things can happen when you get a bubble. If you hit the ball so hard that you break a pimple, or a couple of pimples, you will get a bubble. If you hit the ball so hard that you separate a pimple from the sponge, you will also get a bubble.
A high level player like panany could get bubbles just from how hard he swing on his opening loop. Look at how much spin and arc he gets on some of those opening loops. He is a decently high level player who plays with a lot of impact. If you add the booster into the equation, I imagine that it is quite easy for him to get bubbles or maybe quite hard for him to not get bubbles.
Also, since he is playing at quite a high level, his experience with bubbles may be different than other players who do not get as much force into their impact. So, some of the discussion may be like people talking about two different things and thinking they are talking about the same thing.
Now, lets add details about these boosters. The oils in the boosters all would function well as solvents for the glues we use to glue our rubber to our blade. If you ever felt you were having trouble getting your rubber off of your blade you could put some of that booster (whichever kind) or even mineral oil, onto the area of the sponge that was sticking and, if you waited a few minutes for the oil to sink in, it would soften the glue and help undo the bond.
If you wanted to separate the topsheet from a sponge, applying the booster to the area where the pimples attach to the sponge, and were patient, you would be able to remove the topsheet from the sponge by softening the bonds that attach each separate pimple to the sponge.
When you boost you add the booster oil to the sponge side. But, like a household sponge, the sponge on your rubber will absorb certain things. If you took a household sponge and put it on top of a small spill of water, it would absorb the water. The porous nature of a sponge is designed to do that. If you used the sponge on some oil, it would take longer, but it would absorb it too. With water or oil, that household sponge would expand. With the sponge on your rubber, water or oil will cause it to expand too. Only, water would not give you good playing characteristics because the water would fill the bubbles and it would also damage the wood. But you can test it on an old piece of rubber. If you spread water on the sponge, it will sink in and the sponge will expand. Then when the water evaporated, the sponge would return to its original size.
So, you put the booster on the sponge, and the oil sinks into the sponge and that causes the sponge to expand. Now some booster will get to the side of the sponge where the pimples are. So the glue bond between the pimple and sponge will be a little weaker for a time. If as the oil evaporates, the bond strengthens enough, you may not get bubbles. If you don't use quite as much booster, you may not get as much bubbles. If there is a little glue on the sponge to absorb some of the booster and make the booster take a little longer to get to the sponge, it may make it less likely for you to get bubbles. But if you use a lot of booster and you have good technique and brush hard with deep impact, that will make it much more likely that you separate pimples from sponge and end up with bubbles. Whereas, if you hit hard, but your contact is less tangential and more direct, that will not put as much stress on the bond between the pimples and the sponge.
So, lower level technique will be less likely to cause bubbles than the technique of a higher level player.
However, as far as I am concerned, a process that takes a whole week, like boosting, before you can put your rubber onto your racket is too fussy for me. So I stopped using H3 years ago and use whatever tensor or tenergy like rubber is on my racket at the moment.
Anyway, I hope this information helps you guys understand why a guy like panany has such a different experience with Blue Sponge Bubbling than most of the forum members.
Now I am going to go back and watch few more of panany's opening loops because they are a thing of beauty.
Hopefully this helps you guys understand why there are a couple of factors that can cause bubbling. And how a higher level player may get more bubbling than a lower level player. And also how, boosting can effect bubbling. So, when they make a sheet of rubber like, say, H3, MXP or any other rubber, the topsheet has to be glued onto the sponge. That is how the topsheet is attached to the sponge. The glue they use to attach the topsheet to the sponge is important. It is similar to the glues we use to attach the sponge to the racket. The factory may use VOC glues to attach the topsheet to the sponge, but it is still a similar kind of glue with a similar kind of bonding. Which also means similar solvents will work on this glue if you wanted to separate the topsheet from the sponge.
Now before we go into boosters, we can talk about bubbles without the need of talking about boosters. One of two things can happen when you get a bubble. If you hit the ball so hard that you break a pimple, or a couple of pimples, you will get a bubble. If you hit the ball so hard that you separate a pimple from the sponge, you will also get a bubble.
A high level player like panany could get bubbles just from how hard he swing on his opening loop. Look at how much spin and arc he gets on some of those opening loops. He is a decently high level player who plays with a lot of impact. If you add the booster into the equation, I imagine that it is quite easy for him to get bubbles or maybe quite hard for him to not get bubbles.
Also, since he is playing at quite a high level, his experience with bubbles may be different than other players who do not get as much force into their impact. So, some of the discussion may be like people talking about two different things and thinking they are talking about the same thing.
Now, lets add details about these boosters. The oils in the boosters all would function well as solvents for the glues we use to glue our rubber to our blade. If you ever felt you were having trouble getting your rubber off of your blade you could put some of that booster (whichever kind) or even mineral oil, onto the area of the sponge that was sticking and, if you waited a few minutes for the oil to sink in, it would soften the glue and help undo the bond.
If you wanted to separate the topsheet from a sponge, applying the booster to the area where the pimples attach to the sponge, and were patient, you would be able to remove the topsheet from the sponge by softening the bonds that attach each separate pimple to the sponge.
When you boost you add the booster oil to the sponge side. But, like a household sponge, the sponge on your rubber will absorb certain things. If you took a household sponge and put it on top of a small spill of water, it would absorb the water. The porous nature of a sponge is designed to do that. If you used the sponge on some oil, it would take longer, but it would absorb it too. With water or oil, that household sponge would expand. With the sponge on your rubber, water or oil will cause it to expand too. Only, water would not give you good playing characteristics because the water would fill the bubbles and it would also damage the wood. But you can test it on an old piece of rubber. If you spread water on the sponge, it will sink in and the sponge will expand. Then when the water evaporated, the sponge would return to its original size.
So, you put the booster on the sponge, and the oil sinks into the sponge and that causes the sponge to expand. Now some booster will get to the side of the sponge where the pimples are. So the glue bond between the pimple and sponge will be a little weaker for a time. If as the oil evaporates, the bond strengthens enough, you may not get bubbles. If you don't use quite as much booster, you may not get as much bubbles. If there is a little glue on the sponge to absorb some of the booster and make the booster take a little longer to get to the sponge, it may make it less likely for you to get bubbles. But if you use a lot of booster and you have good technique and brush hard with deep impact, that will make it much more likely that you separate pimples from sponge and end up with bubbles. Whereas, if you hit hard, but your contact is less tangential and more direct, that will not put as much stress on the bond between the pimples and the sponge.
So, lower level technique will be less likely to cause bubbles than the technique of a higher level player.
However, as far as I am concerned, a process that takes a whole week, like boosting, before you can put your rubber onto your racket is too fussy for me. So I stopped using H3 years ago and use whatever tensor or tenergy like rubber is on my racket at the moment.
Anyway, I hope this information helps you guys understand why a guy like panany has such a different experience with Blue Sponge Bubbling than most of the forum members.
Now I am going to go back and watch few more of panany's opening loops because they are a thing of beauty.
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i have 1 other video i use yet h3 neo orange with booster ... if people is want see how i use this rubber i can post there
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Go ahead. Post it. Not many are comfortable posting such a close match where they are up in the final game and end up not winning. Anyone who knows TT can see you play pretty decently though.
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i dont have other video ... i get always video if friend do .. if not i dont have ^^
2 videos of me 2 loose haha ...
First video im stupid loose because i think i loose alone ... ^^
but this match this guy is really mor strong than me... 1 year ago i loose him 3 2 i have possibility win... but this day i cant win haha he plays better
i boost only forehand not backhand
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I'm not sure if you have mentioned this before but what do you currently play with, in terms of your blade and rubbers etc? I'm quite curious!
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backhand this year i use bryce speed fx ... maybe i will ask my club for try rozenna
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Okay. I think I am going to talk about the reason for bubbles and what is actually happening.
So, when they make a sheet of rubber like, say, H3, MXP or any other rubber, the topsheet has to be glued onto the sponge. That is how the topsheet is attached to the sponge. The glue they use to attach the topsheet to the sponge is important. It is similar to the glues we use to attach the sponge to the racket. The factory may use VOC glues to attach the topsheet to the sponge, but it is still a similar kind of glue with a similar kind of bonding. Which also means similar solvents will work on this glue if you wanted to separate the topsheet from the sponge.
Now before we go into boosters, we can talk about bubbles without the need of talking about boosters. One of two things can happen when you get a bubble. If you hit the ball so hard that you break a pimple, or a couple of pimples, you will get a bubble. If you hit the ball so hard that you separate a pimple from the sponge, you will also get a bubble.
A high level player like panany could get bubbles just from how hard he swing on his opening loop. Look at how much spin and arc he gets on some of those opening loops. He is a decently high level player who plays with a lot of impact. If you add the booster into the equation, I imagine that it is quite easy for him to get bubbles or maybe quite hard for him to not get bubbles.
Also, since he is playing at quite a high level, his experience with bubbles may be different than other players who do not get as much force into their impact. So, some of the discussion may be like people talking about two different things and thinking they are talking about the same thing.
Now, lets add details about these boosters. The oils in the boosters all would function well as solvents for the glues we use to glue our rubber to our blade. If you ever felt you were having trouble getting your rubber off of your blade you could put some of that booster (whichever kind) or even mineral oil, onto the area of the sponge that was sticking and, if you waited a few minutes for the oil to sink in, it would soften the glue and help undo the bond.
If you wanted to separate the topsheet from a sponge, applying the booster to the area where the pimples attach to the sponge, and were patient, you would be able to remove the topsheet from the sponge by softening the bonds that attach each separate pimple to the sponge.
When you boost you add the booster oil to the sponge side. But, like a household sponge, the sponge on your rubber will absorb certain things. If you took a household sponge and put it on top of a small spill of water, it would absorb the water. The porous nature of a sponge is designed to do that. If you used the sponge on some oil, it would take longer, but it would absorb it too. With water or oil, that household sponge would expand. With the sponge on your rubber, water or oil will cause it to expand too. Only, water would not give you good playing characteristics because the water would fill the bubbles and it would also damage the wood. But you can test it on an old piece of rubber. If you spread water on the sponge, it will sink in and the sponge will expand. Then when the water evaporated, the sponge would return to its original size.
So, you put the booster on the sponge, and the oil sinks into the sponge and that causes the sponge to expand. Now some booster will get to the side of the sponge where the pimples are. So the glue bond between the pimple and sponge will be a little weaker for a time. If as the oil evaporates, the bond strengthens enough, you may not get bubbles. If you don't use quite as much booster, you may not get as much bubbles. If there is a little glue on the sponge to absorb some of the booster and make the booster take a little longer to get to the sponge, it may make it less likely for you to get bubbles. But if you use a lot of booster and you have good technique and brush hard with deep impact, that will make it much more likely that you separate pimples from sponge and end up with bubbles. Whereas, if you hit hard, but your contact is less tangential and more direct, that will not put as much stress on the bond between the pimples and the sponge.
So, lower level technique will be less likely to cause bubbles than the technique of a higher level player.
However, as far as I am concerned, a process that takes a whole week, like boosting, before you can put your rubber onto your racket is too fussy for me. So I stopped using H3 years ago and use whatever tensor or tenergy like rubber is on my racket at the moment.
Anyway, I hope this information helps you guys understand why a guy like panany has such a different experience with Blue Sponge Bubbling than most of the forum members.
Now I am going to go back and watch few more of panany's opening loops because they are a thing of beauty.
Despite boosting, I actually have a significant problem with it and I don't think it's conducive to the sport in any way shape or form and it saddens me that this isn't going to change, frankly ever.
I don't really know where it originates from and, aside from the properties of FLB, it's helpful that I can leave the rubber on the blade for a few months before having to go through this ridiculous process once again. I upgraded my glue to Nittaku FineZip in the week for the very purpose of gluing boosted rubbers to my long V without having to wait a week for them to completely flatten out.
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