Now testing: Battle Max, Rxton 3 Pink, Dynaryz ZGX, and Rhyzen ZGX

[BHSlap]

View attachment 28359

Decided to go ahead and boost a few of these rubbers, hoping for a big improvement

Do you remove old glue before boosting?

 

[TensorBackhand]

Do you remove old glue before boosting?

sometimes, but usually I do not. I haven't found it to have any impact really.

 

[lodro]

That makes sense. It's already bouncy, so I wouldn't really expect this type of sponge to react too much.

Did you notice any improvement at all?

NO ! 😁 But for the right person it is a good quality rubber and at this price {I can get it now for NZ16 postage and tax incl.) it is a bargain.

 

[turbozed]

Now you guys understand why WRM made like 5 different videos about Rxton 3 Pink/Blue lol

 

[TensorBackhand]

Now you guys understand why WRM made like 5 different videos about Rxton 3 Pink/Blue lol

I saw their reviews and thought they were probably exaggerating, which is very common with Japanese reviews. Japanese don't want to say negative things, so they often exaggerate things like food reviews or movie reviews or anything.

And they referred to Rxton 3 pink as "Chinese tension rubber", which I don't think is accurate. It is Chinese, tacky, hard rubber with a kind of pre-boosted kick.

 

[turbozed]

I saw their reviews and thought they were probably exaggerating, which is very common with Japanese reviews. Japanese don't want to say negative things, so they often exaggerate things like food reviews or movie reviews or anything.

And they referred to Rxton 3 pink as "Chinese tension rubber", which I don't think is accurate. It is Chinese, tacky, hard rubber with a kind of pre-boosted kick.

To be fair they called it "light tension" and said it was slow. And in subsequent videos they had other players say that it was Chinese style and slightly tacky.

I don't think they made half a dozen videos about a rubber just out of Japanese politeness. They only made one video about Rxton 1, for instance.

 

[TensorBackhand]

To be fair they called it "light tension" and said it was slow. And in subsequent videos they had other players say that it was Chinese style and slightly tacky.

I don't think they made half a dozen videos about a rubber just out of Japanese politeness. They only made one video about Rxton 1, for instance.

I'll go back and checkout their Rxton Pink reviews. I only saw 1 or 2, with a guest Chinese player doing a review. It just sounded exaggerated to me.

 

[mattlamperouge]

Have you tried boosting Rxton pink/blue or LAC?

Some people mentioned bubbling problems with Rxton Pink and LAC after boosting. So I'm scared to boost these 2 rubbers.

I have boosted R3 pink on BH, mine reacted decently to seamoon, directly to the sponge, it just make it a bit softer & adds a bit of bounce for ease of use on the BH. No bubbles yet (amateur use, about 4 months now, reboosted) Arthur china another player also no bubbles same time, of course just regular amateur use, 3/4 times a week + tournaments, not a lot of multiball training,etc. so keep that in mind.

Here you have a video glueing a Rxton 3 blue...Clearly boosted & it seems like a pretty good reaction...

 

[netdriver]

ppl recommend battle max pro on stiff hard blades... which fits the description of my yasaka G5 well. however, the attributes of the rubber are still mediocre unless you apply booster

maybe its better for hard stiff *carbon* blades but i dont have a carbon blade in my inventory

for playing without booster battle 2 prov orange/blue is miles better

anyways i replaced my battle max pro with reactor thunder and im a way happier player than before. 729 battle 2 lineup is overrated to me at this point.

 

[SlowPower]

is the blue one the same as pink or is it different?

 

[mattlamperouge]

is the blue one the same as pink or is it different?

In theory They are the same & in my experience they are,but some pink were Mark as h39° while Blue Is h40° & that stired some confussion.
Last catalogue advertise them as H40.

 

[TensorBackhand]

In theory They are the same & in my experience they are,but some pink were Mark as h39° while Blue Is h40° & that stired some confussion.
Last catalogue advertise them as H40.
View attachment 28442

I think next time I should get the blue one. I really wish I knew what 2T technology meant.

 

[TensorBackhand]

ppl recommend battle max pro on stiff hard blades... which fits the description of my yasaka G5 well. however, the attributes of the rubber are still mediocre unless you apply booster

maybe its better for hard stiff *carbon* blades but i dont have a carbon blade in my inventory

for playing without booster battle 2 prov orange/blue is miles better

anyways i replaced my battle max pro with reactor thunder and im a way happier player than before. 729 battle 2 lineup is overrated to me at this point.

Why do you think it's good on stiff blade? i was thinking the opposite. Right now, I have it on the Sanwei 75 inner, but I actually think it would be better on a softer limba blade, to give it more catch.

 

[turbozed]

In theory They are the same & in my experience they are,but some pink were Mark as h39° while Blue Is h40° & that stired some confussion.
Last catalogue advertise them as H40.
View attachment 28442

When I measured them with my durometer, they came out as the exact same hardness (51-52d Shore O).

I'm willing to bet that the only difference between them is the color process to make them either pink or blue.

They are a bit too hard for me on the backhand, but I'll try boosting one to see just how much the sponge softens up. I'll post the durometer readings here after.

 

[TensorBackhand]

When I measured them with my durometer, they came out as the exact same hardness (51-52d Shore O).

I'm willing to bet that the only difference between them is the color process to make them either pink or blue.

They are a bit too hard for me on the backhand, but I'll try boosting one to see just how much the sponge softens up. I'll post the durometer readings here after.

What's your durometer reading of LAC? 51-52d sounds fairly soft. When I test it, it comes out 57d, same as LAC. So either my sheet is harder, or I'm pushing a lot harder on my durometer.

 

[lodro]

When I measured them with my durometer, they came out as the exact same hardness (51-52d Shore O).

I'm willing to bet that the only difference between them is the color process to make them either pink or blue.

They are a bit too hard for me on the backhand, but I'll try boosting one to see just how much the sponge softens up. I'll post the durometer readings here after.

Even I, who like hard BH rubbers took to boosting my pinkey.
The sponge did swell up and the rubber curled but it did not make much difference to the feel of the rubber. Maybe it is because the colored top is a tough little number ????

 

[turbozed]

What's your durometer reading of LAC? 51-52d sounds fairly soft. When I test it, it comes out 57d, same as LAC. So either my sheet is harder, or I'm pushing a lot harder on my durometer.

My readings for LAC come out the same (51-52d). With my durometer, I can get every rubber to 57d+ if I press too hard. If I press slowly it'll slowly reach the first limit "plateau" which is what I take as the actual hardness.

If you then add even more force past the "plateau" the needle will shoot past 55d instantly. I assume this is the wrong technique. If I had to explain why, I'd say that it's because at some point using too much pressure will cause the flat area surrounding the needle to start deforming and flattening the rubber itself. So the needle is registering the hardness of the flattened rubber, which is going to be harder than it's resting state (like how a flattened pillow is harder than the same fluffed up pillow).

 

[TensorBackhand]

My readings for LAC come out the same (51-52d). With my durometer, I can get every rubber to 57d+ if I press too hard. If I press slowly it'll slowly reach the first limit "plateau" which is what I take as the actual hardness.

If you then add even more force past the "plateau" the needle will shoot past 55d instantly. I assume this is the wrong technique. If I had to explain why, I'd say that it's because at some point using too much pressure will cause the flat area surrounding the needle to start deforming and flattening the rubber itself. So the needle is registering the hardness of the flattened rubber, which is going to be harder than it's resting state (like how a flattened pillow is harder than the same fluffed up pillow).

My technique is different. Because i want to know the hardness relative to established esn rubbers.

So I take a esn rubber with a known hardness of 50d. I test the durometer to see how hard I need to push to hit this. Typically with 1 hand it takes about 80% strength, a firm hard push.

Then I use the same 1 handed strength to push down on rxton pink and lac. When i do this, it gives me 57d.

Using your technique, a known rubber like MXP 50d will measure lower than 50d. That throws me off too much.

 

[turbozed]

My technique is different. Because i want to know the hardness relative to established esn rubbers.

So I take a esn rubber with a known hardness of 50d. I test the durometer to see how hard I need to push to hit this. Typically with 1 hand it takes about 80% strength, a firm hard push.

Then I use the same 1 handed strength to push down on rxton pink and lac. When i do this, it gives me 57d.

Using your technique, a known rubber like MXP 50d will measure lower than 50d. That throws me off too much.

I'm using the technique that was included with the durometer as an instruction page. Using both hands with the durometer dial facing towards you, you hold the durometer kinda in the way you would make a heart symbol (index fingers on top of the durometer, thumbs on the bottom of the durometer).

I would assume that the manufacturer would know the best way to use the product it's selling, so I'm not going to overthink it, especially when the technique yields accurate measures for the ESN rubbers I've measured. I get 45d sponge for Nittaku C1 every time with the manufacturer method. Pressing as hard as I can with C1 I'll get over 55d.

 

[netdriver]

Why do you think it's good on stiff blade? i was thinking the opposite. Right now, I have it on the Sanwei 75 inner, but I actually think it would be better on a softer limba blade, to give it more catch.

the revspin reviews mention about the rubber playing better on stiff blades so i just use that as a reference when i brought the battle max pro

you can try putting it on a limba blade tho