The blade off Wang Manyu ??

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Have not tried T05 on the blade, but one can easily picture it as a good shakehand FH rubber. A different touch comparing to D05. It would probably have a clearer response while having lower dwell overall, more difficult to control in short game, and feeling more direct/livelier than D05 in continuous rallies.

(Edit on Apr 11: Tried T05 finally and confirmed the above assumption. Huge springiness and the ball shoots out like rocket. Dwell is marginally acceptable to me but pretty short. It is especially a liability in serves, since spin is decreased without compensation in speed. In fact, speed also decreased since I cannot get hold of the ball efficiently and lost confidence for no reason. The only advantage for me is really high speed kill shots. Overall the feeling of being unnecessarily cautious is just detrimental to my performance. One thing to take away is learning to angle so precisely just to not lose a point lol, did learn something after all...)

I mainly play old school players who likes to play tricky placements and backspin game, so in my case D05 has better control and versatility as a penholder. However, there were a few instances where D05 felt a little stubborn when I was reaching for the blade's highest gears far from the table. I had a feeling that activating the blade is easier than the rubber and I had to exert additional effort to hit through the sponge.

(Edit on Mar 17: Found out the problem and it was the full coverage edge tape, took it off and there was no problem again. Having that said, more springiness is definitely welcomed in that situation.)
(Edit again on Apr 11: T05 works better in mid to far distances but much poorer close to the table. Probably due to difference in trajectory. D05 has a high throw and therefore limits its peak performance range to mid distance, while flatter trajectory of T05 makes it shine at mid distance+ but does not have enough space for performance in close distance, not to mention short game.)

Some additional input, from what I learnt from the blade, it encourages and rewards always wrapping around the ball and add topspin to create a nice arc in both attack and defense, just like how Wang Manyu and many other Chinese players do. Otherwise either the return is weaker or the ball shoots long easily. The way I assess rubber suitability is how easy they achieve this style of stroke.

PS A sudden thought about Cybershape, where flat hits and semi-passive blocking works so well. Completely different worlds. Looks like Stiga did some hard work to come up with these designs.
 
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I have seen mostly butterfly rubber recommendations for the blade. Anyone tested it out with other less expensive rubbers like the Xiom Vega Pro or Xiom Vega X on the FH? I currently have a unboosted H3N on the forehand but I'm afraid it's too slow and I have to substitute it with a Tensor rubber again
 
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(Hope there are no rules in bombarding posts in such a short period of time) Me again with an interesting update on blade quality. While changing rubbers, I scrutinized the surface to remove remainders of glue, and discovered an imbalance in wood quality left/right sides. On the back side, while the wood composition on right hand side (1st image) of the veneer has fish scales, the case is different on the left hand side (2nd image). In other words, the RH side is ever so slightly harder/firmer/heavier and LH side has looser composition/a bit more flex. On top of that, while sanding down the shoulders, I discover the front side to be way more difficult than the back side. I suspect the outer layers of wood/carbon on front side is harder than the back by quite some degrees. The front side has more equal composition overall.

Since owning the blade I always found something off in play but could not tell what it was. No matter the rubber choice, the flow of movement always feel a bit unbalanced. Now I use front label side as backhand and voila, what a difference! I was investigating in the direction of rubbers' weight when it is actually the blade's inherent compositional imbalance. I am just somehow hyper-sensitive to these micro things that constitutes a good feeling in general...really happy to know about it in time ;)

20240316_024538.jpg
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PS It happened before that I had to reverse the sides, but it was about a tiny misalignment in the handle construction, just to share.
 
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(Hope there are no rules in bombarding posts in such a short period of time) Me again with an interesting update on blade quality. While changing rubbers, I scrutinized the surface to remove remainders of glue, and discovered an imbalance in wood quality left/right sides. In forehand, while the wood composition on right hand side (1st image) of the veneer is top tier, having "fish scales", the case is different on the left hand side (2nd image). In other words, the RH side is ever so slightly harder/firmer/heavier and LH side has looser composition/a bit more flex. On top of that, while sanding down the shoulders, I discover the front side to be way more difficult than the back side. I suspect the outer layers of wood/carbon on front side is harder than the back by quite some degrees. The backhand side has more equal composition overall.

Since owning the blade I always found something off in play but could not tell what it was. No matter the rubber choice, the flow of movement always feel a bit unbalanced. Now I use front label side as backhand and voila, what a difference! I was investigating in the direction of rubbers' weight when it is actually the blade's inherent compositional imbalance. I am just somehow hyper-sensitive to these micro things that constitutes a good feeling in general...really happy to know about it in time ;)

View attachment 28780View attachment 28781

PS It happened before that I had to reverse the sides, but it was about a tiny misalignment in the handle construction, just to share.
This is strange . is it quality control issue ?

having variation on same FH or BH side , is very unsettling.

Does this behaviour common to others as well?
 
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This is strange . is it quality control issue ?

having variation on same FH or BH side , is very unsettling.

Does this behaviour common to others as well?
For the veneer it's very, very common for the koto veneer to have variable degrees of fish scaling.

For the FH/BH side, there are blades with purposefully made different FH/BH sides (e.g. Koto/ALC/ayous on one side, Limba/ayous/ALC on the other). Those are made to intentionally give different characteristics to the two sides, for example more like Viscaria on the BH side and more like the W968 on the FH side. The general assessment of it is that it doesn't work, as the blade functions as a whole. As such, either the poster is super sensitive to small changes or its just placebo effect.
 
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For the veneer it's very, very common for the koto veneer to have variable degrees of fish scaling.

For the FH/BH side, there are blades with purposefully made different FH/BH sides (e.g. Koto/ALC/ayous on one side, Limba/ayous/ALC on the other). Those are made to intentionally give different characteristics to the two sides, for example more like Viscaria on the BH side and more like the W968 on the FH side. The general assessment of it is that it doesn't work, as the blade functions as a whole. As such, either the poster is super sensitive to small changes or its just placebo effect.
Yes you're right I am super sensitive and being it just for the sake of investigating everything. To me testing blades is analogous to trying out musical instruments. A joyful process no matter encountering a good or bad one.

And thanks for your info about koto veneer. From seeing my friends' Butterfly SZLCs either the whole veneer has fish scaling or it's totally devoid of it. The wood pattern are also much more neat and symmetrical. That's somehow the standard I expected in mind.
 
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This is strange . is it quality control issue ?

having variation on same FH or BH side , is very unsettling.

Does this behaviour common to others as well?
The variation is there but very minor, FH/BH feeling is like 90%-95% similar. I knocked and bounced a ball on every segment of it to listen closely, and discovered the harder/softer variaitons, between both sides and within the same side.
 
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Then it looks like that bad, i am sure playing character as mentioned by many other users in this thread is very good

Main thing they all mentioned were good grip while opening and control
 
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I am really impressed by your sensitivity to such details. I probably wouldn't have caught it at all. For me, something either works or it doesn't, and I don't focus on such details. So my reviews/feelings are rather more general than focused on every single detail.
But in my case, as it happens in music, the elephant stepped on my ear :p
 
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Seems so many ppl had this blades now. After likely 3 months since I only use it as a training blade, use it play 3 bo5 last weekend, end up won all 3 of them. I find out when you inside the table, quick flick really good and as a pointer techniques. Hope everyone enjoy the blade and keep find out more potential of it.
 
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Probably final update here. In the end I settled with D09c both sides for maximum blade/rubber/playing style synergy. I won way more points flat hitting/pressure blocking with V>20, but to advance further, developing topspin rpb (with D09c) appears more fruitful in long term. With V>20 I cannot lift backspin properly due to high percentage slippage, I believe it is a weakness of the rubber itself.

D05 actually has the best performance but on average requires higher speed/power level to work (continuous topspin speed drives). My average strength/endurance is unfortunately not good enough to support that style. One game and I would already be on low power, and to conserve power the overall performance is compensated.

I also tried D09c and D05 both 1.9mm and conclude that thinner rubbers are not recommended. Would rather get a slower blade and use bouncier rubbers max. for similar performance.

Rakza Z and Rakza Z Extra Hard are my good friends but they do not entirely perform up to expectation. RZ sponge is too soft and RZEH sponge is too hard (thick in feeling). Both creates a weird discrepancy in touch and control becomes difficult. If anything, RZEH could be suitable for players with sufficient power.

An additional note on the blade's capacity: Testing more on very far distances (did not measure but think 4m+) reveals that the blade does have a limit in support. Not that it cannot perform at such distance but the vibration is getting wild and I had to hold extra tight to not loose the blade. Control is like 75% remaining and obviously getting difficult. (Edit: a reminder that this cpen blade bought at 86g, measured now accurately at 83.7g after sanding down, is obviously leaning towards the lightest side. I reckon normal/heavier ones may have much stabler support. And I seriously suspect the scale provided by the store is rigged since the difference should be below 0.5g before and after sanding...)
 
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Something happened what should not have been happened. Recently my focus was directed to my new purchase Q968 Nat + Xiom C55. I was hopping that these can be a good candidates to replace my TB ZLF and T05 in terms of adjustment to modern TT. I did several attempts and….
and suddenly from the depths of the ocean appeared the forgotten Stiga Inspira Plus without a 1 rubber on bh with the old (without boost) H3neo which I was hating on q968... no I don't believe it? It cannot work.
My friend told me I have a rubber which I cannot handle but with your technique on BH would be perfect for you. What rubber? D05! Get lost! Had it previous and after reading all those comments I was afraid opening it and sold it. I can lend it to you and you can try.
All in all Q968 was left in the bag and for couple of training session Stiga Inspira Plus with reboostered H3neo BS (2.1mm) and D05 were used.
For a few training sessions I can't get over how wonderfully this setup plays. I usually don't play on Saturdays but we agreed today on a morning training and my friend told me that I haven't played so well so far.
Shit it should not have been happened. 😱
 
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Something happened what should not have been happened. Recently my focus was directed to my new purchase Q968 Nat + Xiom C55. I was hopping that these can be a good candidates to replace my TB ZLF and T05 in terms of adjustment to modern TT. I did several attempts and….
and suddenly from the depths of the ocean appeared the forgotten Stiga Inspira Plus without a 1 rubber on bh with the old (without boost) H3neo which I was hating on q968... no I don't believe it? It cannot work.
My friend told me I have a rubber which I cannot handle but with your technique on BH would be perfect for you. What rubber? D05! Get lost! Had it previous and after reading all those comments I was afraid opening it and sold it. I can lend it to you and you can try.
All in all Q968 was left in the bag and for couple of training session Stiga Inspira Plus with reboostered H3neo BS (2.1mm) and D05 were used.
For a few training sessions I can't get over how wonderfully this setup plays. I usually don't play on Saturdays but we agreed today on a morning training and my friend told me that I haven't played so well so far.
Shit it should not have been happened. 😱
Hhhhhhhhhh.
I actually grabbed mine a few weeks ago. And now I am in China training like there's no tomorrow and I use this as my racket with H3N BS 40deg 2.1mm that I cut and glued first a year ago and before I came to China I reboosted it with plain seamoon. It is fantastic.
On BH I just use normal Glayzer, and I don't have complaints either. I might opt to try H3N 37 deg but not sure... Glayzer is pretty sweet.
The racket is at 186g and fast as hell.
I'm in South China so hot and humid. Everything is okay. Actually better than okay. I beat already many coaches and their best students who play in university teams or club.
Even though I beat way more than I lost the coaches did provide me with great advice and they trained me for a gatorade 😂

Anyway, really solid blade, probably the best one I have since I'm out-chineseing the Chinese with it.
 
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Hhhhhhhhhh.
I actually grabbed mine a few weeks ago. And now I am in China training like there's no tomorrow and I use this as my racket with H3N BS 40deg 2.1mm that I cut and glued first a year ago and before I came to China I reboosted it with plain seamoon. It is fantastic.
On BH I just use normal Glayzer, and I don't have complaints either. I might opt to try H3N 37 deg but not sure... Glayzer is pretty sweet.
The racket is at 186g and fast as hell.
I'm in South China so hot and humid. Everything is okay. Actually better than okay. I beat already many coaches and their best students who play in university teams or club.
Even though I beat way more than I lost the coaches did provide me with great advice and they trained me for a gatorade 😂

Anyway, really solid blade, probably the best one I have since I'm out-chineseing the Chinese with it.
I started playing mine again, too, it's a great blade, I want to find a ST handle one. Saw one on AliExpress, but I don't trust them at all. Have you seen a ST one in China?
 
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I started playing mine again, too, it's a great blade, I want to find a ST handle one. Saw one on AliExpress, but I don't trust them at all. Have you seen a ST one in China?
Actually I haven't seen anyone using it but the players know what it is. Most players use Viscaria or HL5 or the Wang Chuqin blade recently. The better players get H3 and the HL5 for free so that's also a factor.
 
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This blade got on my radar last week. And the more I read what people are saying about it, the more I want to buy one 🤣.

But there is 1 thing that Im wondering, and thats spin capabilities. Gan mentioned in his video review that spin was only average, or “A-“.

I have owned a Timo Boll spirit for 10+ years now. And I have a love hate relationship with it. Reason being that I love the aggressive nature which turns my forehand from dangerous to deadly. But for whatever reason every rubber I stick on this blade seems to lack in spin.

Hybrid K3 was an exception, spin on that one was very good, even on TBS. But I have used MX-P, MX-D, FX-P and recently Hybrid MK. All of these I was quite disappointed with the spin I was able to generate.

Difference between all those and K3 is that K3 is tacky. So maybe after this season is over and I still want to but this blade, its time to go tacky on both sides.
 
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