Tibhar K3 durability and alternatives

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Hey All,

I'm really happy with my setup. I mean it's great K3 FH A1 BH. Now comes the issue..... I'm finding my K3's really fade rather fast. I'm training quite a bit at the moment but my present K3 is showing heavy signs of wear after 6.5 weeks.

It's a great rubber, Soooo how do I give it a longer life or do I change to maybe C2 on the FH or another brand which is very similar to K3 in feel but with a longer life.

I'm looking for 53% or harder,

Any ideas would be greatly received!.

Cheers

GZ
Im around week 8 of my K3 and I have same issue. Its dying or already dead. I use special drops I forgot the name off to make it come back to life each time I use it but this isnt working too well either anymore. Its a bummer as I love the rubber.
I ordered Dignics 09c as many say it will last a lot longer and are similar or better than K3.
 
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I heard from a K3 user, that the rubber is only good for 1 week, or maybe at most into the 2nd week (and will be used for training only).
look at 30 hours usage a week or so.

He is sponsored, so can use as many as he want, but that is even more inconvenience than my boosted H3 that I used to change every 2 to 3 weeks
I have the same experience with K3 and Bluegrip C2. After a good training session I already seen marks on the topsheet which is odd since D09c doesn't have any for about a week. That's like 2h vs 10h for me. In fact I'm pretty sure K3 had marks after a good topspin...

So I just assume every C-touch ESN rubber is the same be it Andro, Xiom, Joola, Donic, Tibhar etc.
It's a shame tho since K3 is a really good rubber, I would even go as far as argue that it's better than D09c, especially for the average Joe.
The sponge and the topsheet elasticity seem to be good, these attributes don't die, it's just the topsheet grip that sublimates.
I wish Tibhar would release K3 grippy. I guess that's kind of what Victas did with the V>20 double extra in case someone wishes the same as me.
 
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I have the same experience with K3 and Bluegrip C2. After a good training session I already seen marks on the topsheet which is odd since D09c doesn't have any for about a week. That's like 2h vs 10h for me. In fact I'm pretty sure K3 had marks after a good topspin...

So I just assume every C-touch ESN rubber is the same be it Andro, Xiom, Joola, Donic, Tibhar etc.
It's a shame tho since K3 is a really good rubber, I would even go as far as argue that it's better than D09c, especially for the average Joe.
my thoughts too, since its the same maker and almost the same rubber across the board.
I would believe the durability isn't too far out between the different brand

Maybe in the future, it will be better. with ESN experience in such rubbers getting better.
But until then, D09C is way cheaper basically when compared to K3. If any alternatives, then Chinese brands should be the main alternative to K3 and not other ESNs
 
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That is why I am not tempted to use ESN hybrid rubbers. I am sticking with either H3 provincial blue sponge or Sanwei Target National on my forehand. I am not really missing out not trying K3, Dragon Grip, etc.
 
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my thoughts too, since its the same maker and almost the same rubber across the board.
I would believe the durability isn't too far out between the different brand
Too far out they might not be, but the complaints about very poor durability are mostly heard from K3 users.

Maybe there are just more K3 users than players with other "same generation" ESN hybrids, maybe justified by a superior performance fresh out of the package. But also maybe that superior performance makes it fade earlier.
 
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Too far out they might not be, but the complaints about very poor durability are mostly heard from K3 users.

Maybe there are just more K3 users than players with other "same generation" ESN hybrids, maybe justified by a superior performance fresh out of the package. But also maybe that superior performance makes it fade earlier.
you are right that K3 probably has a bigger market share among ESN hybrids
superior out + fade quicker does make sense too.
 
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You can use vinegar and than oil to refresh the topsheet.
Vinegar is one of few things that can dissolve rubber. Oil makes it a little sticky again.
Just use a few drops and spread it even on the whole rubber and put a foil on.

Wait for an hour and remove the foil, clean the rubber on do the same with olive oil.
 
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why don't you tell us about it?
plays softer than the sponge suggest,hard grippy but not tack,shor short is a blast.
Topsins have a lot of spin as has the rubber in general,but it is on the slower side speedwise.Glayzer Level,or a notch above,but not by much.
I love him but it is expensive,durability is after 3 Months still great but only played him once per week.
Play him on BTY Kiso Hinoki V,so take that into consideration,cause of the trampoline effect of the Blade.
I mean that with the catapult and hardness from the rubber,on a carbon blade it will be another story i guess.
Maybe i reglue him on the Blade from SDC (Fortino Pro like comp) has about 1450 htz and is an outer Spectra Blade.#Then i can tell more,
I didn´t found a thread about the rubber,despite that every new rubber has a thread here,or am I just to stupid for the Search?
SDC Blade
 
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I play the Blueastar A1,dunno why nobody talks about it.
Plenty of people talk about it. Here is a google translation from the link below:

My teammate (youth player, 2nd Bundesliga/Austria) has been playing the Bluestar A1 on his forehand since the summer. Backhand with Bluestorm Pro. Since we train regularly, I have been able to gather impressions of the A1 in the last few months and also examine it myself and test it a bit on his blade (Boll ALC). Conclusion in advance: A very good rubber from Donic!

Compared to the Tibhar Hybrid K3, which I play on my forehand, the Bluestar A1 is similar: 52-53° sponge hardness, fine-pored sponge, very grippy top rubber. While the K3 is slightly (!) sticky when new - but loses this stickiness after a few hours of play - this is not the case with the Bluestar. The top rubber on the Bluestar is "only" highly grippy from the start (as is the case with the K3 after playing several times). The top rubber on the A1 gives me a slightly more compact impression than the K3. Nevertheless, despite the hard sponge, both rubbers have a relatively flexible top rubber, which allows for longer ball contact time and thus facilitates play over the table and active opening balls (especially against backspin). In topspin play, the Bluestar A1 seems a little faster and more catapulting than the K3. In my opinion, the flight curve is (even) higher with the A1 than with the K3. As with the K3, you have to be careful with the racket angle when doing topspin and blocking and close/close the angle a little more than with rubbers with a flatter flight curve so that the balls don't go over the table. Both the A1 and the K3 play well, especially when playing over the table, opening with a lot of rotation and when pulling back, because the top rubber grips the ball securely and the higher flight curve means the topspins make a nice, long curve. The weight (each in MAX) is a little higher with the A1 (~52-53g) than with the K3 (~49-50g).

Overall, due to these differences, the A1 has a little less "hybrid characteristics" than the K3 for me and is in return closer to rubbers with a normal top rubber and more catapult. In my opinion, both rubbers are optimal forehand rubbers for active table tennis at the table or from half distance, provided you can cope with the sponge hardness and can activate it. You should play spin block passively and move more actively over the balls. A1 and K3 are not suitable for "holding" or straight blocking. In contrast to the K3, the Bluestar has "identical" alternatives with a lower sponge hardness in the form of the A2 and A3, which I think is very good in this case, as the 52.5° sponge hardness is certainly perceived by many as too hard.

In terms of durability, I can say that the Bluestar, like the K3, also collects marks in the top rubber and gradually reduces the high grip. The durability is a little better than the K3, but unfortunately it is not very good either. As counterparts, the Donic Bluestorm Pro and Tibhar Quantum X Pro last about twice as long as the A1 or K3. After 60-70 hours of play, the loss of performance with the A1 is clearly noticeable because the high initial grip has reduced significantly.

Compared to the Tenergy 05, which was mentioned in the last posts, which I played myself for almost 10 years and still regularly stick on my brother's racket, the A1 is much harder and significantly faster when hitting the ball through. Due to the lower sponge hardness, I think the A2 or A3 are more obvious alternatives to medium-hard Tensor rubbers such as the T05. The jump from T05 to A1 is a big one due to the difference in sponge hardness (46° vs. 52.5°). I also have a training colleague who also plays in the 2nd Bundesliga, who tested the A1 in the summer and found it very good, but then went back to the T05, which he has been playing for over 10 years. He said the change would take longer for him and he feels less secure with many balls than with the T05. The playing and hitting feel is different with these new hybrid rubbers and takes some getting used to compared to normal Tensor rubbers or Tenergy. He is considering testing the A2 again in the future.

Overall, the A1 is a very good rubber. The only drawback in my opinion is actually the high price in combination with the durability. The same applies to the K3, which I have already written about in detail in its topic section. I have

attached a video (edited to ~15 minutes) from training a few weeks ago. Warm-up and 3 exercises. The material played is Ovtcharov ALC with Hybrid K3/Quantum X Pro or Boll ALC with Bluestar A1/Bluestorm Pro.

 
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I don't have any reliable data on durability besides a few positive remarks in a German forum but the sometimes overlooked Codexx EL Pro 52 and EF Pro 54 (or the Codexx Super Select 53 and 55) might be an option.
I feel like a broken record talking about these but the SuperSelect 53 is a m a z i n g. It's a very unique hybrid in that I'd describe as more of european rubber that was made tacky, rather than a chinese rubber with a new sponge. The tackniess can pickup a cover sheet, but nothing else. The big benefit here is that flat hitting doesn't suffer. Now, just for fun I decided to buy a sheet of Codexx EF 54 ($37.5 on Ebay from Gewo). This is completely different than the SuperSelect. Extremely tacky, with the look of older chinese rubbers. I won't be playing until Thursday after which I'll post more.
 
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I feel like a broken record talking about these but the SuperSelect 53 is a m a z i n g. It's a very unique hybrid in that I'd describe as more of european rubber that was made tacky, rather than a chinese rubber with a new sponge. The tackniess can pickup a cover sheet, but nothing else. The big benefit here is that flat hitting doesn't suffer. Now, just for fun I decided to buy a sheet of Codexx EF 54 ($37.5 on Ebay from Gewo). This is completely different than the SuperSelect. Extremely tacky, with the look of older chinese rubbers. I won't be playing until Thursday after which I'll post more.
Codexx 52/54 are in line with the Golden Tango/PS, Rakza Z/ExtraHard, Hybrid K1/K2, Sieger PK50 lineage of rubbers than the more modern K3/Codexx Superselect.
 
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Decided to try A1 both sides. I've got a C2 as well but unsure if 55 degrees is going to be both too heavy and hard. I had thought of maybe A1 BHFH or C2 backhand even maybe. Anybody else play harder rubber backhand than forehand?
 
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