Rubber peeled off after gluing, what should I do next?

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I think I applied too much pressure on my dignics after gluing it for the first time. Never had this problem with my MX-P but I guess ESNs are different

Anyways, regardless of past wrongs, now I have this to deal with:

IMG_3186.jpeg


IMG_3184.jpeg


What would you do in my position?

1) lift the flap, add some glue, clamp and let dry
2) unglue and reglue the entire thing
3) do nothing, most of the sweet spot is glued fine

Would appreciate the help, hopefully this doesn’t turn out too bad but pretty sad that this is what such a high investment looks like :(
 
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Never seen this caused by something as too much pressure. It did happen to me 1 or 2 times (bad glue job) and trying to reglue just the flap, will not work. Remove rubber and reglue. Keep in mind, that if you remove a rubber which was just glued earlier the same day, it can get messy (depending on type of glue used)
 
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Despite how many times I tried, I never liked result of 1) Maybe I wasn't patient enough to get a glue dry properly before sticking surfaces together and that used to leave me thinking whether I missed due to that glueing or because of my technique.. Don't see anything extremely wrong here, just that thing didn't work for me long-long ago
3 - never liked this neither, especially on FH side, it adds some vibrations which I never liked
Nowdays I always go with option # 2 - reglue completely.
 
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says Table tennis clown
says Table tennis clown
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Re-glueing is the best way.

But first find out why it came loose.
Is your blade varnished ?
Has it been lightly sanded after varnishing to brake any gloss ?
If this has happened it needs to be remedied.
Lastly, if you really do not want to remove the whole sheet, you can slip a piece of a gluesheet under the spot and keep the loose bit solidly in place.
 
says EJ-Victim
says EJ-Victim
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Reglue. Can be a pain to align it perfectly (or near perfect) once it's cut to size though, so get yourself ready for a frustrating evening if you want it to look good.
I read about positioning with bakery paper or parchment paper.
Glue both sides let the glue dry. Then take piece of the paper and lay it on the blade. Position the rubber on top and pull away the paper while holding the rubber.
I tried it a few times and it works like a … nah it works well enough.
 
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I read about positioning with bakery paper or parchment paper.
Glue both sides let the glue dry. Then take piece of the paper and lay it on the blade. Position the rubber on top and pull away the paper while holding the rubber.
I tried it a few times and it works like a … nah it works well enough.
Parchment paper works perfect for me. Just make sure to leave a small sliver of exposed area at the bottom. That's where you want to align first. If you mess up well at least you only get clumping and bad contact at the base where it doesn't matter. When it's aligned right, then you lift the rest of the rubber up, and then pull out the parchment paper.
 
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Happens to me all the time since I have a lot of limba outer blades and I seal all of them. I just reglue if it starts getting bad. I use a sheet of transparent non-sticky, uncut protective cover for alignment.

I do it often enough that I'm now considering cutting a 1 inch section off the bottom of the cover sheet. This way I can put the entire rubber on the blade and align every edge first, then remove the 1 inch section and let that part stick together, then remove the rest and glue the rest. Sometimes I find that even not aligning a little bit at the end can be an issue.
 
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says Serve, top, edge. Repeat.
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Take it off, clean it (use a tt ball and do light strokes). Then glue it back up, use a fair bit of glue on the blade and do 2 medium layers on the rubber, add the second after the first layer dries, you know. When you apply the rubbers use a roller and don't give it too much pressure, just enough to make sure it doesn't bubble up.

Then after you glue it take a few heavy books and let it overnight to weight it down evenly. At morning it should be perfect.
 
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I read about positioning with bakery paper or parchment paper.
Glue both sides let the glue dry. Then take piece of the paper and lay it on the blade. Position the rubber on top and pull away the paper while holding the rubber.
I tried it a few times and it works like a … nah it works well enough.
Interesting. I'll have to try it next time.
 
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I think I applied too much pressure on my dignics after gluing it for the first time. Never had this problem with my MX-P but I guess ESNs are different

Anyways, regardless of past wrongs, now I have this to deal with:

View attachment 28048

View attachment 28049

What would you do in my position?

1) lift the flap, add some glue, clamp and let dry
2) unglue and reglue the entire thing
3) do nothing, most of the sweet spot is glued fine

Would appreciate the help, hopefully this doesn’t turn out too bad but pretty sad that this is what such a high investment looks like :(
Yeah, reglue. But it seems like you put really big pressure since the pimples are this visible. With regluing normally, it could play differently.
 
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I think I applied too much pressure on my dignics after gluing it for the first time. Never had this problem with my MX-P but I guess ESNs are different

Anyways, regardless of past wrongs, now I have this to deal with:

View attachment 28048

View attachment 28049

What would you do in my position?

1) lift the flap, add some glue, clamp and let dry
2) unglue and reglue the entire thing
3) do nothing, most of the sweet spot is glued fine

Would appreciate the help, hopefully this doesn’t turn out too bad but pretty sad that this is what such a high investment looks like :(
Did you boost that D05? It just looks boosted with the pips being so visible. The problem is the booster is kind of a glue solvent so if the glue doesn't endure the booster it can get liquidy and detach.
I guess you need to change glue and reglue the rubber. DHS No15, Sueke No2 are very good with boosted rubbers.
 
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Thank you all for your suggestions!
I went ahead and re glued it, here are the results

A couple of comments:

- the suggestion to use a ping pong ball to remove glue was a good one! I still had a few tears on the inside as you can see in the picture, but that doesn’t matter too much I think

- I wouldn't be able to cover the full area again unless I stretched it back to previous tensions. I opted to just get it glued on for the long term. Looks silly and Im still somewhat sad about it, but it works well and at least I don’t need to throw away an expensive af rubber

IMG_3202.jpeg
 
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