Should I buy DHS Long 5

[Zezima]

I had the Mx-D as my FH rubber not as my Backhand Rubber so It doesnt make much sense to compare it to a Rakza Soft.

I agree with @jk1980 it's quite hard to keep it short with MXD thats why I will go with G1 for my forehand and hope it will be better.

As for the BH Rubber I still couldn't decide. Rakza 7, Rakza Z, C1, MXS and I have the Gewo Hype Kr 47.5mm but which one is better at what? Not just in short game but easier to loop? Also explain what it means that it's easier to loop. Then I can decide which one I should buy I think with the Long5 I think I need a high ball trajectory rubber but let's see.

 

[Lazer]

I prefer to as a BH rubber have something that is s faster than on FH but not too bouncy. The one rubber I wouldn’t use on BH of the ones You mentioned above is Rakza Z. C1 I don’t know. MXS I don’t really like but that’s me. So to me Rakza Z on FH and Rakza 7 on BH would work. G1 would work on either side (but as I said I would prefer the BH rubber to be faster than FH).

Don’t think too much about it, just choose. Get a second identical blade and use it to test different rubbers on.

Cheers
L-zr

 

[Zezima]

Dont people say backhand Rubber should be about 2° softer than FH? I think I will go with Rakza 7 or C1 on BH just need to look more into it what their weakness and strenghts are.

 

[Lazer]

Dont people say backhand Rubber should be about 2° softer than FH? I think I will go with Rakza 7 or C1 on BH just need to look more into it what their weakness and strenghts are.

Personal preference, since I have less force in my BH, speed is important but also that it doesn’t bounce too much.
I played a lot with Rakza 7 it’s strength is that it doesn’t really have any weaknesses. It’s a “Jack of all trades, master of none”.

Cheers
L-zr

 

[jk1980]

Dont people say backhand Rubber should be about 2° softer than FH? I think I will go with Rakza 7 or C1 on BH just need to look more into it what their weakness and strenghts are.

Those two are fine choices and both are available in thickness below 2.0mm which is also important.
I played with both but it was a while back and iirc C-1 is spinnier then Rakza 7.

 

[Der_Echte]

jk1980​

...
Should I stick to the ST Handle if I played with one all this time? I am not sure if its gonna feel way different with a head heavy blade that I have tested with a FL Handle...

...

Hi Z,

The edited question from your quote is a very important question one should want to understand what is going on to decide.

The advantage of a ST handle is that the FH to BH transition in a rally is much easier and intuitive over a FL handle.

if that is important, than consider placing more weight on that point. There are no perfect solutions to everything, but always trade-offs.

I have played ST handles for the last 4-5 years exclusively and achieved my best USATT rating using a ST handled blade and have had many of my best tourney performances using ST handled blades. I do not believe it to be an accident, but a player has to experience his own experiences and discoveries.

 

[SlowPower]

Id go for the c1 on backhand.
The HL5 has quiet some catapult on harder shots and a high trajectory- i wouldnt want something too soft and bouncy on it.
Also the C1 is very durable!

 

[Zezima]

Today I had a trainingspartner who had both Rakza 7 2.00mm and C1 in 2.0mm (new just one time played). Tomorrow I will play with the Rakza Z and on Wednesday with the C1 on the Backhand and then decide which one I will go for.

I really liked my gewo hype kr 47.5 1.9mm today on the backhand. Was super easy to do active blocks had the perfect length. Only problem was backhand topspin during the game. Success rate was about 50% but when I made it, it was a dangerous spinny ball.

G1 looks really really good on the forehand. I really like it. Slightly worried if I get the 90g blade and its a new blade that its gonna feel very different to this testblade from 2015 that is 94g and also FL handle (I will go with straight I think) Hoping for the best really

 

[jk1980]

Today I had a trainingspartner who had both Rakza Z 2.00mm and C1 in 2.0mm (new just one time played). Tomorrow I will play with the Rakza Z and on Wednesday with the C1 on the Backhand and then decide which one I will go for.

Wait a minute, you are mixing things up. People in here and tabletennis11 recommended rakza 7 as BH rubber.

While i do play the Rakza Z on the backhand, this is really something way different than Rakza 7.
Rakza Z has about 50° hardness, so it is a little softer than MXD, but way harder than G-1or Hype KR. Add to this that Rakza Z does have a sticky top sheet.
I would not tell you not to test the Rakza Z, but just know that this is not the easy to play rubber that people recommended here.

Another thing to clear things up a little, because it was written in here: There is no such thing as Rakza Z soft. It does NOT exist.

There is Rakza 7 and Rakza 7 Soft and then there is Rakza Z and Rakza Z extra hard. Of course there are others as well, but i would not focus on these for your backhand. Rakza 7 or Rakza 7 soft would definitely be easier to play with than Rakza Z, but Rakza Z is definitely more powerful and spinny than the others.

 

[Zezima]

For some reason my Brain confused the 7 with Z. They have a similiar shape I guess

Ye ye I meant the 7 obviously. And when I meant Rakza Soft I also meant the 7 soft.

Thanks for the correction!

 

[Zezima]

Yesterday I tried out the RAKZA 7 on my BH. It was very easy(controlled) to do active strokes on normal balls. Also quite good opening on long Backspin balls. Superb at flipping short balls (low arc controlled and spiny).

When he was topspinning it was very hard to keep the ball on to the table. I figured it out later which was to close racket almost press it down aswell (lol) and hold the racket very losely. His Setup was Timo Boll ALC with Dignics 09c both sides. He was testing too and said he doesn´t get as much spin as his old setup which had joola something ~33° on an allround blade? very soft appearently which is not produced anymore, so he is trying out something else. Appearently his current setup feels slower than his previous one. Either way rockets were coming to my side LOL.

Tomorrow or maybe today (If I find a partner) I will try the C1. Its very hard to compare since on different days different partner also hard to remember the feel from just one time playing. So my decision gonna be a bit random.

 

[Zezima]

Tried out the C1 yesterday. I gotta say its a bit spinier but at the same time less control. Felt for me a bit more for advanced player.
After that I could already make a decisin and bought:

HL5 ST 90g
RAKZA 7 BH 2.00
FASTARC G1 FH 2.00

Hoping to not get dissapointed :S

My brothers blade arrived. He got himself Nittaku Acoustic carbon with g1 2.00mm on FH and same rubber but 1.8mm BH.
It was very hard to take out the energy from the opponents shots. But I wouldnt say the blade was faster. I could TS with confident. I still think it might be a tad zoo fast for him still will see..

 

[JJ Ng]

Tried out the C1 yesterday. I gotta say its a bit spinier but at the same time less control. Felt for me a bit more for advanced player.
After that I could already make a decisin and bought:

HL5 ST 90g
RAKZA 7 BH 2.00
FASTARC G1 FH 2.00

Hoping to not get dissapointed :S

My brothers blade arrived. He got himself Nittaku Acoustic carbon with g1 2.00mm on FH and same rubber but 1.8mm BH.
It was very hard to take out the energy from the opponents shots. But I wouldnt say the blade was faster. I could TS with confident. I still think it might be a tad zoo fast for him still will see..

I have the regular Nittaku Acoustic carbon (not the inner carbon). And it was too fast with T05 fx and T64 fx on the blade. I had to tame it down with hurricane 3 neo on the FH and Xiom Vega Europe on the BH. I like it. I use it mostly for doubles right now. I am busy testing various rubber combination on Gambler Blackout carbon blade right now. I have like four of them being tested (all four have H3 on the FH; the BH has Rakza 7 soft, Rakza X soft, Xiom Vega X and C-1). I will go back to that Nittaku Acoustic some time later this month.

 

[Gozo Aruna]

G1 is like salt & pepper. It taste good with whatever dish. If in doubt, G1 is what's it all about.

R7 is a safe rubber. It is like going on a date with your best friend since high school.

 

[SlowPower]

Tried out the C1 yesterday. I gotta say its a bit spinier but at the same time less control. Felt for me a bit more for advanced player.
After that I could already make a decisin and bought:

HL5 ST 90g
RAKZA 7 BH 2.00
FASTARC G1 FH 2.00

Hoping to not get dissapointed :S

My brothers blade arrived. He got himself Nittaku Acoustic carbon with g1 2.00mm on FH and same rubber but 1.8mm BH.
It was very hard to take out the energy from the opponents shots. But I wouldnt say the blade was faster. I could TS with confident. I still think it might be a tad zoo fast for him still will see..

Why would he want to take out energy? Just give it back 😜
Strange you didnt like the c1, maybe top thick sponge?

 

[Zezima]

I couldn't Pinpoint exactly what the reason was, but when you just hold the racket closed, it would make a high vowel? sound and fall straight down, if that makes sense. I didn't really experience this with other blades. I can do these type of shots with my old blade and people kind of hate it because they give a lot of energy into the ball and I take it all out and give them an empty slow ball back.

The c1 requires you to be all time focused and give the right amount of forward motion with your wrist. Works better if you spin the ball if that makes sense. With Rakza I could also do controlled straight shots without having to spin it.

Maybe I am talking some bullshiet here but that's how I got my impression from those 2 rubbers, correct me if it's wrong.

 

[Choosikick]

Hi Zezima!
Regarding your first blade question, the short answer is LONG 5, and the long and extended one goes further.
In all my years of testing different blades, including those I made my father, I have come to the conclusion that for the most part all blades can be classified into one of two groups - long-throw and short-throw. That is, some blades play well if you perform long movements, while the latter, on the contrary, are short. And long or short movements for the most part depend on the physiological characteristics of a person - whether he is tall with long limbs, or short in stature with short limbs. You are a tall guy with long limbs, so a long-travel blade, which is LONG5, will suit you .
Short-stroke blades are often hard, fast with an external carbon layer, such as Viscaria or Schlager carbon, and they are successfully played by players of short stature with short but very sharp movements - Fan Zendong, Jean Giquet, Timo Bol and many others.
Long-stroke blades for professional players often have an internal layer of carbon reinforcement and are played by players with long movements - Ma Long, Wang Chukin, Patrick Francisco, Dima Ovtcharov and many others.
Of course, there are exceptions to any rule, but for the most part it works well.

 

[Gozo Aruna]

Hi Zezima!
Regarding your first blade question, the short answer is LONG 5, and the long and extended one goes further.
In all my years of testing different blades, including those I made my father, I have come to the conclusion that for the most part all blades can be classified into one of two groups - long-throw and short-throw. That is, some blades play well if you perform long movements, while the latter, on the contrary, are short. And long or short movements for the most part depend on the physiological characteristics of a person - whether he is tall with long limbs, or short in stature with short limbs. You are a tall guy with long limbs, so a long-travel blade, which is LONG5, will suit you .
Short-stroke blades are often hard, fast with an external carbon layer, such as Viscaria or Schlager carbon, and they are successfully played by players of short stature with short but very sharp movements - Fan Zendong, Jean Giquet, Timo Bol and many others.
Long-stroke blades for professional players often have an internal layer of carbon reinforcement and are played by players with long movements - Ma Long, Wang Chukin, Patrick Francisco, Dima Ovtcharov and many others.
Of course, there are exceptions to any rule, but for the most part it works well.

Are you able to classify for those thick bulky one ply hinoki blade?

 

[Choosikick]

Are you able to classify for those thick bulky one ply hinoki blade?

Yes, it's a short throw blade.

 

[Zezima]

Hi Zezima!
Regarding your first blade question, the short answer is LONG 5, and the long and extended one goes further.
In all my years of testing different blades, including those I made my father, I have come to the conclusion that for the most part all blades can be classified into one of two groups - long-throw and short-throw. That is, some blades play well if you perform long movements, while the latter, on the contrary, are short. And long or short movements for the most part depend on the physiological characteristics of a person - whether he is tall with long limbs, or short in stature with short limbs. You are a tall guy with long limbs, so a long-travel blade, which is LONG5, will suit you .
Short-stroke blades are often hard, fast with an external carbon layer, such as Viscaria or Schlager carbon, and they are successfully played by players of short stature with short but very sharp movements - Fan Zendong, Jean Giquet, Timo Bol and many others.
Long-stroke blades for professional players often have an internal layer of carbon reinforcement and are played by players with long movements - Ma Long, Wang Chukin, Patrick Francisco, Dima Ovtcharov and many others.
Of course, there are exceptions to any rule, but for the most part it works well.

Can you verify that in reality after watching one of my videos that it is the case for my strokes?

I saw a chinese coach talking about FH loop that the elbow must be a bit away from the body and when you loop you bring up your elbow aswell with the same racket angle on the entire stroke.

I was comparing it to my technique and I think I have my elbow closer to my body.