Blade Lacquering, i haven't done this ,should i and why?

[chuckjordan2]

Anything with 'Poly' on it is PolyUrethane. It's a hardener. You can look it up if you don't believe me.

A wood 'Sealer' seals the pores.

If you really want to get an expert answer, posting on a wood-working forum would be the best. This is a table tennis forum.

 

[Der_Echte]

I used mini wax polyurethane a few drops on a cloth rubbed it on thin and quick, stuff dried in one minute. I finally got my replacement Kim Jung Hoon Blade, had no time to modify, do that later...

The BEAST MOD... KJH is gunna play moar like a beast after that.

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[Baal]

Polyurethane can definitely change how a blade plays.

 

[yanb]

I seal my blades. Blade face, handle and all. I seal heavily on the handle and very thin on the blade face. Helps a great deal in protecting the top ply when your remove the rubber. Makes removing the rubber easier and makes it easy to rub off glue residue on the blade face. It also protects the blade from getting damp from sweat. My sealed blades look clean and shiny even my 6 year old blades don't have stains or look dull. Does sealing make the blade surface harder? I seal very thinly and I never really noticed it. Ever so slightly maybe but nothing to affect the playing characteristic of the blade. Hope this helps

Will sealing the handle make it hard to grip during play?

 

[UpSideDownCarl]

Will sealing the handle make it hard to grip during play?

This thread is a few years old. But the question is a good one.

I do not like messing with the handle. I like the handle to be naked wood. I have felt sealed handles. What I disliked most about them is the wood did not absorb any of the sweat from my hands so when you are sweating, then the handle becomes much more slippery. It never caused the handle to fly out of my hand. But that is because I hold mostly with my index finger and thumb rather than with the other three fingers. Loose grip.

 

[yanb]

This thread is a few years old. But the question is a good one.

I do not like messing with the handle. I like the handle to be naked wood. I have felt sealed handles. What I disliked most about them is the wood did not absorb any of the sweat from my hands so when you are sweating, then the handle becomes much more slippery. It never caused the handle to fly out of my hand. But that is because I hold mostly with my index finger and thumb rather than with the other three fingers. Loose grip.

Thank you for your feedback, I will not seal the handle.

Is sealing the shoulder/wing/neck a good idea? the only purpose is to keep there clean.

I also consider sealing the blade edge as the edge tape may smear it.

 

[Loopadoop]

To be sure, I seal everything with 2 coats of polyurethane minwax, edges face and handle.

 

[splasher78]

Have you ever owned one of the delicate Stiga blades Der is referring to?

I have Carl, STIGA OC. Sealing is a MUST with this blade, i learned that the hard way. As well as the GREAT DHS H-301. I don't remember the top ply but it is super absorbent and i've read owners almost ripping half the top ply off because they didn't seal first. And you are right, if sealed correctly, meaning not a half inch thick amount of lacquer it really doesn't change the feeling of the blade at all. I personally can't tell the difference in feel with my sealed blades.

 

[yanb]

I sealed my new W968. The blade was sealed with one coat, the shoulder/handle/edge with two coats, using JOOLA Blade Sealing Varnish. It looks very well. The handle feels rough and anti-slip.

 

[yogi_bear]

Do not use a brush when sealing the blade. Use a cloth and rub it on the surface ro make it thinner.

 

[Silver Server]

Is it possible to use the Minwax poly that comes in a spray can? Spray on cloth and wipe on, or directly on the blade & wipe?

 

[splasher78]

Is it possible to use the Minwax poly that comes in a spray can? Spray on cloth and wipe on, or directly on the blade & wipe?

I would spray on cloth first then wipe on.

 

[goodhand]

Re-seal Every time Changing Rubber?

I have Carl, STIGA OC. Sealing is a MUST with this blade, i learned that the hard way. As well as the GREAT DHS H-301. I don't remember the top ply but it is super absorbent and i've read owners almost ripping half the top ply off because they didn't seal first. And you are right, if sealed correctly, meaning not a half inch thick amount of lacquer it really doesn't change the feeling of the blade at all. I personally can't tell the difference in feel with my sealed blades.

Useful discussion thread, thanks a lot to everyone who contributed.

Just wondering, do I need to apply the lacquer every time I change rubber? The blade has been lacquered and sealed when new.

Also, I am getting a new one-ply Kiso Hinoki 9.2 mm thick blade, would I need to seal it too?

Your valuable opinion will be much appreciated.

 

[UpSideDownCarl]

No need to reseal. If you seal once, it should be good for the long run unless you use solvent to remove the sealant.

I would not seal a 1 ply Hinoki. It does not need sealing.

 

[goodhand]

No need to reseal. If you seal once, it should be good for the long run unless you use solvent to remove the sealant.

I would not seal a 1 ply Hinoki. It does not need sealing.

Great! This clearly addressed my uncertainties. Thank you so very much.

 

[alas26]

No need to reseal. If you seal once, it should be good for the long run unless you use solvent to remove the sealant.

I would not seal a 1 ply Hinoki. It does not need sealing.

Someone from TT11 (or megaspin, I can’t remember anymore) said that you should seal your blade after every 4 or 5 rubber replacements to help prevent splintering.

Can anyone else shed some light on that?


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[lasta]

No need, I've replaced rubbers some 20x on some of my blades.

 

[Baal]

If you use a good glue like Finezip it is not necessary for most blades. My favorite blade was made in 2008. It is in great condition.

 

[alas26]

What about using REvolution 3 glue? And what if I have some top-head cracks from table hits? Will another coat of laquer serve any other benefits?


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[vik2000]

No need to reseal. If you seal once, it should be good for the long run unless you use solvent to remove the sealant.

I would not seal a 1 ply Hinoki. It does not need sealing.

How do you determine which blade would likely require sealing? Does it depend on the surface wood composite? Or is it manufacturer (seems like many Stiga blades need sealing).

Also, you mentioned earlier in your post that the wood will absorb WBG. Is this really a risk? We always wait until the glue is completely dry (no longer in liquid form) before gluing the rubber. Will this still lead to water being absorbed...?