Friendship 729 battle 3

[Zwill]

I am glad more people are catching up to Battle 3.

High in Quality, Low in price.
Easily available and quite underrated and unpopular so far.

Just takes some patience to get over the first sessions.

It's very interesting that I like the very same stuff that people recommend and give good feedback on and on the other hand I recommend other stuff and the very same people like it too. It seems like an endless accoustic feedback that is amplified to oblivion but it's just people liking the same kind of gear in different or the same way.

 

[KenTT]

I have been using B3 39 ° in FH for 3 months. It is very good in spin and control but slower than rubbers like D05. The sponge also feels rather dull and difficult to hit through. However I boosted it with 2 layers of Haifa white oil last week and played it this morning. The rubber feels total different, lively, with good speed, easy to hit through and keeping the same spin and control. It performs pretty much like the D05 except that D05 has a little bit more dwell time, B3 bounces off the blade a little bit quicker. For those who uses B3, I highly recommend boosting it. I am thinking to get the red one as BH later.

 

[longle]

Battle 3... I got my sheet in 2023 June?? I glued it on the W968 FH side and 3 things come to my mind: Slow, didn't like, glue didn't attach to the sponge. For me slow and didn't like is kinda the same thing, I hate slow rubbers, but in hindsight that I could remove it form my blade like I remove toilet paper from a roll was super disappointing. I probably was using Revolution 3 glue at the time, it doesn't work so well with the Battle 3 sponge, at least for the first gluing. Maybe for 2nd time, it's ok. So I guess I suggest if you put on some glue layers and they come off with zero effort then take the glue layers off and reglue again. The sponge has something on it that the first glue layer will (probably) remove.

So for me B3 was slow as heck with W968, I felt nothing just utter disappointment and darkness. I can't remember any redeeming quality. Maybe it was pretty light but I would just call that OK and it was sticky enough, which I was expecting and not a redeeming feature. Honestly, I felt like 729 should just make more B2 Gold or the orange sponge rubbers instead.

So I was like maybe I will boost it. This was around 2023 September after I got the Rxton 9 blue sponge, which I hated even more. So I applied 2 thin layers of Winion booster which is pretty much like a thin Seamoon. And then I let it sit until now. It is April 2024, so 6 months later? I never actually tried the rubber with the fresh booster on it. But now I was like what the heck I glued it on my Zhou Qihao SALC 90 blade. The rubber was totally flat, so not sure how much the 6 months old booster was in the sponge, I wager not much at all. I used Sueke No 2 glue 2 layer on the sponge and 2 layer on the blade. On the Joola ZQ SALC 90 the previously slow B3 (now "boosted") feels bouncy as FRACK. It is too bloody bouncy. I had warm up issues as it was so bouncy, and when I was doing some hard drives (topspin-drives) I felt something similar as with my 2021 H3N BS National rubber. My drives were going half a meter long. I am now used to Mantra Pro XH and much bouncier rubbers but still the B3 with 6 months old boost is fast as bloody hell.

What else? The topsheet grip is amazing, the tack disappeared over the 6-9 months, now it feels semi tacky, it can pick up the ball like a Dignics 09c, but the topsheet is grippy as hell. It has this sandpaper like quality like you can feel it's not smooth, it's dry and coarse but it grips the ball better than anything, and the topsheet is really strong and elastic.

I have the 40 degrees version in black "boosted" and on FH I love it. So I immediately scrambled to @harty shop since he has a discount for 23EUR for B3 black and bought it. And since he has not got any red at 38 degrees I went to Aliexpress and ordered a sheet of 38 degrees for BH since I tried the 40 deg black "boosted" on BH and it feels fracking amazing too. Like H3N national red is nowhere...
I read @longle is now on H3N 38 red on BH... but try the B3 I know you have B3, stick it on BH, maybe boost it even.
And B3 is light too, on a normal blade 46-7g... that is amazing.

First it might be slow, I read that it needs a few hours to break in. I know this is the case with many Chinese rubbers, I just recently experienced it within the same session so if someone gets 2 sheets of B3 just dedicate a session if not 2 for breaking in the rubbers, and on both sides. I see Chinese players breaking in their red Chinese rubbers too on FH so it's a thing. Still not enough? Boost it and I wonder if B3 just keeps a permanent boost?

The topsheet quality of B3 is really amazing. So strong, elastic without it being hard or empty as B2 on small impact. I had many B2 rubbers, never ever had a bubble on them. B2 golden I used for the longest I think, the topsheet lasts forever, usually the sponge dies, but I if the sponge can last I can see these rubbers lasting for a year maybe even more at least on BH. These are cheap rubbers, so if they last for 3-4 months on FH with super heavy hitting (even boosted) that is fantastic value for money. ESN has nothing that could compare in topsheet strength, from DHS you need to buy the national or even above quality and need to boost those perfectly.
You can get Dingtian Young Shine blue sponge and if you boost it perfectly it will be fast AF but not so spinny.
B3 so far for me has 6 month boost at least... maybe 12 months??? How can you top that?

Apart form @longle bro I know @latej bro is like B3 not so much for him... hmmmmm OK but maybe reconsider.
I know I rec good stuff easily but @Attitude B3 I think is stronger than STN if you wanna invest for the summer.
And @ttarc did you try on BH? Do you think the topsheet is fantastic for BH or am I just mad? 40deg black boosted on BH feels great, and I don't like too hard on BH sooooo?

Comment here or on my blog. Maybe more on my blog :3

yeah I don't even doubt the quality of 729's rubbers, even the cheap ones like Bloom are so high quality. For B3, it will definitely shine if you put in some efforts, but in my case I felt that the characteristics differ from B2 line too much that made me modify my techniques quite a bit

 

[Attitude]

I need to write a bit more in depth what happened the last 2 weeks when i have the time.
But i still have the battle 2 bs on my fh now on my atletico power.
After the rubbers set in on the blade i can now play it really well and i dont have any speed issues.
The only advantage i might have with it would be the weight because B2 is definitly one of the heavier rubbers out there.
Maaaaaybe on bh but currently i can do wonders with h3n provincial on bh with the atletico power. But maaaaaaybe i need to tweak something anyway because of the 209g in my hand^^

 

[longle]

I need to write a bit more in depth what happened the last 2 weeks when i have the time.
But i still have the battle 2 bs on my fh now on my atletico power.
After the rubbers set in on the blade i can now play it really well and i dont have any speed issues.
The only advantage i might have with it would be the weight because B2 is definitly one of the heavier rubbers out there.
Maaaaaybe on bh but currently i can do wonders with h3n provincial on bh with the atletico power. But maaaaaaybe i need to tweak something anyway because of the 209g in my hand^^

chop off your handle, play penhold

 

[ttarc]

@Zwill: I think I've answered that already "If it gets some factory/non-factory boosting it could also be a really good BH rubber.". Maybe I should try it again as it is laying around for quite a long time (half a year or so boosted with one layer). One or two league matches to go before the next EJing round (blade and BH rubber)
@Attitude: 209g?!? 60g NH3PTB on both sides?

 

[Attitude]

@Zwill: I think I've answered that already "If it gets some factory/non-factory boosting it could also be a really good BH rubber.". Maybe I should try it again as it is laying around for quite a long time (half a year or so boosted with one layer). One or two league matches to go before the next EJing round (blade and BH rubber)
@Attitude: 209g?!? 60g NH3PTB on both sides?

B2 bs + h3neo
Both boosted + 2 layers of dhs no 15

 

[Zwill]

I have been using B3 39 ° in FH for 3 months. It is very good in spin and control but slower than rubbers like D05. The sponge also feels rather dull and difficult to hit through. However I boosted it with 2 layers of Haifa white oil last week and played it this morning. The rubber feels total different, lively, with good speed, easy to hit through and keeping the same spin and control. It performs pretty much like the D05 except that D05 has a little bit more dwell time, B3 bounces off the blade a little bit quicker. For those who uses B3, I highly recommend boosting it. I am thinking to get the red one as BH later.

I just glued my new 40deg sheet on today to the Cybershape and on my backhand I'm back to V>15 extra which is pretty fast. I dare say around T64ish speed. Anyway the B3 without a doubt is slower but not by much. Maybe 25% slower on a simple bounce test and it does this without any catapult effect and it's moderately sticky. The 6 month old boosted B3 for sure is even faster, probably faster than anything I have.

yeah I don't even doubt the quality of 729's rubbers, even the cheap ones like Bloom are so high quality. For B3, it will definitely shine if you put in some efforts, but in my case I felt that the characteristics differ from B2 line too much that made me modify my techniques quite a bit

I can see your point about the characteristics. Blue sponge is more stable, it has this very slow mechanic that it's very lazy against incoming force. It is not much different than a defensive pips sponge... Hell the DHS C8 blue sponge might be the same as H3 BS... But when you hit from own power and down to wood it becomes transparent and fast. B3 for sure is different, unboosted it's more like orange sponge with much more bounce. B3 unboosted and brand new kind of reminds me of B2 gold with a softer but more elastic topsheet and more speed. With old boost it reminds me of H3 national BS 40deg. I kind of wanna give it more time unboosted since I wanna feel as it breaks in and unboosted it is really great for countering topspin balls since it eats the ball so well.

@Zwill: I think I've answered that already "If it gets some factory/non-factory boosting it could also be a really good BH rubber.". Maybe I should try it again as it is laying around for quite a long time (half a year or so boosted with one layer). One or two league matches to go before the next EJing round (blade and BH rubber)
@Attitude: 209g?!? 60g NH3PTB on both sides?

I doubt there is any factory boosting in it. It has a bad smell but all 729 rubbers reek of this smell. I suppose it's just how they make their rubbers. Every company has their own smell, be it BTY, 729, DHS, Yinhe , I would say ESN is not that obvious, but for sure they have some kind of sweet smell.
I wonder if it keeps the boost as well as I think or if one plays with it it will lose the boost faster. 6 months boost without any glue on the sponge and it was aired out for so long. It kind of makes me think if it can be permaboosted. Or if it keeps boost for 2-3 months even that is pretty amazing.
For sure boosting improves the bottom strength and even the topsheet feels more catapulty.

 

[longle]

the first time I tried B3, it was too soft so I put it in the corner for 2 months. Then I boosted 1 layer then tried it again. It was worse than the first time. The 1 noticeable difference is that it does not have the same linearity as B2 Blue NT, which I dislike.. well if they release something cool like Battle X I'd give it a try 😝

 

[Zwill]

One thing I just got reminded of is that the first time I glue B3 it just doesn't stick to the glue. A stronger wind can blow the rubber off the blade. My glues don't stick to the sponge.
After adding a thin layer of booster the sponge becomes kind of tacky tho.

 

[Lawsy]

the first time I tried B3, it was too soft so I put it in the corner for 2 months. Then I boosted 1 layer then tried it again. It was worse than the first time. The 1 noticeable difference is that it does not have the same linearity as B2 Blue NT, which I dislike.. well if they release something cool like Battle X I'd give it a try 😝

Too soft?
What hardness was this B3?

If B3 was as popular as it deserves and selling by the pallet, I would almost ask if it was fake. Instead, I'll ask if it was heat cycled, or if you used a strange or old glue, or if it was somehow defective. Is any of that a possibility?

Don't get me wrong, I'm not suggesting that you're being disingenuous. I'm just curious as to this result, given my experience, and I'm also very interested in the overall opinion of "the market", so to speak. It leads to the whole question around why I like it vs the other options as well.

For context, in the last year, I've built and tested about 8 or 9 bats, and the following were are the ones I built for myself, each time with the intention of keeping for the longer term:

• Y13 (broke it in then sold to colleague)
  • FH: B2P BS (Black 39)
  • BH: B2P (Red 38)
• T11S (broke it in then sold)
  • FH: B3 (Black 39)
  • B2P Soft (Red 37)
• Y14 Pro (Current setup)
  • FH: B3 (Black 40)
  • Gold Arc 8 (Red 50)

Though not part of this group, I also had a good session with a pair of G1's slapped on an OFF+ blade at a club I visited earlier in the year, and I've used T05 in the distant past (about 8 years ago).

My experience with B3 has been very positive, but it absolutely needs time to break in if you're not hitting as hard as a pro. That being said, I actually think a pro would really like this rubber brand new, as it has a nice mid-range without deviating too far from linear, which continues to extend into a big top-end (the limit of which I'm yet to find with the 40, my shoulder won't let me, unfortunately).

Once broken in, the mechanical grip increases, it linearizes a little, in that the service stays about the same (because that's all top sheet), but the transition from touch speeds to rally pace is smoother. I found that overall control improves as well.

This all makes sense to me because the general consensus is that B3, the top sheet in particular, is slightly too hard, so people give up before breaking it in and ever get to appreciate the better sponge underneath it all, which is really very nice. Once broken in, it does feel as though the overall useful speed range of the B3 sponge is quite a bit wider, such that my B3 40 has a mid-range that is honestly very similar to that of the B2P BS 39, but when B2P BS 39 starts rolling off, B3 40 is really just getting started.

I got sick of trying explain this in words so I decided to graph it while I was quite sick and off work...
Red is B3 40, Blue is B2P BS 39, and green is B3 39.

I slightly bumped down the response of B3 40 at 60 and 70 to separate the lines (by a couple of pixels only).
My "110%" simply represents more of a flatter drive with just about everything I've got (and for context, I'm very tall, I was a pitcher in my younger years, and I've otherwise played ball sports my whole life, so I can hit reasonably hard).

Was this a helpful representation or just lines on a page?

 

[turbozed]

Too soft?
What hardness was this B3?

If B3 was as popular as it deserves and selling by the pallet, I would almost ask if it was fake. Instead, I'll ask if it was heat cycled, or if you used a strange or old glue, or if it was somehow defective. Is any of that a possibility?

Don't get me wrong, I'm not suggesting that you're being disingenuous. I'm just curious as to this result, given my experience, and I'm also very interested in the overall opinion of "the market", so to speak. It leads to the whole question around why I like it vs the other options as well.

For context, in the last year, I've built and tested about 8 or 9 bats, and the following were are the ones I built for myself, each time with the intention of keeping for the longer term:

• Y13 (broke it in then sold to colleague)
  • FH: B2P BS (Black 39)
  • BH: B2P (Red 38)
• T11S (broke it in then sold)
  • FH: B3 (Black 39)
  • B2P Soft (Red 37)
• Y14 Pro (Current setup)
  • FH: B3 (Black 40)
  • Gold Arc 8 (Red 50)

Though not part of this group, I also had a good session with a pair of G1's slapped on an OFF+ blade at a club I visited earlier in the year, and I've used T05 in the distant past (about 8 years ago).

My experience with B3 has been very positive, but it absolutely needs time to break in if you're not hitting as hard as a pro. That being said, I actually think a pro would really like this rubber brand new, as it has a nice mid-range without deviating too far from linear, which continues to extend into a big top-end (the limit of which I'm yet to find with the 40, my shoulder won't let me, unfortunately).

Once broken in, the mechanical grip increases, it linearizes a little, in that the service stays about the same (because that's all top sheet), but the transition from touch speeds to rally pace is smoother. I found that overall control improves as well.

This all makes sense to me because the general consensus is that B3, the top sheet in particular, is slightly too hard, so people give up before breaking it in and ever get to appreciate the better sponge underneath it all, which is really very nice. Once broken in, it does feel as though the overall useful speed range of the B3 sponge is quite a bit wider, such that my B3 40 has a mid-range that is honestly very similar to that of the B2P BS 39, but when B2P BS 39 starts rolling off, B3 40 is really just getting started.

I got sick of trying explain this in words so I decided to graph it while I was quite sick and off work...
Red is B3 40, Blue is B2P BS 39, and green is B3 39.
View attachment 29516

I slightly bumped down the response of B3 40 at 60 and 70 to separate the lines (by a couple of pixels only).
My "110%" simply represents more of a flatter drive with just about everything I've got (and for context, I'm very tall, I was a pitcher in my younger years, and I've otherwise played ball sports my whole life, so I can hit reasonably hard).

Was this a helpful representation or just lines on a page?

I've always thought it was pretty silly to assign a single number to "speed" for a rubber when the speed will differ along the axis of impact force.

Your graph with your subjective impressions of input power and speed are a better framework for understanding rubber behavior.

Still I've always wondered if manufacturers and testers can do a better job of getting objective data to create something similar. I wonder if a high speed camera, sensors, and algorithms could be used to approximate input power and measure speed. Maybe the can just have a guy do the looping or whatever stroke. Then the graph can be filled in by points plotted along the curve.

Obviously there will still be severe limitations because there will be different graphs for different types of strokes and maintaining consistency will be difficult. But I think it'll still be levels more informative to have a curve rather than a completely arbitrary metric like "Speed: 9.1"

 

[latej]

I've always thought it was pretty silly to assign a single number to "speed" for a rubber when the speed will differ along the axis of impact force.

That's also why I'm more interested in the sponge and top-sheet hardness, because that (if I know the sponge type) tells me more than the personal judgments of speed, throw etc. Actually I think we should demand to know for each approved rubber, the top-sheet params - pimple shape, height, radius, distance and top-sheet thickness ;-)

 

[Zwill]

Still I've always wondered if manufacturers and testers can do a better job of getting objective data to create something similar. I wonder if a high speed camera, sensors, and algorithms could be used to approximate input power and measure speed. Maybe the can just have a guy do the looping or whatever stroke. Then the graph can be filled in by points plotted along the curve.

It would be fairly straightforward for a manufacturer to create a "robot arm" and just hit the ball with it with determined forces/angles and with a camera measure the ball's rotation and speed.

Maybe I give too much credit to them but I assume this is how they come up with their speed and spin ratings.

That's also why I'm more interested in the sponge and top-sheet hardness, because that (if I know the sponge type) tells me more than the personal judgments of speed, throw etc. Actually I think we should demand to know for each approved rubber, the top-sheet params - pimple shape, height, radius, distance and top-sheet thickness ;-)

I also would like more objective properties to be listed by manufacturers like a cross section pic at least and maybe a ~weight: g/cm^2. Sometimes manufacturers have an epiphany like Victas comparing V15, V20 and V22 pimple shape and actually giving some specs.

 

[TensorBackhand]

It would be fairly straightforward for a manufacturer to create a "robot arm" and just hit the ball with it with determined forces/angles and with a camera measure the ball's rotation and speed.

Maybe I give too much credit to them but I assume this is how they come up with their speed and spin ratings.


I also would like more objective properties to be listed by manufacturers like a cross section pic at least and maybe a ~weight: g/cm^2. Sometimes manufacturers have an epiphany like Victas comparing V15, V20 and V22 pimple shape and actually giving some specs.
View attachment 29520

This is cool. How did pip height and spacing affect the rubber?

I imagine closer pips give higher throw angle.

Not sure about height.

 

[Lawsy]

I've always thought it was pretty silly to assign a single number to "speed" for a rubber when the speed will differ along the axis of impact force.

Your graph with your subjective impressions of input power and speed are a better framework for understanding rubber behavior.

Still I've always wondered if manufacturers and testers can do a better job of getting objective data to create something similar. I wonder if a high speed camera, sensors, and algorithms could be used to approximate input power and measure speed. Maybe the can just have a guy do the looping or whatever stroke. Then the graph can be filled in by points plotted along the curve.

Obviously there will still be severe limitations because there will be different graphs for different types of strokes and maintaining consistency will be difficult. But I think it'll still be levels more informative to have a curve rather than a completely arbitrary metric like "Speed: 9.1"

As you're probably aware, there have been a few attempts made with high-speed cameras, and there are a few papers on the coefficient of restitution floating around. Most are insufficient for truly isolated the equipment, in my opinion.

In the spreadsheet I threw together to generate my graph, I have two low impact data points specifically to force some logic into the situation (I was sick for a few days, bored, and had a lot of time to think).

• 2.5%
  • low enough for tack to be a 1st order variable
  • High enough that the ball still bounces off a very tacky and very slow rubber
  • Somewhere in the 150mm - 300mm range.
• 5% - 10% to represent a "standardised bounce test", that anyone could, in theory, replicate.
  • Must be high enough that tack is not the dominant variable
  • Low enough that aerodynamic influences are not too significant
  • 1000 - 1500mm should suffice.

There is a whole lot more to it, but you get my general train of thought. The issue is, we would somehow need to all agree on normalisation factor, but let's not go into that here.

But anything is better than what we have now... If you asked Chat GPT to provide an amalgamation of all reviews for a given rubber you would get something like:

The catapult is "uncontrollable" for pushing, but the service is really slow. But then mid-range drives are "just too powerful", though I find it really dead when power-looping. If you hit harder, it suddenly comes alive and is overall the fastest rubber I've ever used, right up until it hits a brick wall and bottoms out..."​

What do you even do with that? The graph looks like this...

... which is obviously impossible, but that's literally the level of contradiction you get if you just jam together a bunch of RS reviews...

Yes, I know, that's a silly exaggeration, but you get the idea...

 

[Lawsy]

It would be fairly straightforward for a manufacturer to create a "robot arm" and just hit the ball with it with determined forces/angles and with a camera measure the ball's rotation and speed.

Maybe I give too much credit to them but I assume this is how they come up with their speed and spin ratings.


I also would like more objective properties to be listed by manufacturers like a cross section pic at least and maybe a ~weight: g/cm^2. Sometimes manufacturers have an epiphany like Victas comparing V15, V20 and V22 pimple shape and actually giving some specs.
View attachment 29520

They 100% perform live testing, as well as simulations, to determine the effects of any changes.

Some of the changes or technology involved in a given iteration, relates to the additives and production environment required in order to achieve a certain result.

Battle 3 is actually a perfect example of this.
Producing a sponge that has a homogenous pores structure, using two distinct size groups (smaller pores surrounding larger ones), is not easy but the practical result does seem effective (represented in what I have graphed previously). It is clearly faster than its predecessor (B2P or N with Blue Sponge) everywhere but service and touchas, which I attribute to added tackiness and the harder top sheet. Plus, it extends further at maximum input. Or to put it more accurately, the negative gradient of B3's CoR with respect to impact velocity, remains more linear and has a more gradual roll-off, than B2P BS of the same hardness.

So what they have achieved is a legitimate and significant improvement.

It's just a shame that more people aren't spending the time playing with it and testing the various hardness options, because I think a lot more people would like it if they did...
---------
As an aside (though I'm sure this is not very practical), it would be very interesting to take the B2P BS top sheet and apply it to the B3 sponge... Does anyone have money to burn and the known how to do this? lol...

 

[longle]

Too soft?
What hardness was this B3?

If B3 was as popular as it deserves and selling by the pallet, I would almost ask if it was fake. Instead, I'll ask if it was heat cycled, or if you used a strange or old glue, or if it was somehow defective. Is any of that a possibility?

Don't get me wrong, I'm not suggesting that you're being disingenuous. I'm just curious as to this result, given my experience, and I'm also very interested in the overall opinion of "the market", so to speak. It leads to the whole question around why I like it vs the other options as well.

For context, in the last year, I've built and tested about 8 or 9 bats, and the following were are the ones I built for myself, each time with the intention of keeping for the longer term:

• Y13 (broke it in then sold to colleague)
  • FH: B2P BS (Black 39)
  • BH: B2P (Red 38)
• T11S (broke it in then sold)
  • FH: B3 (Black 39)
  • B2P Soft (Red 37)
• Y14 Pro (Current setup)
  • FH: B3 (Black 40)
  • Gold Arc 8 (Red 50)

Though not part of this group, I also had a good session with a pair of G1's slapped on an OFF+ blade at a club I visited earlier in the year, and I've used T05 in the distant past (about 8 years ago).

My experience with B3 has been very positive, but it absolutely needs time to break in if you're not hitting as hard as a pro. That being said, I actually think a pro would really like this rubber brand new, as it has a nice mid-range without deviating too far from linear, which continues to extend into a big top-end (the limit of which I'm yet to find with the 40, my shoulder won't let me, unfortunately).

Once broken in, the mechanical grip increases, it linearizes a little, in that the service stays about the same (because that's all top sheet), but the transition from touch speeds to rally pace is smoother. I found that overall control improves as well.

This all makes sense to me because the general consensus is that B3, the top sheet in particular, is slightly too hard, so people give up before breaking it in and ever get to appreciate the better sponge underneath it all, which is really very nice. Once broken in, it does feel as though the overall useful speed range of the B3 sponge is quite a bit wider, such that my B3 40 has a mid-range that is honestly very similar to that of the B2P BS 39, but when B2P BS 39 starts rolling off, B3 40 is really just getting started.

I got sick of trying explain this in words so I decided to graph it while I was quite sick and off work...
Red is B3 40, Blue is B2P BS 39, and green is B3 39.
View attachment 29516

I slightly bumped down the response of B3 40 at 60 and 70 to separate the lines (by a couple of pixels only).
My "110%" simply represents more of a flatter drive with just about everything I've got (and for context, I'm very tall, I was a pitcher in my younger years, and I've otherwise played ball sports my whole life, so I can hit reasonably hard).

Was this a helpful representation or just lines on a page?

thanks for all the scientific information but also sorry that I could not get all of it actually what you feel is the most important, my overall feeling of B3 is much softer than B2 NT Blue sponge, which can be the combination of the sponge and topsheet. Sometimes the overall feeling when you hit the ball is different than the numbers

 

[Lawsy]

thanks for all the scientific information but also sorry that I could not get all of it actually what you feel is the most important, my overall feeling of B3 is much softer than B2 NT Blue sponge, which can be the combination of the sponge and topsheet. Sometimes the overall feeling when you hit the ball is different than the numbers

Could be the particular blade combination as well.

So which hardness was it?

 

[longle]

Could be the particular blade combination as well.

So which hardness was it?

I've always used H40 for all of my Chinese rubbers (only in the last few months I switched to H39)