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Passive shots / reaction to incoming spin, still reacts to incoming spin fairly highly so a passive shot using the opponents spin and trying to throw it back to them needs care.
Whatever your opponent does: it is important, that you do a short active movement with your hand - to determine the direction ion the ball. If you do this, you will be able to bring back each ball on the table with the Dignics 09C.

The only problem I have with the D09C is, when I try to attack fast with my forehand, because I have a more traditional forehand with a long movement of my arm. The D09C has sooo much grip that it bites the ball and with a long arm-movement it is not so easy (for me) to find the right amount of power to bring the ball on the table. With a little too much power or too much opened blade the ball lands behind the table. Therefore I prefer the D09C on my backhand. Here it is really near perfection (for me). If someone has a more "modern" forehand-technique with short movements, the D09C will be a very good (but crazy expansive) option for both sides
 
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Whatever your opponent does: it is important, that you do a short active movement with your hand - to determine the direction ion the ball. If you do this, you will be able to bring back each ball on the table with the Dignics 09C.

The only problem I have with the D09C is, when I try to attack fast with my forehand, because I have a more traditional forehand with a long movement of my arm. The D09C has sooo much grip that it bites the ball and with a long arm-movement it is not so easy (for me) to find the right amount of power to bring the ball on the table. With a little too much power or too much opened blade the ball lands behind the table. Therefore I prefer the D09C on my backhand. Here it is really near perfection (for me). If someone has a more "modern" forehand-technique with short movements, the D09C will be a very good (but crazy expansive) option for both sides
It is not about stroke size, it is about coming over the top of the ball. I agree with a lot of what you have written about D09C but I don't agree it suits a particular technique or playing level for any reason other than price.

I don't think any player at any level will have a problem with D09C. But like Tenergy 05 if you don't play over the ball consistently you will send the ball long when you hit powerfully. In my opinion it is actually easier to hir consistently powerfully with D09C because the tack gives you more time to compensate while other Butterlfy rubbers require more precision from the start.
 
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Moreover does d09c pair better with inner carbon blades like long5 or outer carbon like viscaria?
 
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In my tests up to now I have better control with the D09C on the "hipnotic" outer carbon blade than with the Harimoto SZLC inner carbon, but this may be caused to the higher speed of the Harimoto and not to the place of the composite layer.
 
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The colours in the photo are not correct

Care to share some pics so we can compare with the official ones?

The colours in the photo are not correct as I played with the settings in post to better show the detail.
I estimate that this D05 has between 100-120 hrs of table time. About 30hrs of which were on the robot. Plus I've switched it between blades twice. I've also done the cooking oil thing a couple of times. I think that's why the areas of most wear don't show up like those in your link.
The clear stuff around the logo is due to sweat and dirt.
I can't tell how much the overall performance is down but more importantly, the bounce and grip over the playing area is still even more or less.
Note that the D05 is durable given normal care but, in my experience, it is fragile. The first copy I had, I accidentally hit against the table. It took me a while to figure it out but the sponge had split causing all sorts of problems during play.

Dignics 05 (2) ISO100 F3.5_57GB.jpg

Split sponge on D05

D05 split.jpg
 
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Thanks. Looks amazing for pushing 120 hours. I put in a similar amount of time in a year so that's a good reference.

The edge is holding up pretty well. One early review in China says the T05H is similar in that regard. T05 would have looked like the Thousand Islands.

The sponge splitting is new though. Did it split all the way from topsheet to sponge?
 
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The sponge splitting is new though. Did it split all the way from topsheet to sponge?

No. The topsheet looked ok. That's why it took me a while to figure out that the rubber was damaged and that I wasn't simply playing badly.
 
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Is d09c as durable as d05?

I’ve been practicing with D09C for about 1 1/2 months with a table and robot, and during lockdown for about 8 weeks hitting the ball against a wall using the dinning table!!!! So near on 3 1/2months, averaging about 1 hr a day, so 90+ hours give or take.
for the last 1 1/2 months solely backhand training.
so when practicing FH serves, pendulum, reverse pendulum and ghost , your index changes position as necessary for the appropriate serve grip / personnel grip preference. I have noticed that the D09C surface has dulled significantly, due to finger ware and moisture. Doesn’t seem to have affected performance, discolouration is a usual occurrence from finger position anyway, at least I think every BH rubber I’ve used does the same, it just seems more ‘obvious’.
So far the rubber is still playing well, haven’t noticed any change in performance.

I can’t compare to D05 though.

Today I used it for FH serves as a comparison against the H3 Nat (un-boosted) that I’m using on FH.
As for BH the extra bounce makes really short serves a tad harder, but for the ghost serve, which I’m still learning and nowhere near proficient at !!! It was actually easier than with the H3 Nat!!!! Spin was better and more consistent. I then went through pendulum and reverse pendulum serves, consistency was better, spin equal to H3 Nat and control seemed easier !!!!!

Now I was really thinking !!!!

What about FH top spin and loop ??? I’ve been quite regimental during the last 1 1/2 months and only played the occasional FH with the 09C, concentrating on the H3 Nat, after 2no 3 minute forehand drills i was very happy, yep it’s faster but still controlled.

Maybe my forehand is improving, due to almost daily training with the robot, because far less shots over sailed and I felt more in control, previously I didn’t really feel in control that’s why I decided to use it on BH side. Maybe today was just a good day!!!!

This evening I took off the un boosted H3 Nat and replaced it with a sheet of boosted H3 Nat. So tomorrow can’t come quick enough !!!!!!!
 
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dignics 09c (boosted) vs h3 blue sponge national (properly boosted)

Boosting techique:
09c: 4 thin layer of falco tempo long with 4 layers of medium viscosity glue. The formula I like as I've been boosting dignics for a while and tried different combination.
h3nat (41 degree, 2.1mm) : 4 layers of sea moon with 5 layer of high viscosity glue. The formula that pro uses.


Speed: A lot of people always care about the speed from a straight line point of view but lots of people keep forgetting that speed = distant travel / time.
For d09c the time aspect is lower compare to h3 but for h3 since the throw angle is lower the distant travel is significantly lower than 09c. At full power h3nat is definitely faster compare to 09c.

Short game: is pretty much the same.

Ease of use:
D09c is definitely easier to generate pace and spin.

When playing with h3 you need to play it as an extension of your hand, you need to have that snap wrist to achieve the maximum spin. This is something dan do not have; thus his video is very inaccurate (he also don't know how to properly boost h3 that's for sure). However, for d09c you do not need to do the wrist snapping thing to achieve maximum spin. Doing the wrist snapping thing will only make the ball very uncontrollable.

H3 will weirdly go to the net if you forgot to do the snap wrist thing during your stroke. I am used to play with euro rubber so sometimes i forgot to loosen my wrist.

Counter looping:
Both are easy but h3 have this extra gear that d09c do not have. As i mentioned from my previous post if my opponent do a very spinny opening. I can wait the ball to come down THEN loop it with full force (XX love to do that, it looks easy but it's actually a really difficult shot). I can do the same thing with 09c but not as confident with h3 nat.



TL;DR h3 is spinner, faster at higher gear, slower at lower gear. However d09c is easier to use and it last significantly longer than h3 national. The boosting effect on 09c is permanent. For h3 nat, you either bubble it in 2 weeks or the boosting effect will be gone. H3 nat is not worth it, not the price not the hassle.
 
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Post this in the thread that has been active the last few days.
 
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Cheers for the post ‘scrubplayer’

i’ve only ever boosted 3 rubbers, so interesting to see how you do it.

read a few articles and watched the occasional video about boosting.

1st attempt was Standard H3, 2.1mm Red sheet, 1layer of Normal glue, 3 layers of FLT booster. Worked well domed up, but the dome didn’t seem to want to reduce, even 7 days after the last coat of booster was applied. Eventually got it on a blade really had to weight it down, a clamp would have been better, edges wanted to peel.

2nd attempt was Aibiss which had 1 layer glue, 2 layers FLT booster, photos in the ‘new rubber Aibiss’ thread. Good dome, made the rubber slightly softer and faster.

3rd was H3 Nat blue sponge, 2.2mm, this rubber had been played in, 3 months old. Boosted as the Aibiss.
made the rubber / sponge feel limp, no doming effect, maybe it domed by 4 - 8 mm max didn’t seem to make any difference to feel and speed etc, I was quite disappointed!!!!!!!!! But maybe I just got it totally wrong!!!

A few questions -

1) is the sea moon better for the DHS type sponges?
2) medium viscosity glue - such as ?
3) why apply a layer of glue after each coat of booster? Do you let the booster completely dry before applying the layer of glue?
4) how long does the whole procedure last? Including the flattening out process.
5) Does the sheet return to a completely flat condition?

many thanks!,,
 
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Cheers for the post ‘scrubplayer’

i’ve only ever boosted 3 rubbers, so interesting to see how you do it.

read a few articles and watched the occasional video about boosting.

1st attempt was Standard H3, 2.1mm Red sheet, 1layer of Normal glue, 3 layers of FLT booster. Worked well domed up, but the dome didn’t seem to want to reduce, even 7 days after the last coat of booster was applied. Eventually got it on a blade really had to weight it down, a clamp would have been better, edges wanted to peel.

2nd attempt was Aibiss which had 1 layer glue, 2 layers FLT booster, photos in the ‘new rubber Aibiss’ thread. Good dome, made the rubber slightly softer and faster.

3rd was H3 Nat blue sponge, 2.2mm, this rubber had been played in, 3 months old. Boosted as the Aibiss.
made the rubber / sponge feel limp, no doming effect, maybe it domed by 4 - 8 mm max didn’t seem to make any difference to feel and speed etc, I was quite disappointed!!!!!!!!! But maybe I just got it totally wrong!!!

A few questions -

1) is the sea moon better for the DHS type sponges?
2) medium viscosity glue - such as ?
3) why apply a layer of glue after each coat of booster? Do you let the booster completely dry before applying the layer of glue?
4) how long does the whole procedure last? Including the flattening out process.
5) Does the sheet return to a completely flat condition?

many thanks!,,

1) is the sea moon better for the DHS type sponges? Yes, falco is too weak and doesn't work on dhs rubber
2) medium viscosity glue - such as ? Revolution medium viscosity. For h3 nat i use No15 which is thicker.
3) why apply a layer of glue after each coat of booster? Do you let the booster completely dry before applying the layer of glue? The extra layer of glue acts as an extra sponge to better control and better bounce.
4) how long does the whole procedure last? Including the flattening out process. For dignics, I first cut the rubber, then I apply the booster in the middle only. That way the rubber won't curl up at the edge making gluing not a problem. For dhs, No15 is really strong; it's designed for boosted rubber so it's np sticking onto the paddle. How long the booster dry depends on the temp and area. I live in SF so it's pretty dry up here, booster dry within 6 hours.
5) Does the sheet return to a completely flat condition? see my reply on 4) it doesn't matter, I got ways to glue it; no need to wait days/weeks to flat.
 
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1) is the sea moon better for the DHS type sponges? Yes, falco is too weak and doesn't work on dhs rubber
2) medium viscosity glue - such as ? Revolution medium viscosity. For h3 nat i use No15 which is thicker.
3) why apply a layer of glue after each coat of booster? Do you let the booster completely dry before applying the layer of glue? The extra layer of glue acts as an extra sponge to better control and better bounce.
4) how long does the whole procedure last? Including the flattening out process. For dignics, I first cut the rubber, then I apply the booster in the middle only. That way the rubber won't curl up at the edge making gluing not a problem. For dhs, No15 is really strong; it's designed for boosted rubber so it's np sticking onto the paddle. How long the booster dry depends on the temp and area. I live in SF so it's pretty dry up here, booster dry within 6 hours.
5) Does the sheet return to a completely flat condition? see my reply on 4) it doesn't matter, I got ways to glue it; no need to wait days/weeks to flat.

Cheers!!! One day I’ll give it a try, when I get another sheet of DHS H3 Nat!!
 
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Dignics BTY greatest mistake.

Tenergy is bty greatest success, unboost it will play well for 2~3 weeks before performance drop. If you boost it, it will play superb but after a week the rubber is completely dead. No other rubber feels like t05 and you are force to buy $40/$50/$60/$70 per sheet as times goes on.

Dignics on the other hand. The longevity is outrageous. The sponge WILL NOT die, there is almost no performance drop at all (at least i can't tell, and I am a pretty good player myself). Boosting(I only use falco tempo long) the rubber WILL NOT cause the rubber to wear out faster. It will sotfens up the rubber and makes it plays better. It's more stable compare to tenergy, the sponge last longer than any other rubber out there times two, the top sheet also lasts longer. I've been playing dignics for over a year. The only reason I change rubber every 6 month is because I chip my rubber badly when I hit the table, but performance-wise (boosted) it stays consistent.

If I put on my old rubber and do I blind test i can't tell which side is the newer rubber.

BTY deserves my praise on this rubber, it might not do good on sales because casuals only sees the pricetag and think to him/herself (oh i can buy 3x xioms), but dignics can do more and last longer.

BTY should've use the spring sponge that dies faster or a less quality topsheet so it wear out faster to boost sales. They just made the lexus of rubber.

/thread
 
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